Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,804

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    JFP, excellent advice as always. I use the exact method you use on my Acura MDX (drains 1/3 of it each time every other oil change). You know how notorous Honda transmissions are.
  2. Ahsai
    Do'h!
  3. Ahsai
    That's good to know, Lauren. A simple and short diagnostic tree.
  4. Ahsai
    Yea, you should have a much better chance diagnosing it correctly with Durametric. The freeze frame data maybe referring to a pending P0120 code that got tripped when the engine was still cold but CEL not turned on yet. Some codes require multiple tripping before the CEL is turned on.
  5. Ahsai
    Ok, that makes a lot more sense. You need it to show real-time data. If the above is accurate, that means the code was tripped at cold start, even before the system goes to close loop. Are you sure the MAF electrical connection is seated properly?
  6. Ahsai
    Wow, I cannot even imagine how the data can be off by that much. I suggest you use another scanner (Durametric will be the best) since this one will only confuse you more. A little lumpy idle after oil cap removal is completely normal though since it creates a slight vacuum leak. I tend to agree vacuum leak is the number one suspect and will definitely eliminate that possibility before replacing the MAF. If you can read MAF data, you can do a snap throttle test, correlate rpm with MAF data and see if the MAF signal is strong enough at higher rpm.
  7. Ahsai
    Your engine was not fully warmed up (coolant at 64F) and the fuel system was not even in closed loop. Can you repeat the test with engine fully warmed up and at idle i.e., car not moving? Also any MAF reading?
  8. Ahsai
    The matco scanner should be able to read MAF real-time reading. For a 3.2L, I think it should read around 4 g/s at idle (~700rpm) after fully warmed up and no electrical load on the engine (e.g., a/c). The rough idle suggests vacuum leak though. You can also check the short-term fuel trim at idle and see what the DME thinks.
  9. Ahsai
    Have you tried cleaning the idle stabilizer (if your engine has one)? 10 min may be too short for other codes to show up though.
  10. Ahsai
    Oh and yes, a generic OBDii reader will also work. Depending on the code(s) retrieved, you can decide if you need Durametric for more in-depth diagnostic. Could be as simple as some sensors you disconnected not properly seated afterwards.
  11. Ahsai
    There are literally hundreds of codes that can trip the CEL so it's difficult to speculate. As a stopgap solution, you can find someone who has an Android phone and get this dongle http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows-Android/dp/B009RLB4Z8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1388867860&sr=8-3&keywords=Bluetooth+obdii and download the free version of the Torque app to read the code(s). The paid version ($5) allows you to monitor and plot lots of sensor readings. It's no Durametric but it's way better than driving the car for a month or two without knowing what caused the CEL. Just my 2 cents.
  12. Ahsai
    Thanks for the update and good job fixing it.
  13. Ahsai
    Yea, understood.
  14. Ahsai
    I guess it should if you set it to 10A or 50A. 2A is probably not enough.
  15. Ahsai
    +1 for Snapon but they are not cheap for general diy'ers. CDI and precision instruments are good alternatives. Similar quality at significantly lower prices. A few more points to add: I like the flex head version and found A few degrees helps a lot in some situations. Also I prefer a shorter one with narrower range, especially if you use it under the car with limited space when you use jack stands. 5-75 ftlb works great for me. 100-150 ftlb ones are much longer. For wheels and suspension, I love the split beam type 1/2" 50-250 ftlb (flex head), which is rugged and doesn't need reset. Std issue in most tire shops.
  16. Ahsai
    It's actually very simple. To get an accurate reading, the computer needs to make sure most of the oil has returned to the oil pan before it takes the measurement. The speed of oil return is a function of the oil temp and when was the last time the engine ran. Colder oil takes longer to return to the pan hence the wait timer.
  17. Ahsai
    I dont know a way to query the mileage from the instrument cluster directly but Durametric can display the operating hrs from which you could approx the actual mileage. Should be obvious if 100k miles are missing http://www.durametric.com/usedporschebuyersguide.aspx Durametric can also activate the instrument cluster for functional check but I don't remember if lights up all the segments of the odometer during the test though.
  18. Ahsai
    I asked because if it's clicking, at least there's power supplied meaning the circuit is probably fine. If it's not even clicking, either the part is not correct or it's not working, or there is simply no power to it. +1 on using genuine factory part or at least OEM part. Evap diagnostic itself is tricky enough that you don't really need another variable to deal with.You can remove the connection and test the two pins (one pin should have ~14v +ve from the battery when engine is running. The DME supplies ground pulse to the other pin to activate the valve). You can use an LED in series with a resistor (say 500 ohm) to test the two pins. If the LED is blinking, at least you know there's power and DME control. Note LED has polarity though so you need to connect it with the right polarity. To test the valves, just use a 9v battery to supply power to it. They should click when power is applied. The valve should be closed when no power is applied and open when power is applied. You can test that functionality as well even though the code is electrical in nature like JFP said.
  19. Ahsai
    That is not the original coolant, the 1999 stuff would have been green. The pink stuff dates to 2004-05 introduction. Right and since his coolant is not pink, there may still be some old green coolant mixed in there. It's hard to tell how much though from the photo.
  20. Ahsai
    Looks good and you're welcome. I would still recommend a complete coolant change sometime if you still have original coolant from '99 though.
  21. Ahsai
    If you didn't request complete coolant change, only 2 gal will be drained when replacing the water pump and there are total of 6 gal in the system. So if the original coolant was there and they added 2 gal of 50/50 diluted pink coolant, that color looks about right. The numbers above are for a manual car so they may be diff for your tip but you get my point.
  22. Ahsai
    Is the new EVAP purge valve clicking?
  23. Ahsai
    Can't see from your photo but there's an unattached plug there for the phone option. If memory serves, it contains all-time hot 12v, switched 12v, radio mute input, and ground. A good place to tap power from for accessories.
  24. Ahsai
    Well done and hope that was it!
  25. Ahsai
    Good call replacing the plugs. How many miles on the plugs? They don't look too new judging from the rounded prongs.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.