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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Possibly; high pressure fuel pump issues are fairly well known, fuel intrusion from the DFI is leading to cylinder wall scoring issues, and more importantly there have been some multiple reports of abnormal cam chain wear. If the chain fails, the end result would be the same as an IMS failure. Argh, that's disappointing to say the least. Thanks for the info. I was hoping the 9A1 a bullet proof engine :(
  2. Ahsai
    Congrats and enjoy the new engine! Do they know what's the cause of the scratches? You probably don't care at this point anyway :) JFP, are any of these 9A1 problems even close to catastrophic like M96 IMSB?
  3. Ahsai
    All well within specs. Have you tried clearing the code like JFP suggested?
  4. Ahsai
    Yea, 1.00 FRA is definitely strange for P1126 like JFP explained. Any freeze frame data you can retrieve before you reset it? That may give us more clue under what condition the code was tripped.
  5. Ahsai
    RKAT values are in % so 0% and 0.58% are very small numbers and are normal. What are your FRA values on both banks? Checked oil filler tube for leaks? Usually O2 sensors have their own codes. Were the readings taken at engine at idle (looks like so based on the MAF reading) after fully warmed up and a/c off?
  6. Ahsai
    Sorry to hear your ordeal. This is the first time I hear about 997.2 engine problem and Porsche asking dealer to disassemble and even repair the engine. This was unheard of for 996s. Anyway, glad that you're under warranty and they should take care of you. Curious to see what they find.
  7. Ahsai
    It's way up above the rear left wheel. Mush easier if you remove the wheel.
  8. Ahsai
    Congrats and good job fixing it once and for all.
  9. Ahsai
    I hear you. I wish they had a bluetooth smartphone version.
  10. Ahsai
    Have you checked the oil filler tube and cap for leak? With durametric, you can log coolant temp, intake temp, all 4 O2 readings, MAF, TRA/FRA, cam deviations, and misfires on all cylinders.
  11. Ahsai
    That's interesting. Based on the thread I sent you above seems these door locks can be finicky. People even talked about tricks to open the door from the outside by pushing the handle firmrly toward the car first. The pdf also talks about when tightening those two bolts for the barrel, you need to push teh barrel toward the car first or something like that....
  12. Ahsai
    Congrats! So after removing the lock barrel, how did you open the door? Also, did you find out what was wrong?
  13. Ahsai
    This link may be helpful http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/porsche-cayenne-forum/763010-door-lock-central-locking-not-working-on-one-door-please-help.html In post #12 there's a pdf describing the door lock and the two holes you mentioned. Not sure if it's applicable to your model though and of course all the decriptions assume the door is already opened. On pg 13 of the pdf, it describes a small cable attached to the outside door handle. Wonder if that cable can be used to open the door.
  14. Ahsai
    OK, got it now. Not sure if that will work. Stupid question, does this apply to your model http://blogs.cars.com/kickingtires/2011/07/how-do-you-unlock-a-2011-porsche-cayenne-hybrid.html
  15. Ahsai
    Yea, undersand your problems. Even if you removed the rear door, the B pillar is in the way and there's no opening to connect to the front door. Check out the video at 7:48s here, which shows the B pillar is solid (of course hollow inside but no holes). It also shows how to remove the rear door (the 3 bolts like you said). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdt4XCuMIp8
  16. Ahsai
    Also, the other thing is need to make sure the lock actuato is in unlocked position to rule out the possibility it is in the locked position and nothing is unhooked. Any power supplied to the door? Fuse to door lock acutator ok?
  17. Ahsai
    Sorry to hear your ordeal. Sounds like a very difficult problem. Sounds like the bowden cable unhooks from the inside door handle? If so, maybe you can remove the inside door handle, fish the cable and pull on it to unlock?
  18. Ahsai
    And delivered to my door!
  19. Ahsai
    Thanks, guys. Indeed excellent oil and I've been it on my 996 since 2007! The link shows a new label hence my question. I buy themin 5L bottles so the cost is ~$8/L. Not bad at all...cheaper than Mobil 1?? http://www.amazon.com/Motul-007250-4PK-X-cess-Synthetic-Gasoline/dp/B004LEZQ3M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1390255514&sr=8-2&keywords=motul+5w-40
  20. Ahsai
    Hi JFP, I assume the latest Motul xcess 5w-40 is still good? It has ACEA A3/B4 and Porsche A40 ratings. http://www.motul.com/za/en/products/oils-lubricants/8100-x-cess-5w40 Thanks
  21. Ahsai
    Thanks for the update. No worries about the FRA and TRA, they will trip the CEL if they are significantly out-of-spec (i think about +/-25% from the designed value).
  22. Ahsai
    You're welcome. Btw, I also use Lexol for the leather and I'm pretty happy with it.
  23. Ahsai
    This one looks pretty good too http://www.amazon.com/Winters-Pressure-Internals-Display-Accuracy/dp/B0087V09H8 You can also get a digitlal one at a higher price http://www.amazon.com/Meters-PDMM01-Digital-Manometer-Measure/dp/B005FU5HFI/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1389551297&sr=1-1&keywords=Manometer This digital one is only $48 but with only one review http://www.amazon.com/Large-Digital-Manometer-Pressure-Meter/dp/B00B3PUIOO/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1389575957&sr=8-10&keywords=Manometer
  24. Ahsai
    I like the 303 aerospace protectant. It gives the right kind of shine imho. Not greasy and looks natural. http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW
  25. Ahsai
    I know they are on the fragile side. Have you ever sent out an ATF sample for testing? UOA labs typically do it, and sometimes the results can be a little scary.............. :eek: No UOA yet but the used fluid I drain still looks red and new. That's good enough for me.
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