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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Going by memory, the engine is ~350lb and the transmission ~130lb so most of the weight is on the engine. You want to support at least the two main reinforced parts on the engine case (shown in the photo). Also try to support the transmission (right below the axle flanges) if possible.
  2. Ahsai
    Yes, "Engine temp" is measured from the coolant temp sensor plugged into the "front coolant console" that's between the engine and the engine support bracket.
  3. Ahsai
    I have only seen the ports being cleaned from the bottom with the headers removed. This link may be helpful.
  4. Ahsai
    Removing the SAI should not affect the normal close loop control. Have you verified the fuel pressure? Are the coolant temp and intake air temp reading where you expect them to be? Can you switch back to the stock throttle body? It's so strange the injection time goes down as the rpm goes up. Almost looks like the DME is still in open loop control.
  5. Ahsai
    Perhaps just drive it for a few days and see what error codes come up?
  6. Ahsai
    Also, how about the FRA and RKAT vaules of bank2? Ideal value of FRA is 1.00 and RKAT is 0.0%
  7. Ahsai
    Welcome to Renntech. Have you tried resetting the DME (by clearing the codes) using Durametric? Did you really mean the O2 sensor reading is stuck at 0.86 and not moving at all? Does it even swing back and forth between 0.2v to 0.8v? You may also want to re-calibrate the e-gas by turning the key to the last position before crank and leave it there for 60s or so (with foot off the gas pedal), then turn the ignition off and wait for 10s.
  8. Ahsai
    Looks like it's all ready for the track!
  9. Ahsai
    Agree with John about using 5w-40 oil. To get peace of mind, it would be good to send the oil for used oil analysis once you have 3~4k miles on the oil. The UOA will tell you if you have any coolant in the oil (which could create the sludge you mentioned).
  10. Ahsai
    Are you guys talking about this hole? It's higher than the CPS though so how did the CPS bolt get into there? I also include a pic of the webbing of the engine block in case it helps describing the location txhokie4life described.
  11. Ahsai
    You will need a scanner. Could be a generic OBDII scanner (cheap wi-fi or bluetooth dongle) or Porsche specific ones such as Durametric.
  12. Ahsai
    Feel free to come back and post along the way. I don't know how I missed that. You mentioned the CEL was ON. Did you read the error codes?
  13. Ahsai
    Coil should not create tapping noise. It would help if you can upload a sound clip. In the meantime, I would suggest changing out the pressure sender and replace all the coils (and spark plugs too while you are there). Then check the oil filter and drop the oil pan to check the oil pick up tube.
  14. Ahsai
    Intermittent oil pressure warning light could be the oil pressure sender. Not too difficult to replace.
  15. Ahsai
    How's the oil level? Did the oil pressure recover while you were driving home? A failed coil should not cause oil warning light but sounds like you need a new set of coils anyway.
  16. Ahsai
    Seems like you have gone through most suspects. How about the ignition coils and fuel filter (if you have an inline one)? What are the codes? Next step is probably a Durametric scan to get more vitals. Then check the fuel pressure at cold start and after engine shut down (see if pressure holds). Possible you have leaky fuel injectors that upset the cold start fuel-air mixture. Another possibility is a sticky/leaky evap purge valve.
  17. Ahsai
    Have you tried cleaning your throttle body, MAF and idle stabilizer (if it has one)? If you have access to Durametric and can get RKAT (or TRA) reading and FRA reading, those may give us more clues. Also a good idea to check for intake air leak (by hooking up onto a smoke machine).
  18. Ahsai
    I don't think the sending unit wires can be swapped because they are of different sizes. I don't recall the Bentley manual has any troubleshooting steps about this problem. Even if it does, I don't think it will be more than what you can get out from this forum. Once you inspect your oil filter and oil pick-up (both very simple to do), you will have a lot more info to decide on the next steps. I would add sending the oil for UOA to make sure it's not contaminated by oil and also verify metal wear. If indeed the internal bearing tolerance is getting so bad that it doesn't hold oil pressure, accelerated metal wear should also show up.
  19. Ahsai
    Are you losing coolant? I think you should check your oil filter first then the oil pick up mesh (with the oil sump pan dropped).
  20. Ahsai
    Could you remove the pistons first? Should have better access to the dust seal.
  21. Ahsai
    LOL
  22. Ahsai
    Btw, I think you just invented a perfect anti-theft technique ? Even if someone swaps in their own immo and DME, still won't get the engine to fire.
  23. Ahsai
    Congrats! I would not have figured it out for sure haha
  24. Ahsai
    That's it! Thanks a lot RFM!
  25. Ahsai
    Thanks Loren for looking it up for me. However, that's not it though. The screw is a short sheet metal screw with a round phillips head.
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