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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    They look great! However, the real test is still a load test. Is that a capacitative battery tester that let's you input the CCA of the battery under test? I have one of those and they give accurate results even if the battery is depleted.
  2. Ahsai
    Oh, only 3km one way driving. That's not enough to keep the battery charged even if everything is healthy, especially if you don't drive it everyday. I hope you keep a set of jumper cables in your car.
  3. Ahsai
    You can bring just the batteries to the shop unless you want them to test your alternator as well. They don't need your car to test just the batteries. Note that even if your batteries are "new", if they are not kept fully charged at all times, they will discharge quickly and cannot be revived due to sulfation, which is non-reversible.
  4. Ahsai
    Do you have any local shops that would do a load test on your battery to verify its healthy?
  5. Ahsai
    With that tester, you can see it in the cabin as it happens. One common failing alternator pattern is you get 14v at cold start then as you drive and the engine warms up, the alternator output wil keep decreasing to 12v or so, usally not lower than that because the battery is still supplying at least 12v. If it's only 9.99v, I suspect your battery may have a bad cell. Would be easiest if you can at least eliminate the battery as the problem.
  6. Ahsai
    250mL per caliper is more than enough so 1L total.
  7. Ahsai
    You're welcome and good luck tracking down your problem!
  8. Ahsai
    Great. Don't let its low price fool you. It's calibrated and very precise. It measures voltage to 2 decimal places (I verified with a very accurate Fluke multimeter). It lets you read the voltage before you unlock the car. That's important because once unlocked, all the interior lights and electronic modules start to draw current so you can't get an accurate "at rest" voltage reading of the battery.The "at rest" voltage tells you the state of charge of the battery 12.6v = fully charged, 12.3v = 50% charged, etc. With this, you can test the theory of your navi charger and other elect chargers draining the battery. Also, you can read the instantaneous voltage when you crank, anything lower than 9.6v means your battery is weak. When you turned on your elect consumers like a/c, headlights, heaters, etc, you can also read the voltage accurately. As mentioned before, 13.5-14.5v is normal. For the price of a few cups of coffee, I'm blown away by its usefulness and quality.
  9. Ahsai
    Whatever socketas you use, as long as they are hot at all times, they are always connected to the battery and will drain it like John said. I highly recommand this tester that plugs in the cig outlet so you can see the voltage through the car windows when you walk up to your car before unlocking it. It uses negligible power so it won't drain your battery even left plugged in at all times. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVWDU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_29?qid=1396214198&sr=8-29π=SY200_QL40 It also tests your battery and alternator.
  10. Ahsai
    Very likely. Is your cigarette power outlet poweded at all times or power will be cut after some timeout after you lock the car?
  11. Ahsai
    In that case, you need to track down the drain first. Otherwise your battery will keep draining and alternator keeps stressing out recharging the depleted battery. Very bad for both the battery and the alternator. If you still want to DIY, it will be quite involving. The easiest is to put a low current DC clamp meter on one of the battery cables to check for current drawn after you lock the car. This one is great http://www.amazon.com/685-Amps-Current-Probe-Frequency/dp/B000JFHMRA This way you don't break the circuit and restart the electronic modules. Just wait for 1/2hr to 1hr and check the reading again after all modules have gone to sleep. If you see a drain of tens of mA or more, you need to check the fuses.
  12. Ahsai
    Well, if it's working don't worry about it. May want to get your money back from the Porsche center :)
  13. Ahsai
    What's the voltage reading if you turn on the headlight, the a/c, and the rear defroster at the same time during idling? If it's below 13.5v, your alternator is likely bad. That's a crude load test before you can get the alternator tested properly at the shop. Have you tried to test for battery drain after car is locked? One of your posts said the battery dropped to 11.3v overnight. Either the battery was bad/not fully charged or you have a parasitic drain.
  14. Ahsai
    You're welcome and do let us know. Good job testing as much as you can and not just throw parts at it.
  15. Ahsai
    Congrats and glad you get it sorted out! Just curious, even fuse A8 is blown, the license plate lights should still work if you turn on the headlights since they also get power directly from the light switch. Have you tried that?
  16. Ahsai
    Ok, I think the next step is to install two new precat sensors and see if that cures those O2 sensor codes. The 0v measurement between the heater wires may be fooling us as the ground is provided by a transistor in the DME and perhaps it won't supply ground when the sensors are not installed. On mine (DME 7), I got around 10v between the heater wires. Now at least we know for sure the sensors got positive power to the heater and also signal from the DME. Also the wires are intact. Only DME and sensors are left and I would bet on bad sensors.
  17. Ahsai
    Yes, it's that bolt. Will make sense when you get there.
  18. Ahsai
    I'm pretty sure removing the alternator, throttle body, and the intake plenum are needed. No engine drop for sure.
  19. Ahsai
    Yea you may have a good point. I just hate doing projects and not able to finish it due to a part or something Im needing. Especially when I hear the alternator is a pita. Any pointers from experience you can throw out with that bolt? I hear you . Who doesn't. Alternator removal here with tips http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/198-removing-and-replacing-the-alternator/ Steps 7 and 8 are the secret of less pain.
  20. Ahsai
    Ok, found it for you http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33878-dme-location-for-a-99-996-cabrio/?p=179604
  21. Ahsai
    That's good. Looks like we're zooming in for two floating ground wires (still hard to imagine how this happened but that's what the measurement told us for now). Disconnect just the negative battery terminal is good enough. The DME pinout info is here. I think the DME location may be a bit diff on the cab. I'm not sure. Will update this if I have more info on it. No, I'm not talking about the two round connectors. The O2 sensor wiring don't go through those round connectors at all since the sensors are on the cats and not on the engine itself like the cam sensors, coolant sensor, etc.
  22. Ahsai
    Ok, looks like you get the 12v power to the heaters on all the 4 sensors but their grounds being at 0.00v are questionable. Combined with your previous measrement that you also see 0.0v between the RD/WT and BK heater wires, I suspect the heater ground wires are FLOATING and disconnected from the DME. Check this first: measure BK again to make sure you get ~12v on BK, then immediately measure between the RD/WT and BK again and see if you get ~12v. If not, the RD/WT wire is floaing. There are no connectors in the back seat for the O2 sensors. Their ground wires connect directly to the DME. Refer to the diagram above, the precat heater ground wires of both sensors are joined at junction "31", which then connects directly to pin 30 of the DME (not shown in the diagram). Similarly the postcat heater ground wires are joined at junction "32", which connects directly to pin 1 of the DME. The next steps will be more involved...Can you: 1) Disconnect the battery -ve terminal 2) Disconnect the DME from its socket 3) Check for continuity between pin 30 (RD/WT) of the DME socket and the RD/WT heater wire of the precat sensors? 4) Check for continuity between pin 1 (RD/BK) of the DME socket and the RD/BK heater wire of the postcat sensors? DME 5.2.2 pinout info here. Since you pulled on the wire harness, I guess it's possible some wires got disconnected at the DME socket end although hard to imagine since the wires are all taped in a bundle... Good luck.
  23. Ahsai
    Btw, it may not even be one of the valves. A broken or leaking vacuum line is all it takes to effectively disable the SAI system and trip that code.
  24. Ahsai
    Unfortunately due to so many vacuum tubes and valves working together hidden behind the alternator, I don't think there's any shortcut hence the long thread I quoted before.
  25. Ahsai
    I think it would look very nice as well even without the wrap.
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