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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Good summary. I just want to add between steps 6 & 7 Reebuck also tested the precat O2 sensors using propane torch and confirmed they didn't generate any voltage. Also the MAF was cleaned and intake removed and reconnected multiple times. It would be nice if after some more miles, Reebuck can confirm the engine passed all those emission readiness tests and there are no more error codes.
  2. Ahsai
    I only found the fix for MkI w/o glove box here http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/540980-is-this-normal-passenger-airbag-cover-fitment.html I wonder for MkII, if it's as simple as removing the glove box to expose the airbag screws. Just be careful poking around airbags :)
  3. Ahsai
    Can he fire up the engine at all?
  4. Ahsai
    I don't buy that. If he meant the car battery, the immobilizer is designed to tolerate a dead battery so once a good car battery is put in place, the engine should fire up.If he meant the key battery, that's not reasonable either. There's a transponder inside your key fob, which is a passive component that does not require any battery to operate. Around the ignition key hole, there's a ring inside the ignition that radiates RF signal to read the transponder. If the signal read matches that of the immobilizer, the DME will activate ignition, fuel injection, etc.
  5. Ahsai
    Well done and glad you got it sorted out!
  6. Ahsai
    Oh you should also inspect under the car where the shift cables hook onto the transmission. A lot of times the cables are knocked out from their brackets (or the brackets can no longer hold the cables firmly), which doesn't help smooth shifting.
  7. Ahsai
    Most likely not because your stock shifter does not even have that washer. The blue part of the OP's shifter (metal) is made of plastic in your stock shifter. Also, to get in 4th gear, you just pull the stick straight toward the rear and there's no tension in the left-right direction so even if you had a washer, that washer won't hinder you anyway. It's possible though your stock shifter is worn out and needs replacement though. You need to remove the center console to check that and the cable connections. Also, have you replaced the transmission fluid or it's still stock?
  8. Ahsai
    Assuming you're looking for summer tires and not all-season, the two popular choices for your situation and sizes are Continental DW (not DWS, which is all-season) and Bridgestone Potenza S04. Both have excellent reviews from car magzine and online Pirsche forums and best bang for the buck as well. Review of both here http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/continental-extremecontact-dw-page-6
  9. Ahsai
    I think one of your problems is step 4 where you didn't change out the brake pad warning sensors. The sensor needs to be replaced once tripped (because physically its internal wire is broken at the contact point by rubbing with the rotor). Once changed out, your brake warning light should go away barring other faults. Your ABS sensor seems like a seperate problem. I would check the sensor connector and wire to make sure they are OK and not distrured during the brake job before.
  10. Ahsai
    I think it's either the smallest or the middle one. You have to turn the knurled part to expand the adaptor to seal it. Only the gasket is needed and no sealant. Just make sure the mating surfaces are clean and flat. If you want to change out all the coolant, you can do it w/o much work compared to disconnecting lots of hoses under the car. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/737700-simple-3-step-complete-coolant-drain-updated-w-refill-procedure-water-pump-tips.html
  11. Ahsai
    Going by memory, I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove the water pump. You might need to remove the hose connected to the water pump for better access but even that I'm not sure you need. The photo also suggests the same. The 10mm 1/4" swivel socket is the ticket.
  12. Ahsai
    Well done and mystery solved! :)
  13. Ahsai
    Let's try to confirm the following and see if I missed anything: 1) LN tool is meant to lock bank1 regardless of 3-chain or 5-chain engine <- confirmed by JFP on your other thread on LN IMSB instruction 2) The half-moon orientation needed before you insert the tool on bank 1 <- confirmed by xmac on 5-chain engine (larger half moon closer to engine block and smaller half moon closer to camcover) With both of the above you cannot insert the LN tool to bank1 regardless of which TDC. That sounds like a problem by itself since you can't poceed without locking bank1. Regarding TDC definition, I'm not sure either but if the engine is at TDC (about to ignite) on cyl #1, the valves of cyl #2 and cyl3 are FULLY open, which will exert a lot of force on the camshafts (tend to rotate the cams) and the IMSB side since cyl3 is closest to the IMSB. On the contratry, if TDC (about to intake) on cyl #1, only valves on #5 and #6 are FULLY open, which will exert less force on the IMSB being far from it. Even though in both cases cams in bank1 will be locked anyway, the latter seems to create less stress to the locking tool hence a safer position and less tendency to rotate.
  14. Ahsai
    Nice!
  15. Ahsai
    Questions 1) what are the cam dev readout on both banks? Should be very small based on your photos 2) can you put the LN locking tool on bank1 now? If not, if you rotate the crank 360, will the tool fit bank1?
  16. Ahsai
    Based on what you measured and post #7, seems only option 2 can make everything consistent? Although I must admit I would have thought Porsche define TDC using option 1 but your measurements showed otherwise.
  17. Ahsai
    Domiac, your definition of TDC is TDC followed by spark immediately but TDC can also mean TDC followed by intake immediately ("UP" in your tables). What if Porsche's TDC@1 equals your UP@1, then it seems everything is consistent? Basically in the first table, cyclic shift your color columns six columns to the right to align with your TDC definition.
  18. Ahsai
    That makes sense.
  19. Ahsai
    I see now. I tried the same before briefly and found the threaded stud somehow locks in place even after both nuts are removed. I'm also curious to know if the stud can be removed.
  20. Ahsai
    You can see how the bushings are installed on the shifter assembly in steps 28-30.
  21. Ahsai
    Looks like B&M or one of the clones. You need to remove the whole carbon fiber center console to get access to the two bushings where the bronze part in your photo insert into. See instruction here http://www.bmracing.com/bmnew/pdf/45135.pdf
  22. Ahsai
    Nice photos in your threads Domiac. Thought this will compliment your 2D diagram.
  23. Ahsai
    Brake switch is good? Can you jump start it?
  24. Ahsai
    Excellent! Thanks for the info John. Learn something new everyday.
  25. Ahsai
    Thanks for the explanation. So for DME 7.2 and later, these codes don't really help diagnostic much if there are no other codes. Glad I asked. These could be extremely misleading for 7.2 and later. I think part of the problem is that document has a 1999 date, so it may have been correct at the time. You have to be careful with check for supplements and updates. Thanks John. Do you know if this "dual nature" of P1128/1130 still holds true today for DME 7.2 and 7.8?
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