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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    :clapping:
  2. Ahsai
    Here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41040-ac-compressor-clutch-wire-connection/
  3. Ahsai
    Looking good!
  4. Ahsai
    :thumbup: I like the idea of tools being more expensive than the car :)
  5. Ahsai
    I want to get a metric only tool set with storage box to keep in my frunk. So far I've only found Britool http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/britool-socket-accessory-set-of-98-metric-1-4-1-2in-drive Williams tools http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/williams-50622-1438-drive-socket-screwdriver-wrench-89pc-p-8089.html Britool seems to be made in Taiwan (which is better than China for sure but not as good as "Made in USA"). Willams tools is supposed to be made in USA but I suspect for the price and pieces (many) you get, they could be made in Taiwan too. Probably the same source as Blupoint (their boxes and prices look very similar), which is made in Taiwan as well. This set is quite nice especially for people who just started to build up the tools.
  6. Ahsai
    Ok, I misread your intention the other way since you mentioned "expensive" :) German tools are interesting. One of their designs that intrigues me is a torque wrench with interchangeable "heads" such as box wrench end, crowfoot wrench, etc. I dont think we have an equvalent here in the US. For socket sizes, 3/8" drive 13mm and 16mm should be quite useful in general. You plan to get German ratchets as well?
  7. Ahsai
    Usually you get a much better deal buying a set as opposed to individual sockets. If you are in US, I highly recommend the costco craftsman set here. Can't beat the price with what you get and made in USA to boot http://costcocouple.com/craftsman-150-piece-mechanics-tool-set/
  8. Ahsai
    It's hard to say unless someone knows the exact inputs the DME needs to operate the ac compressor. That's why I hope your problem is on the power side and not the control side, which the tests on the relay will tell us.
  9. Ahsai
    I see. DME pin #69 is called "AC demand" in my wiring diagram ( Bentley repair manual). It's the signal line that goes from the climate control to the DME to ask the DME to turn ON/OFF the compressor.
  10. Ahsai
    The compressor ground is the engine itself since the compressor is mounted directly metal to metal on the engine. Same is shown in your diagram if you look carefully...there's a "arm" coming out to the left, which is the ground. That's why the compressor power is a single wire (12v positive). DME is Digital Motor Electronics, same as ECU. Porsche calls it DME. It supplies signal to activate the compressor relay. The DME itself gets command from the ac control panel. The DME controls the compressor because in some cases it needs to turn off the compressor even ac is ON e.g., under wide open throttle. One more question. How do you generate the 60 teeth (with 2 teeth missing) rpm signal the DME is expecting? Forget about Durametric. We can still keep diagnosing the system without it as long as you can access the DME.
  11. Ahsai
    The way I undersatnd it is Porsche do furhther QC and accept only those that pass the tighter tolerance and return the others back to Bosch (similar for all other OEM parts not just MAF). I guess statiscally you have a better quailty one from Porsche but by how much I don't know.
  12. Ahsai
    Oh never mind. Now I see the nut is recessed so you can't use any wrench.Your electrical tape idea sounds like it should work.
  13. Ahsai
    Why not just use an adjustable wrench given the low torque spec (18 ftlb)?
  14. Ahsai
    BTW, I think this tool should be able to id TDC compression (whistle sound) and TDC overlap (no sound)....could have solved your dilemma instantly :) http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=9710 Or you can just connect a pressure gauge at the spark plug hole to achieve the same.
  15. Ahsai
    Um...I don't think you can activate the extra lift because there's no oil pressure for the hydraulic involved. Sure you can activate the lift solenoid to hear a click but wihout oil pressure, the cam follower will not lockup for the high lift. At least that's the way I understand how it works.
  16. Ahsai
    Great. Now just keep an eye on the voltmeter to make sure you're seeing 13.5-14.5v whenever the engine is running, then you should be fine.
  17. Ahsai
    Oh yes, completely forgot about that one. I actaully have them on my other non-Porsche car and I'm very happy with them too. However, I've heard people complaining that they wear fast but I have no way to confirm since I haven't put enough miles on them.
  18. Ahsai
    Ummm......How about "Welcome to RennTech"! :welcome: Lol, sorry. Corrected now. I've been jumping between the two forums a lot lately.
  19. Ahsai
    Does sound like a battery but hard to say without load testing it. How old is the battery? If you are going to put in a new battery anyway (sounds like you are), just make sure the new battery is charged up. Then once the engine is running, just pay attention to the voltmeter gauge. It should read 13.5v - 14.5v all the time when you are driving even with all accessories ON.
  20. Ahsai
    Ok, checked the wiring diagram now. That pin #25 is telling you that the connector has a total of 25 pins. Irrelevant to the ac. If you remove the compressor relay and push that ac button, what are the voltages you see at pins 30, 86 and 85, relative to ground? What is the voltage between pins 85 and 86? If you don't see 12v at pin 30, power is not reaching the relay and next upstream stop is the pressure sensor. If you don't see 12v between pins 85 and 86, the DME is not commanding the compressor to turn ON. This will be a much tougher problem due to your LS1 conversion. If you have durametric, you can trigger the DME to turn on/off the compressor, which will test the integrity of both the control and power of the compressor circuit.
  21. Ahsai
    Welcome to Renntech. Can you tell us the year and model? I have not checked the wiring diagrams yet but most cars have a low pressure sensor and a high pressure sensor, which will cut power to the compressor if either is tripped. Just a few thoughts that came to mind. How did you charge the system without running the compressor or you just jumped it while charging? How much refrigerant was put in? I could be wrong but if the outside temp is lower than some number, the compressor will not turn on. Maybe that input is lacking?
  22. Ahsai
    Take your time, Bob :)
  23. Ahsai
    Sounds pretty dangerous! Some binding in your throttle cable?
  24. Ahsai
    If the bulbs are burnt, you can remove them and check for continuity to id them. If they are just dim, perhaps you can remove them one by one and shine a flash light in the hole to see if that helps you id which one is which.
  25. Ahsai
    Are there any error codes and the fuse on the immobilizaer is good? Sounds like they are saying the problem is a bad immobilizer.
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