Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    2,804
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Haha, the hard part (diagnostic) was done by John already, I was just pointing out the obvious.
  2. Maybe difficult to find a slope in Toronto :)
  3. John, that file applies for Boxsters as well (the file is for Cayenne)? They are very similar in terms of how to test the sensor, but some of the other info is Cayenne specific. Just about all CPS sensors are simple Hall Effect units, so they work the same. Cool. Downloaded for future reference. Thanks! :)
  4. John, that file applies for Boxsters as well (the file is for Cayenne)?
  5. I've never tried it but people seem to have success with it. If I remember right, you can find a slope with the car nose facing down so it's easier for air bubbles from the radiator to float up back to the coolant tank. Then pop the bleeder valve on the coolant tank by lifting the metal wire. Then let the engine idle to warm, then rev up the engine a few times to 4-5k (to speed up the water pump and coolant flow, hoping to rush the air out). Then drive the car a bit more and let the engine cool down completely (overnight). Check the coolant level and top off if necessary. Repeat the above. If the coolant level does not drop anymore, you're done and can close the bleeder valve. Edit: I think the slope thing is optional but will help. A flat ground should be fine too.
  6. If you have Durametric, you can activate the radiator fans to check. If not, you can knee down and listen close to the right front wheel fender area for the noise. If it's really the radiator fan, a replacement is not too bad. i think a BOSCH fan is about $250. Need to remove the wheel liner, and maybe even the front bumper. I don't see why you need to replace the driver side at the same time. Can wait till that side fails. As long as the fan is still turning, you should be fine. The noise may indicate the fan has more resistance so it may draw more current. If you are handy, you probably can get away with replacing the greasing the bearing but I've never seen a DIY for that online.
  7. Thanks Ahsai! this is very helpful! Just wanted to make sure that the p0336 was related or not. Np. It's refering to the same crankshaft position sensor so it's related.
  8. Good job diagnosing and fixing it! Your hard start problem sounds like a failing crank position sensor.
  9. These links should be useful. http://www.knclub.ru/f/attachments/30084d1327573405-p0336.pdf http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/20534-fault-code-p0455-evap-system-large-leak/
  10. That's interesting. Why there are inches of threads then? Sounds like more ropes to hang oneself. Here's a link that expands on Dharn's point http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/233189-pss9-10-ride-height-limitations-revisited.html
  11. Ahsai, had I been faced with any more adjustments to make I might have twisted the car into a German pretzel. Lol I would have warned you if you had told us you were gonna DIY on height adjustment on PSS9. It's a job best left for the pros...even if you had all the equipment and tools you need, lots of experience and black magic involved I heard :)
  12. Also the height and compression of the springs cannot be independently adjusted for PSS9 and I'm sure that doesn't help.
  13. Pretty detailed diagnostic steps and info in this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/35578-04-cayenne-turbo-p0492-codesecondary-air-injection-bank-2/
  14. While you're doing the test John suggested, you can also test the car harness side of bank 1 sensor 2 (the inactive one) to see if you get ~0.4v between pins 3 and 4 with key on engine off. If you don't, you have a wiring issue. If you do, most likely the sensor is gone but if you want to be 100% sure, you can hit the tip with a propane torch for a minute or two and see if you get 0-1v reading between pins 3 and 4 of the sensor.
  15. Do not over pressure it please and check post #6 above :) You also need to get an adapter ($20 or so and doesn't come with the Stant tester) to check the CAP if so wished. BTW, the Stant testers are now made in Mexico but the good news is they are cheaper now at $70 or so.
  16. Not sure if you're talking about these good reads. The second one here is for Cayenne and all the others are excellent as well including other models or focusing on specific topic for multiple models. http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/category/90-after-sales-training-books/?sort_order=ASC&sort_key=file_submitted&num=10&filter_key=all&st=10
  17. Yea, the Bentley manual is good at a few things (e.g., extensive electrical diagrams and per model DTC code definition) but unfortunately AOS is not one of it albeit it's a common repair.
  18. Good point about the correct pressure, bBunny. Also, one more important point - leave the system pressurized (at ~19PSI) for at least 20 min to give a chance for the leak(s) to show up. OP, check out the recommended testing procedure and pressure for both the CAP and the cooling system here. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45498-how-much-pressure-to-test-coolant-tank-and-cap/?hl=cap
  19. Btw, obviously you have a leak in your cooling system. When there's a leak, the system may not be able to hold enough pressure, which will lower the boiling point of the coolant. When boiling, air bubbles are formed which do not conduct heat well.
  20. I would test the CAP first to make sure it holds the correct pressure and make sure it also opens at hiher pressure. Then pressure test the whole cooling system to track down and fix any leak. If nothing improves after that, it's a good idea to inspect/replace the water pump and thermostat.
  21. The Secondary Air Injection readiness /test.
  22. Btw, their functions are different. The internal ones are to remove air from the oil to prevent aeration and has nothing to do with crankcase ventilation. The external one is to remove the oil from the blow by and allow the crankcase gas to be burned via the throttle body.
  23. There are two internal oil seperators inside the oil sump. There's also one external AOS, which is the one people always refer to.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.