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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Just curious what's the fender to ground distance now? That's some serious rake.
  2. Ahsai
    Glad to hear the new alignment is good. Your ride height is MUCH lower than the x74 118F/133R (18" rims).
  3. Ahsai
    So how does the new alignment feel?
  4. Ahsai
    I saw others saying only need to remove wheel and wheel liner. No need to remove the bumper.
  5. Ahsai
    Already replied to you on Rennlist on shipping :)
  6. Ahsai
    I've seen them listed for $200-$300.
  7. Ahsai
    Good call trying another DME. I'm curious to know why the throttle position sensor also flagged codes. Maybe the TPS is fine and those values shown by Durametric are only substituted values, after the Pedal position sensor has been detected offline. Please keep us posted.
  8. Ahsai
    Its the voltage from pin 86 via the coil you are seeing.
  9. Ahsai
    X59/2 and x59/1 are the two 25-pin round connectors of the engine harness in the engine bay. The ones you called canons. X59/2 is the same one the crankshaft sensor is on. Haha, I know but that's what it says in the diagram. My guess is "TV" probably refers to throttle valve. Btw, based on the throttle valve pin out above, you can rig something up with a 5v supply (e.g., USB charger) to test your old throttle body and check the signal voltage range when you move the throttle valve so you know for sure.
  10. Ahsai
    Anytime! It's fun to help if I can :) I'm in SoCal. Coolant sensor Pin1->x59/2 pin 12 -> pin 74@DME (NTC water) Pin4->x59/2 pin 21 -> pin 34@DME (Ground sensors) Throttle position sensor Pin 1->x59/2 pin 21 -> pin 34@DME (Ground sensors) Pin 3->x59/2 pin 23 -> pin 44@DME (TV-signal) Pin 2->x59/2 pin 22 -> pin 53@DME (5v supply)
  11. Ahsai
    I do not know the throttle position sensor output voltage since mine is e-gas. However, from the wiring diagram, it looks like the sensor uses a 5v reference so I would expect the signal to be between 0 and 5v, just don't know if the voltage goes up or down when you press on the gas pedal. I think you can just give 0v or 4.5v to pin 44@DME and see if that makes a diff to your AC relay. Temp sensor, pin 1@ sensor to pin 74@DME and pin 4 @sensor to pin 34@DME (ground). Pin 2&3 can be ignored. You should see this from your wiring diagram.
  12. Ahsai
    Got it now. So pin 85@relay is still connected to pin 62@DME, right?I think it's quite possible the DME uses the throttle position sensor (pin 44@DME) as an input because if I remember correctly, the AC compressor will be cut at WOT. Also, the other potential input could be the coolant temp (pin 74 @ DME). I wonder if the AC compressor will be cut if engine is too hot or too cold.
  13. Ahsai
    Do you have the full wiring diagram of your car? Sorry can't tell from your reply, are those two pins connected currently? If not, you need to connect them. Basically you need to restore all connections between the AC control and the DME as per the wiring diagram that was removed together with the engine harness.
  14. Ahsai
    The problem gets significantly harder since it's on the control side and I don't know you custom wiring of the DME. How's the wiring between the AC computer and the DME? e.g., pin 69 of DME is supposed to connect to pin D6 of the AC computer.
  15. Ahsai
    The stock compressor has one wire connected to positive and it uses the compressor case as the ground. The way you setup your two wire compressor sounds correct. Your issue is on the control side that the DME is not grounding the relay even when the AC button is pressed.
  16. Ahsai
    Here you can see the diode pack side of the two pins. Seems the pins just plug into each other but it's hard to tell whether any crimping or soldering is needed by design. I wonder if someone has been inside your alternator before and soldered those pins... Photo taken from here.
  17. Ahsai
    Most of them are but this design is different. Looks like you're right that the pins need to be desoldered in order to remove the regulator.I found the regulator for Delphi alternators 10480403 and 10480407 so not exactly your model but looks similarly designed http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VERG1155-12-VOLT-ALTERNATOR-REGULATOR-MERCEDES-DELPHI-DELCO-REMY-235542-/300857909741?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item460c8761ed Looks like Mercedes and VW also use these water cooled alternators. Maybe a correct replacement regulator for yours IS available out there somewhere.
  18. Ahsai
    Interesting. In US here, the Bosch catalogue only lists the alternator for the v6 Cayennes. They have nothing for the v8. Curious to find out what the Porsche center will say about Bosch's finding.
  19. Ahsai
    Ok, looks like your alternator is manufactured by Delphi. I have searched and couldn't find any Bosch equivalent unit. If it's a reman, you would think it's from Delphi and not Bosch. Does the Bosch center recognize the alternator as a Bosch reman unit?Btw, seems no parts are available for rebuild according to this thread, not even the regulator. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/porsche-cayenne-forum/774694-2004-ctt-water-cooled-alternator-r-and-r-oh-joy.html
  20. Ahsai
    Lol, always amused by his news. If you plan to DIY or troubleshoot a lot, Durametric is a must have imho as it provides extra info and capability than regular OBDII scanners such as cam deviation, misfire counts, clearing airbag light, commanding components to be turned on, etc. Depending on the issues you are experiencing, you may not need all the features but when you need it, there's no substitute (at this price).
  21. Ahsai
    Best bet is to get another alternator (new or reman) and have it load tested BEFORE putting it on the car because there are other electronics that can also go wrong inside the alternator (e.g., power diodes). Anyways, it's Porsche center's problem now under warranty work :)
  22. Ahsai
    Also, you may want to cut the power (fuses) to the aftermarket components and drive the car for a few days to retest, just to eliminate them as the source of your problem. How old is your battery? Your battery is ok but not great. It has lost 10%+ its designed capacity. My experience is a new battery usually measures higher than its CCA spec, then after a few yrs it will lose a can be a few %. My 2 yr old 700 CCA battery still measures 680. My car is a DD so it's quite battery friendly though.
  23. Ahsai
    Have you checked if the battery ground cable and engine ground cable are tight and without corrosion? Maybe replace the ignition switch again? These problems happened (much) after the ignition switch change, right?
  24. Ahsai
    Possible. The valve is spring loaded to pull the stem down. If you remove the cap, the only way to pull the stem up is to flip the metal wire to vertical position to pry the stem up. If you leave the wire flat horizontally, the stem will be pulled down by the spring. When the tank is hot and has pressure inside, it will force the stem up and after the tank cools down, the stem again will go down. Wire up is bleeding position. Wire flat is normal position.
  25. Ahsai
    Sounds like an alternator load test performed at idle and at 1500rpm. It clearly failed at idle where the alternator outputs nothing and the engine is powered only by the battery.
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