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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Wow, first time I hear a 997.2 water pump gone south in only 20k miles. Is this a known and common issue or you're just unlucky? TIA
  2. Ahsai
    What's under "DME" for 996? TIA
  3. Ahsai
    and this http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-07-08&section=813-35 I counted 12 total :)
  4. Ahsai
    This? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-07-08&section=813-45
  5. Ahsai
    I think the recommendation is replacing tires that are older than 6 yrs so your tire was overdue. The rubber just deteriorate/crack in time. Is it possible that it was under inflated?
  6. Ahsai
    :thumbup:
  7. Ahsai
    After I got to op temp, MAF sticks between 17.8 to 18.6 on 700RPMs. Makes sense. I missed that you said the yellow rolls are when the engine was just started.
  8. Ahsai
    You should be able to pinpoint the location of the noise better if you use a long screwdriver or a stethoscope with a metal rod attached at the business end. Just poke around the bank 2 cam cover and see if you can pinpoint the noise to a cylinder. I would monitor the misfire counters on all cylinder during the test drive. It may be just a bled down lifter.
  9. Ahsai
    Those Durametric numbers look fine. However, if the DME has been reset recently, 10 min may not be enough to get a steady state values. The best is to drive the car for a while say half a day then re-measure everything. Also the MAF reading of 20 kg/hr sounds high at 700 rpm. I think it should be around 15-18kg/hr. Btw, are you sure the sound is from cyl 4 and it was not there before the shop towel ingestion?
  10. Ahsai
    Great -- some actual photos of screens would be great. I'm also curious about its capability. I wonder if it can read cam deviations and also what tests/output control it can perform. Much cheaper than durametric and has no car limits.
  11. Ahsai
    Unfortunately no, Torque app cannot reset any maintenance light. It can only reset the CEL.
  12. Ahsai
    If you use an Android phone, you can get the bluetooth OBDII dongle and the Torque app for $15 or so. That lets you read and clear OBDII codes and it shows and plots real-time sensor data as well. However, it won't be able to do anything with ABS, SRS, etc. For preliminary diagnostic, it's quite handy and it's hard to beat the price also. There's also a wifi version for Iphones but a little more expensive.
  13. Ahsai
    If you become a contributing member, you can access this document that explains how the DME and the sensors work. It mentions the 5v reference for sensors. http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/download/1660-after-sales-training-advanced-engine-management-systemspdf/
  14. Ahsai
    The sensor has a varaible resistor (varies with pressure) and a switch inside. What resistance value you get between the "G" pin and the metal casing of the sensor? It sould be ~10 ohms at 0 pressure and 180 ohm, at 5 bar. You can use a resistor (or potentiometer) with value in between 10 and 180 ohm to substitue the sensor and see if the gauge moves. Not sure how you get negative voltage. Did you measure all the voltage with respect to the chassis ground?
  15. Ahsai
    Cracked coolant tank is very common. The radiator fans are fine but the impellers (composite material) of the water pump may shatter due to age and bearing failure. Cracked hoses are less common and if they fail, usually it's the ones that are easy to access and replace anyway.I usually fill mine to the midpoint between min and max when cold and the coolant will expand to max when hot. If you fill it up to max, it may expand too much when hot.
  16. Ahsai
    Actuall you are right. The genuine Porsche ones are still blue. The black is from a different manufacturer even though it carries the same .04 p/n. Somehow I wrongly associated the black with .04
  17. Ahsai
    Looks like original coolant. I would recommend a complete coolant replacement with Porsche pink coolant. Also best time to replace the water pump and thermostat as preventive maintenance. Your tank part number looks quite old and the latest tank is 99610615704 and the latest CAP is black and ends with .04 You can top it off with distilled water to a level between the min and max marks then monitor it to see if the level drops. If it's the original tank, best to replace it too as a PM.
  18. Ahsai
    Glad you got it sorted out and it's a simple fix!
  19. Ahsai
    I asked Gert to mod mine so it took longer (my cats sat at the Belgium custom for 10 days!). If you do their exchange program, they can ship you the cats right away (if they are in stock) and bill you the core charge. Once they receive your cats, they will refund the core charge. Just send an email to Gert to ask for details. He's awesome!
  20. Ahsai
    Yes, I did the removal and install myself. With the proper O2 sensor tool, anyone can do it :)
  21. Ahsai
    I just got the 200-cell sport cats from Carnewal here http://www.carnewal.com/products/P96/p96224/Exchange-Sport-Cats I'm loving these. No bling but only ~$1,250 including shipping both ways for BOTH cats. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/794762-carnewal-gert-200-cell-cat-upgrade.html
  22. Ahsai
    Agreed.
  23. Ahsai
    Well on the gauge in the car it never really broke 2 BAR but that gauge is clearly broken. I have no way of knowing honestly because of hooking up the mechanical gauge, I wish I did. What should it be at? I think it should be around 5bar.
  24. Ahsai
    Another maybe simpler failure point could be the interior temp sensor, which maybe sensing HOT all the time so the control unit decides to close the air mix flap to avoid hot air. When you set the temp to Hi though, maybe this sensor is bypassed so its faulty input won't matter. You can check it with Durametric or check the voltage of pin B6 of the control unit 0c->3.7v 23C->2.5v 35C->1.7v Also, there's a temp sensor called output footwell sensor, pin B7 of the control unit 0c->4.2v 23c->3.2v 35C->2.6v Of course if you use Durametric, it can also retrieve any a/c related error codes.
  25. Ahsai
    Exactly. The servo should move the flap proportional to the temp setting. It should be able to stay partially open so it can modulate the air temp by mixing the right amount of hot air with cold to get the exact temp setting you chose. In other words, as you change the temp setting gradually, the flap should move bit by bit. That's why there's a potentiometer inside the servo that provides a varying output depending on the degree of opening of the flap. I hope that makes sense.
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