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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    If you can't see where the leaking is coming from, you may want to clean up the area and wipe it dry, then pressure test it. Your second pic shows the oil pump, which has a few coolant ports with gaskets (see all the pics in the link below). Could be one of the gaskets. http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/99610701260/ES1483458/
  2. Ahsai
    Did you clean the engine case mating surface well and used a new gasket? Are you sure the leak is NOT from where the water pump mates to the engine? Water pump bolts torqued down per spec?
  3. Ahsai
    There are companies doing repair on instrument clusters. Looks like an LCD display problem which should be repairable (replacing the LCD underneath).
  4. Ahsai
    I think you have to be a contributing member to access that pdf file.
  5. Ahsai
    Another thing worth trying is to scan it with Durametric for any fault codes in the climate control system. Agree with John though that this is probably beyond DIY if you don't find anything obvious.
  6. Ahsai
    You can put a set of a/c gauges and measure the low pressure and high pressure side the same time. If the compressor is working, you should see low pressure on the low side (~30PSI) and high pressure (150+ PSI) on the high side. If not, it could be the internal regulating valve inside the variable displacement compressor See pdf page 38 here for more info on it and the a/c system in general http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/file/1663-after-sales-training-climate-control-systems-diagnosis-repairpdf/
  7. Ahsai
    Have you checked if the coolant fans are running (and their fuses)?
  8. Ahsai
    Yes, those fuses are for engine electronics, ignition, injection, and fuel pump.
  9. Ahsai
    Checked fuses c1 to c4 yet?
  10. Ahsai
    Solved?
  11. Ahsai
    You may want to check with Durametric then. Their support is pretty good. Usually they will ask you to log your session and send the log to them for analysis. It's strange though that only SOME of the activation don't work. How about the SAI pump activation?
  12. Ahsai
    no ideas about 1 and 3 but 2 should work so that's definitely not normal. I have an '03 C2 and 2 works for me. Is your's a genuine Durametric or a clone?
  13. Ahsai
    If there's no coolant in the oil, I think the best course of action is to pressure test the cooling system and get a new coolant cap.
  14. Ahsai
    Have you checked the dipstick for coolant? It's unlikely you have air void for 3 months. The other possibility is a cracked tank where coolant drops and burns on the muffler but a gal in a week is a lot.
  15. Ahsai
    The fact they put a larger rating fuse there already told me their diagnostic methodology, regardless of their reputation...
  16. Ahsai
    Btw, I would insist putting back the 25A fuse (spec'ed by Porsche) there for testing and would not accept the 30A fuse as a fix.
  17. Ahsai
    Um, I have some reservation of their findings and "solutions". Throwing a fuse with a larger rating there and claimed the problem is solved is a no no and a bandage at best. It may lead to even more problems down the road. If the cam deviation triggered a CEL (assuming the fault was active and the CEL was on when they checked it), I wonder how they fixed it by just measuring things and claimed everything is fine. Or the CEL was off and this was an old code? What was the exact code(s)? Also 1123 and 1125 should not be caused by air leak. Just curious, does this shop have a good reputation of engine diagnostic?
  18. Ahsai
    There's a short or failed component somewhere on that circuit (obviously) and there are a few possibilities. The DME itself is also a suspect e.g., the smell could be from a burnt transistor that drive one of the cam solenoids (not uncommon on MkI 996s and boxsters). One needs to open up the DME to smell it and visually inspect it. There are also many other possibilites on that circuit that need to be eliminated one by one with educated guess. If the engine was removed for the job, it could easily be some wires got pinched and shorted. If not, the IMS/clutch job itself shouldn't disturb electrical stuff though. There's only one rear backup light switch on the transmission itself. However, I think it's a good idea for the shop to look at your car anyway since all these problems poped out right after they touched it. The P1123 & 1125 codes mean the engine is running rich. Need to check the fuel pressure and the MAF.
  19. Ahsai
    Good. That's some progress. C1 is 25A and it supplies power to lots of engine related components, e.g., the DME, a bunch of relays, the MAF, evap vent valves, camshaft solenoids, etc. Too many to list. It will take some patience to track down the problem. Let me know if you want to pursue. Can you tell if the smell is inside the passenger compartment or it's somewhere from the engine?
  20. Ahsai
    There is a male to male adaptor you can buy to pressure test the cap but the cap is not expensive so you may as well buy a new cap. I also like kbrandsma's theory about damaged threads. I guess worst is to replace the whole tank and the cap.
  21. Ahsai
    I would guess ignition switch based on the symptoms but you said even a new one doesn't help. First I hope the engine or other accessories on the belt is not seized but you can always hand spin it to verify. I would suggest the following: - check fuses C1 to C4 - jump the clutch switch anyway. Put the car in neutral and try to crank. - load test the battery. Can even try to jump start it using another car. - with car in neutral, remove the starter relay and jump pins 30 and 87. Starter should spin. - on the relay socket side, check voltage between pins 85 and 86 when you crank. Should see 12v or so. If you don't see 12v when cranking, either you have a wiring issue or the DME is not activating the relay, which points to the clutch switch or immobilizer. - bench test the relay
  22. Ahsai
    You can remove the belt and hand spin all the pulleys and see if they are gritty or rattling.
  23. Ahsai
    Yeah, looks like you're missing at least #7 and #8 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=801-80
  24. Ahsai
    There's no attachment... BTW, are you sure the sound is not from the water pump itself? The easiest way is to use a long screwdriver and put it between the suspected area and your ear. A mechanic stethoscope with a metal probe works really well too. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Mechanic-s-stethoscope/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=70131
  25. Ahsai
    I remember there's a vertical flap that blocks the hot air exiting the coolant fan from hitting the brakes. That looks missing in your photo. Fig 1 here http://p-car.com/996/diy/aerokit/
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