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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    If you don't have a multimeter yet, consider investing in this low DC current amp clamp that measures down to 1mA. You just clamp around the battery cable (or whatever cable you need to measure the current) without the need to disconnect anything. Perfect for measuring current draw and also useful for diagnosing general charging issues. http://www.amazon.com/ESI-687-Amps-Current-Probe/dp/B000W8HD6O/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1411413914&sr=8-8&keywords=low+dc+current+amp+clamp
  2. Ahsai
    No experience with the $155-180 ones. Most likely they don't come with a pulley or they come with a fixed pulley. My impression is a decent rebuilt one with the proper pulley will set you back $350-500 from Bosch.
  3. Ahsai
    Very well could be. If you can't verify the actual pressure with a physical gauge, maybe just replace the sender as it's not expensive and it's easy to replace.
  4. Ahsai
    This thread may help http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39927-p0410-and-p1411-running-out-of-ideas/?p=211436
  5. Ahsai
    Congrats. Glad you found the culprit.
  6. Ahsai
    Oh man, still struggling with this? Don't let a simple problem ruin your Porsche experience! Since you can reproduce the problem easily, all you need to do is measure the voltage drop at a few points to id the culprit with 100% confidence, as opposed to guessing and pondering. With your symptoms, the most likely culprits are the alternator, the starter cable, and the ground cable. Alternator passing a test when cold means nothing as it can still fail when hot. As temp goes up, the resistance of corroded cables also go up. I've replied to you in details before so I won't repeat myself here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44471-voltage-regulator-affected-by-heat-hence-low-voltage/?p=240055
  7. Ahsai
    If you kneel down and look at the bottom of the engine. You'll see the headers are really low and the ignition coils are not very high either (rear wheel center level). The next will be the little holes at the bottom of the airbox (rear bumper level) where water can be sucked in the engine. Agree with White.
  8. Ahsai
    Does the central lock switch lock and unlock the passenger side door but not the driver's side door?
  9. Ahsai
    Sounds like the blower fan motor or the power transistor is gone. If there are any error codes on the climate control unit, it will not show up as CEL. You need Durametric or alike to query the climate control computer for error codes. Without scannng it, you can check the fuses, unplug the motor and hotwire it to see if it spins.
  10. Ahsai
    Sorry for the confusion, I am talking about the black one in the photo link above. The pulley on the perimeter is spinning but not the black flat center section. I can't remember if it is supposed to spin. Thanks, That's the a/c pulley. It's normal the pulley center is not rotating when the a/c is OFF. When a/c is ON, the center should rotate as one piece with the pulley all the time.
  11. Ahsai
    We're talking about the silver pulley and not the black one, right? http://www.ramspeedautomotive.com.au/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Porsche-996-4S-Carrera-Grey-Supercharger-Upgrade-Ramspeed-3.jpg
  12. Ahsai
    Yeah, I was wondering the same.
  13. Ahsai
    Most likely nothing will be logged in the computer since the starter does not even start. Being intermittent is not easy to diagnose. In addition to the clutch, there's also a start lock relay behind the rear seat, and the starter itself that may act up but those are harder to access, especially when you need to catch it when it happens. My reco is still like my previous reply. Familiarize yourself with how to unplug the clutch switch (it's gray). Just jump the connectors WHEN it happens next time to see if it helps. Note even they tested the switch, since the failure is intermittent the test was inconclusive.
  14. Ahsai
    Glad you got it sorted. I think what happened was the bracket got caught with something on the engine so they moved in tandem but that extra 1/2" raise freed that up. That jacking point is strong enough to raise the rear of the car (while putting tremendous force pushing the engine mounts up...so not recommended for jacking up the car) so it's safe to use it to jack up just the engine.
  15. Ahsai
    If it's a stick shift, also check your clutch interlock switch. When the no-crank happens next time, just put the car in neutral, remove and short the two terminals on the switch and try to crank.
  16. Ahsai
    On dry roads, if you make a fast turn and lift the gas in the middle of the turn, the rear will slide out. Don't have to be super fast for this to happen. Same will happen much more easily on wet roads. I agree though you should be OK w/o PSM in general. The best is to attend some local autocross or DE to get a feel of the car in a controlled environment. In US here, we have PCA driving classes where they spray the track (a parking lot) very wet for people to practice what they call "pitch and catch", where the car's rear slides out and you counter-steer to recover.
  17. Ahsai
    See post #1 the 5th and 6th photos http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/3404-putting-your-996986997987-up-on-jackstands/
  18. Ahsai
    Btw, from your photo, you don't seem to jack the engine at one of its strongest point (between your finger and the wood plank in the photo). Just jacking from the sump even with wood may be dangerous.
  19. Ahsai
    Have you loosen the rest of the bolts between the bracket and engine? If so, just loosen the bottom nuts of the engine mounts a bit (with the engine fully supported by the jack) the bracket should come down.
  20. Ahsai
    Try this. Put one layer of electrical tape inside the socket and push the socket to grab the nut. Then pull on the socket a lttle bit as you turn to unscrew rhe nut. Hopefully the friction of the tape is just enough to grab the nut. Also these mini plier may fit the holes http://t.harborfreight.com/6-piece-mini-pliers-set-94931.html
  21. Ahsai
    If memory serves, there are no threads on the studs. Have you tried grabbing the nut with a needle nose plier, pull and turn at the same time?
  22. Ahsai
    I think that part comes with the cable and cannot be replaced separately. I never looked into that though.
  23. Ahsai
    Not sure. My understanding is even if you switch it off, PSM is still monitoring everything in the background. If it thinks something is wrong and you happen to hit the brake, it will re-engage and intervene.
  24. Ahsai
    Um, PSM may not like the 6% diff...
  25. Ahsai
    I think the effect on the rear tires would be like running the car on a really big circular track so probably ok. Does it have traction control or PSM? 6% diff may have some effect on those systems. Not sure though.
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