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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. You're welcome. Just trying...not sure if it really helps. A few +/- % for STFT looks normal to me. The only thing that jumps out is really the bank 2 precat sensor swings very slowly. Normally it should cross the 0.44v about once a second during idle. Actually even bank 1 precat signal looks slow. I want to make sure this is not due to low sampling rate. Could you plot ONLY the precat sensors on both banks again to get the max sampling rate? If the bank 2 precat signal still looks similar, I would suggest changing the sensor. Also, is the CEL currently ON? Can you reset the codes one more time and see if they come back?
  2. Since you already have the engine dropped, you may as well verify timing of both cams by removing the cam plugs and rotate the crank by hand and see if anything binds? If not, do a leak down test/ compression test on each cylinder to make sure there's compression. I assume you already checked for coolant in oil and vise vera? I'm not of aware of any ways to test for sparks with the engine dropped and all sensors/coils disconnected from the DME.
  3. +1 and also check fuses C1 to C4 and verify the fuel pump is running. Next is to verify sparks.
  4. If the LTFT are so close to zero, they are fine. Can you monitor the STFT on both banks at idle right after you drove and stop the car but just letting the engine idle? Say for a few minutes and watch the STFT? If they are very positive, that may mean you have a vacuum leak (or low fuel pressure). If they are very negative, that may mean you have a high fuel pressure.
  5. This is interesting. Were these taken at idle with fully warmed up engine? O2 1x1 is bank 1 precat sensor and it looks ok. O2 2x1 is bank 2 precat and it looks very lazy so it's a suspect to me. Both postcat readings look fine. The voltage is measured by the obii scanner on-board (shows 12v above) so it may not be accurate due to the cheap hardware so you better check with a voltmeter. Expect 12.8 to 14v with a healthy charging system. What's interesting is both of your codes are complaining about bank1 and have nothing to do with bank 2. What are the LTFT on both banks as reported by Torque?
  6. Look forward to your update and hope the fuel pump is the culprit. My points was a faulty pressure regulator can also reduce the pressure even when the engine is off. The proper way to test the head pressure is to crimp the return fuel hose to block any fuel from returning to the fuel tank. If you get proper pressure that way, the regulator is bad. If not, either the fuel filter or the fuel pump.
  7. I was thinking if the regulator is leaking hence reducing the fuel pressure. E.g., stuck in idle high vacuum condition.
  8. For a'99, the OE pump is $1k+ eBay has a few used ones $50-75. Maybe worth a try if cleaning/regreasing doesn't work. The squealing is coming from the bearing so I think it's likely regreasing should work. Worst is to press out and replace the bearings.
  9. First I don't think you have any problems in your cooling system. Also keep in mind the temp gauge in the cluster may not be completely accurate. You can use a generic obdii scanner to verify the coolant temp. I second what Lauren said but of course it's also possible your engine fan is not working. You can get 12v from any portable battery jumper, a battery charger, or the positive jump point in the engine compartment, which is directly connected to the battery and not fused so be extremely careful if you tap power from there.
  10. You can unplug the fan at the spoiler then supply 12v to it with the correct polarity (brown=negative). The fan consumes a few amps. To test the sensor and DME activation of the fan, you can probably use a hairdryer to blow hot air onto the sensor once you stopped the engine. Since this is an NTC type sensor, I would expect the fan to come on if you bridge the two pins of the connector. I've never tried that though. There's also a relay between the DME and the fan that can be tested too. If you have Durametric, it can activivate the fan on demand.
  11. There's diy instruction here to clean and re-lube. It may work. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/735878-sai-repair-diy.html You can get a Bosch unit here http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-2003-911-996-Carrera-Coupe-H6_3.6L/Search/SiteSearch/Air_Pump/ES2637042/
  12. If you have an Android phone, get a $15 Bluetooth OBDII dongle and the Torque Pro app and you can plot graphs like these http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/810606-obd-ii-code-reader-recommendation-2.html#post11299728 If you have an iPhone, get the wifi OBDII dongle. I'm not familiar with iOS apps but I know they have something very similar. The above assumes you don't want to invest in Durametric, which is the best and most comprehensive for DIYers.
  13. Do you have Durametric or a smartphone? Easiest way is to check the Real-time O2 sensor voltage pattern to confirm they are working properly. Also make sure the replacement has the correct part number and check for any intake leak after the MAF.
  14. Forgot about the actual number but 47 PSIG sounds like in the right ball park. Pretty sure 18PSIG is way too low. Could also be a bad fuel pressure regulator though.
  15. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38278-what-control-unit-is-under-drivers-seat-2005-997s/?p=202452 Hope someone will chime in with which wires are relevant.
  16. ECS also has quite competitive pricing and their customer service is first rated. I also love their high res photos of the parts and the fact that I can order online. Yes, Sunset is in Oregan.
  17. Unplug the actuator and check the connector side for VOLTAGE when you arm/unarm using the remote? "*Used an ammeter and found resistance when checking the connector that plugs into the actuator. Does this indicate a short?" Try not to do this again as this may damage the control unit (the multimeter is sending electricity to the control unit while measuring resistance).
  18. Glad it's been resolved and thanks for closing this thread.
  19. Thanks, Loren. Just to confirm, your post #2 above seems to suggest bank 2 instead?
  20. Hi Loren and John, Does P2098 point to the bank 2 pre-cat sensor? The Bentley repair manual says so but I just want to double check with you guys. TIA
  21. I would expect so with Motul 15w50 showing HIGHER pressure since it's thicker (even at higher temp) than the 0w40.
  22. I've used their hydraulic mounts on a BMW e36 a few years ago and they're still good. Look like good quality products.
  23. Motul 600 or Castro SRF for tracks.
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