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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I believe the M14, or M something is something Pelican parts added so you can ignore those. Good call checking for the correct MAF. Also check the MAF signal should be ~1.1v with key ON engine OFF and about ~1.3v at warm idle.
  2. Ahsai
    I know but only one of the wires (the ground supply) is connected to the DME. You can do a continuity check on this wire. The other wire (+12v) is connected to one of main relays and not to the DME. You can check if the wire gets +12v with key ON engine OFF.
  3. Ahsai
    BTW, it will give us much more clues if you can read the FRA (fuel trim under load) and TRA (fuel trim at idle) of both banks using Durametric. The 1123 and 1125 codes are complaining the engine tends to run RICH during idle. You can check the fuel pressure at idle and off idle (per the link I mentioned above).
  4. Ahsai
    Your LTFT is +10~15% so your engine tends to run lean. Toruq pro is accurate (OBDII) and LTFT should be equivalent to FRA from Durametric, which is the fuel trim under load. So either too much air (MAF under-reading the actual air flow) or not enough fuel (low pressure and/or delivery). Since the lean condition is during load (as opposed to idle), MAF and fuel delivery are two major suspects. Try this. Log the intake air temp, MAF (g/s), and rpm using the Torque pro app. A 3.4L engine should get ~213g/s at 6-7k rpm. Any internal mods to the engine such as increased displacement? The fuel flow spec is here https://www.renntech.org/topic/51800-911-996-cut-out-now-wont-start/?do=findComment&comment=293051
  5. Ahsai
    Yup, that's what I remember too. Variocam should activate at ~2000 rpm.. That's a bummer. I really thought you nailed it once I saw your photo of the burnt transistor. The 2 pin actuator as mentioned before, one gets +12v power whenever you have key ON engine OFF, the other pin connects to the DME. So you should check if you get +12v on the connector, then check the continuity of the other pin and the DME pin. If everything checks out, the DME variocam circuit is bad.
  6. Ahsai
    It's hard to say. Some has driven tens of thousands of miles before rebuild. One thing you could try is to switch to an oil with better protection such as Motul x-cess 5w40.
  7. Ahsai
    Have you verified the fuel rail flow rate? Did you send out the injectors for cleaning when you rebuilt the engine? Have you tried using techron/seafoam fuel additives? The coils will be good to replace if they are original anyway.
  8. Ahsai
    Yes, the cam deviation value will go toward more negative as the pads break in (and wear down later on) so it's better to start with a zero or slightly positive value to begin with. I suspect your timing is off just a little bit.
  9. Ahsai
    Sounds like this part is broken
  10. Ahsai
    My understanding is with proper timing the cam deviation should be closer to 0 or even being positive.
  11. Ahsai
    Looks like a lost cause to me but you could send pictures to modulemaster.com for their opinion.
  12. Ahsai
    Yes and a good tech will bring a vacuum with him/her to clean up any broken bits. It's just part of the job.
  13. Ahsai
    Btw, it's indeed strange. It's not a common failure though. The glass is not butting up against the frame and it's insulated by flexible sealant so I can't see how expansion can make the glass crack. Any previous body work around that area?
  14. Ahsai
    In case yours a coupe, the general steps are shown in this video (video is for front windshield but it's the same concept). Since the shop is used by your Porsche dealer, it should be reasonably good but you could also check for reviews from others.
  15. Ahsai
    You should also try to use a 9v battery to activate the solenoid (with it unplugged from the dme). Polarity doesn't matter. If the engine note changes, then the solenoid and actuator are fine.
  16. Ahsai
    So you replaced that transistor but the codes returned? Polarity doesn't matter for the light bulb. I think you can just rev the engine and the variocam should kick in beofr 3k rpm but I'm not 100% sure. You can test the good bank and see if that bank light up the bulb.
  17. Ahsai
    Now saw that you are new member, welcome to Renntech! I only have the 996 diagnostic info but I think they are the same for Boxsters. P0134 is Bank 1 O2 sensor interruption of signal P0154 is bank 2 O2 sensor interruption of signal "Not passed" may not mean fail. After the DME has been reset, you need a few drive cycles for all these emission readiness flags to be set. For the SAI readiness to pass, I think the DME needs to verify the SAI at cold start and also when engine is already running. It's possible that you just haven't driven the car long enough for the DME to perform those tests. Are those the only current codes? If there are no other codes, the DME Is not currently complaining about the SAI. Also, there are cases that required many miles of driving before the SAI is set, despite no issues with the SAI system.
  18. Ahsai
    Do you know what the error codes are/were? There are 500+ error codes that can trip the CEL so we will need some clue.
  19. Ahsai
    Also check this out
  20. Ahsai
    Is it possible to upload a video or sound clip? My guess is the elevated rev (cold start or a/c ON) makes the noise go away. Based on your description, it's more likely scored cylinder(s). You may want to use an endoscope to check for scoring.
  21. Ahsai
    These codes have been covered here many times so there should be some material if you search a bit. There is a changeover valve when activated will allow vacuum to be routed to activate the SAI physical valve, which lets the SAI pump air into the heads. So basically you need to check the operation of the changeover valve, make sure all the vacuum tubes are connected, the vacuum reservoir has no leaks, and then finally the SAI physical valve is working. Most of the cases are either the changeover valve or some disconnected vacuum tubes.
  22. Ahsai
    Yes, blow by from AOS. Will be good to check the crankcase vacuum to verify the health of your AOS ~4" to 5" of water suction.
  23. Ahsai
    That's great progress. It's very interesting. Compared to your first post, the rpm and MAF numbers are very similar, with or without the resistor and yet with the resistor, the DME entered closed loop fuel control.
  24. Ahsai
    You're welcome. You will probably need to reset the CEL manually after the repair as opposed to letting the DME resetting it, which may take a long time even if the fix is correct.
  25. Ahsai
    Well, a burnt transistor likely won't be able to supply the ground properly to the solenoid so even a new solenoid won't help. Whether this is indeed the problem depends on how the tech tested everything before when he told you the solenoid got power, like I explained before. If he only testes for the 12v but never the ground side, this transistor is likely your problem. However, if he indeed tested the ground side and verified the solenoid has power, then it's likely the actuator itself.
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