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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    The assembly lives behind the glove box and you should be able to access part of it with the lower cover removed http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/103-ELEC-HVAC_Motor/103-ELEC-HVAC_Motor.htm You will see the blower motor so you can orient yourself using the diagram you posted for the rest of the components.
  2. Ahsai
    That bolt is clamping the wheel carrier and the the strut like a vise. You should be able to loosen the bolt and jack up the wheel carrier back to the original position and then retighten the bolt.
  3. Ahsai
    I believe it's part #14 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=997-05-08&section=403-03 Edit: never mind, I misunderstood your question. Maybe part #12?
  4. Ahsai
    Have you tried to scan it with Durametric for any error codes and any real-time sensor values on the climate control unit?
  5. Ahsai
    Ah, bummer. Have you tried just banging on the lock itself after the outside handle is removed? I don't think you can access the actual latch by design for security. I speculate that for both cases I posted, it was actually the banging jolted something loose inside the latch to un-stick the electrical locking mechanism that disconnects the inside and ouside handles from the lock.
  6. Ahsai
    Did you reconnect the airbag and the clock spring and made sure all electrical connections are tight? Once tripped, you would need something like Durametric to reset it anyway so may as well read the error codes and see what it's complaining about.
  7. Ahsai
    Sounds like one of the timing chains has snapped.
  8. Ahsai
    http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/837617-driver-door-lock-mechanism-stuck-closed-with-door-closed.html
  9. Ahsai
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47239-help-drivers-door-cannot-be-opened/#entry259391
  10. Ahsai
    There were two recent threads about the same problem. One was solved by removing the outer door handle and then attack the latch. The other by banging on the door from outside.
  11. Ahsai
    FYI, the spec fuel pressure is 3.8 bar +/- 0.2 bar with a stationary engine and 3.3 bar +/- 0.2 bar when engine is idling. Sure you want to keep running the engine with the metal flakes you found?
  12. Ahsai
    They come pre-gaped with cardboard sleeves protecting the electrodes. My understanding is the gap distance should be measured between the ground electrode and the center ceramic insulation (and not the central tip).
  13. Ahsai
    Sounds like the switch like you said.
  14. Ahsai
    They do. They just appear as one piece. The center pin can be pushed. In your second photo, you can see the center pin spreading out the rivet at the back to lock the rivet in place.
  15. Ahsai
    Push the center plastic pin in and the rivet can pop loose. Be careful not to lose the pin.
  16. Ahsai
    Does sound like something more is going on. I think it will be wise not to run the engine anymore until the metal flakes have been addressed.
  17. Ahsai
    Anytime, Frank.
  18. Ahsai
    It sounds like a bad ignition switch? Maybe worthwhile just to change it out since it's cheap. It's unlikely you can fix something like this by just throwing parts at it since there are many things that can go wrong. If you plan to troubleshoot further, I would suggest you get Durametric to see if there are any pending codes stored and cam deviations.
  19. Ahsai
    If you look at the photos here, you will see there are two flaps covered by the foam. http://986forum.com/forums/324153-post11.html One flap controls the temp (blocking air from entering the hot radiator that's not shown in the photo) and the other diverts air to diff vents. So if the loose foam is coming from the former, your air temp may get affected. If the foam is coming from the later, air flow will be affected. So depends. I think there's not much you can do at this point other than just wait and see and address it only if needed. It's a HUGE job. The dash has to come out...
  20. Ahsai
    Yes but read the codes first before you swap them and then reset the light and retest. I cannot think of any other reason.Also, you are sure the parts are correct for your engine, right? Bosch?
  21. Ahsai
    Now I have a larger screen to check your plots, I have revised my opinion in the last post in case you didn't notice.
  22. Ahsai
    Excellent plots. The small dots show the actual samples so we are sure these have high enough resolution. If you count the number of times the signal crosses 0.44v, it's about 15 times in 25 seconds in bank1 and 15 times in 20 seconds in bank 2 and the signal amplitude is correct also. In other words, bank1 is swing slower than bank2. If these were plot under similar conditions, then indeed the bank1 sensor appears to act slower so that could be the problem. If the same codes return, I would suggest swapping the two new sensors and see if the codes follow the cuurent bank 1 sensor.
  23. Ahsai
    Ouch! Oh well, at least your intuition was correct and the effort of dropping the engine was not wasted. IMSB went? Hope it's salvageable.
  24. Ahsai
    ^+1...check my SIG :)
  25. Ahsai
    Welcome! I recommend the OE pump from Sunset Porsche. It has composite impellers. The concern on metal impellers is if the pump goes, the impeller will mill the engine block.
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