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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Hi guys, Have you tried this yet? http://www.porschepartshub.com I've been using Sunset many years now as they have great price and top-notch customer service. One of the features I like is they can confirm if the parts fit your car if you provide the VIN. Now with this online ordering site, it should be even more convenient. However, I'm still trying out the "check fit" function, which does not seem to work well for the two parts I tried http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47735-idle-pulley-part-numbers-03-carrera-coupe-manual-transmission/#entry262456
  2. Thanks Loren and John! So the Atlanta Porsche database is correct. The reason for my question was because I just tried the new Sunset online ordering site (Yay!) and per that site, those 997 numbers only fit '05-'08 Carreras.
  3. Hi guys, I need the two pulleys, #12 & 15 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=101-10 According to that site, the correct pulleys for my car are 99710211900 and 99710211800 but they both are 997 part numbers and the pulleys also look different in structure. Do you know what are the correct part numbers for my car? TIA
  4. Maybe the sensors got swapped? You can compare yours with the ones on photo #17 on the DIY link to check their positions (assuming the ones in the photo are correctly positioned).
  5. You can try a new start lock relay to see if that's the problem. Anything else will involve some diagnostic. Power goes from the battery to the ignition switch, then to the start lock relay, then to the starter solenoid. The start lock relay is closed by the DME/immobilizer after it detects your key (the immobilizer pill) is close to the keyhole and the clutch is depressed. So any break in any of those places the starter will not spin. Of course the starter solenoid itself can also be bad. So when it happens, you need to isolate which part is not getting the power.
  6. It can also be a defective plug rather than a loose one. From time to time, we encounter a plug that the ceramic center becomes loose from the metal base, creating a small but noisy leak. Usually, this leaves a distinctive mark on the ceramic section where the exhaust is blowing by it. That's interesting and good to learn about. Thanks!
  7. Yeah, hopefully it's just a loose spark plug!
  8. Will be useful to point out the exact time of the noise in the clip. I think it's most prominent @ 1:30-1:34. Is that right?
  9. Ok, I hear it now. Quite subtle in the clip and it's drowned out by the engine noise. I don't know what that noise is though but if it's there consistently and also at cold start, you may want to remove the serpentine belt and start the engine briefly and see if it's still there. Also want to hand spin all the pulleys to check if they are quiet and smooth when the belt is off. Also may want to check all the heat shields to make sure they are not rattling.
  10. At 54-57s in your clip, the noise sounds like something clicking. The purge valve is a solenoid driven by electrical pulses. It opens and closes quickly to modulate the correct amount of fuel vapor mixed into the intake. Sometimes the valve gets loud when it gets old.
  11. You can try to use a mechanical stethoscope to poke at different components on the engine to identify the noise better. Be careful at the rotating parts of the engine though. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM It sounds a little like the purge valve (the valve attached to Part #14 here) http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=107-10
  12. There's a tab on the other side of the connector that you have to depress really hard with your finger/thumb and then you can wiggle the connector out.
  13. Actually Turbos have A/F pre-cat sensors so you need to read the lambda values (instead of voltage). When extra O2 is present, the lambda should be greater than 1.0
  14. Do you have any scan tools that could read real-time O2 sensor reading? If you do, you can confirm fresh air is truly injected into the exhaust by the sensor reading. If you don't see actual air, that means the SAI air valve(s) are not working correctly. This was taken from my car (non-Turbo '03 C2) but you get the idea.
  15. Should be on only when engine is running. If you have Durametric, you can activate it even when engine is off. If not, you can use a mechanics stethoscope that has a long thin metal rod. Touch the pump with the rod and you should hear it running. Check after 2min (after cold start) and it should be off and you can tell the difference.
  16. No worries at all. Btw, I saw there are stock ones used on the Cayenns. Don't know what size they are though.
  17. Hahnmgh is right. Sleeve clamps are designed to joint two pipes with identical diameter, exactly your case. Just google images of "Porsche sleeve clamps". You need the correct size though. Usually Audi and VW ones are cheaper.
  18. Sounds like so. Why don't you just remove the left hinge (two screws), operate the spoiler switch and see if the drive line moves as it should?
  19. The parts inside seem to be not available, at least on the P part catalog. Your best bet may be junkyard and ebay.
  20. Sounds like something is broken on the left side of the mechanism. The curved pipes are driven by a flex rod that's connected to the spoiler motor. This write up is for 997 but I bet 996 is very similar if not identical. http://www.gregandjeni.com/2012/09/997-spoiler-rebuild/ http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/723817-997-rear-spoiler-drive-assembly-rebuild.html
  21. You may want to check this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/21656-pst2-piwis-durametric-tool-registry/
  22. Maybe you can plot the pre-cat O2 sensor voltage on both banks and see how they look? They should swing between 0.2-0.7v at about once a second at idle.
  23. Maybe after cleanup, just leave the cover off and drive it for a few days and recheck to see exactly where the oil is sipping from? Sounds like gasket. Can also use a torque wrench to check the bolts.
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