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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. 13.2v at idle is a low. What's the reading when fully warmed up and with a/c and low beam on? It should be between 13.5-14v at all times even with some good loading. You will need voltage drop tests to figure out whether the alternator is not generating enough or you lose voltage on the cable(s) http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47504-troubleshooting-low-voltage-and-charging-issues/?hl=%2Bvoltage+%2Bdrop+%2Btest
  2. That's odd. The one in your link is from variocam 3.4L but you said you have an '04, which should be identical to AWDGuy's photo, which is a 3.6L variocam+.
  3. It would definitely help if you can push the engine to the right. I never tried that and you probably will need to slide your jack in from the side so the jack is more free to move the engine left and right.
  4. I hear you. With the left intake removed and the AOS pushed up, I was able to remove it from the top using my left hand reaching deep down. Later I was testing something and I was also able to remve it from the bottom. It's very tight at the bottom and if you have big hands, it will be impossible. No, I didn't push the engine. Mine is an '03 C2 and I wonder if your C4 tip is different and tighter.
  5. That's good news. The clutch switch could fail intermittently when it starts to go bad. You may want to replace it with a new one and make sure you hear it clicking at the end of the clutch pedal travel. There's some small adjustment that can be made on the mounting screw. The switch does provide some safety if you accidentally crank the car when in gear.
  6. Yes, fuses are at the driver's foot-well. Most likely you need a new battery anyway so may as well put one in and retry. Deeply discharged battery most likely cannot be revived.
  7. Have you tried jumping the clutch safety switch? Can the key fobs arm/disarm the alarm? Checked fuses c1 to c4? How long has the battery been dead?
  8. I think the next steps will be verifying sparks and fuel pressure then.
  9. Looks like fuses C1 to C4, same as 996 n/a.
  10. I think that constitues bouncing. Have you checked the fuses to the fuel pump and the DME? Just thinking for you what easy things to check before the fuel pressure test...
  11. Not sure how easy it is on your car but maybe at least check the new CPS connector to see if it's fully plugged in? Does the tach needle bounce while you're cranking the engine?
  12. Nice photos and good progress. What are the symptoms again and do you plan to re-sleeve and rebuild this engine?
  13. Sorry to hear your loss. That area is close to the cats and they are like $2k EACH :( With 176k miles, most likely the repair cost will exceed the value of the car.
  14. BTW, I found some 3.6L piston specs in the same website. Maybe handy some day :) http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/911_carrera_cabriolet_(997)/f6-3.6l/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/cylinder_block_assembly/piston_engine/component_information/specifications/page_1168/
  15. Very cool and keep the photos coming please. It's rare to see a 3.6 tear down thread. You could be the first on Renntech! :)
  16. Where does the oil come from?
  17. I think that's the spacer for the a/c compressor (the bolt at the back of the compressor).
  18. Diagrams of the tool on the engine: http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/911_carrera_cabriolet_(997)/f6-3.6l/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/camshaft_lifters_and_push_rods/camshaft_engine/component_information/service_and_repair/removal_and_replacement/page_1091/ http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/911_carrera_cabriolet_(997)/f6-3.6l/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/camshaft_lifters_and_push_rods/camshaft_engine/component_information/service_and_repair/removal_and_replacement/page_1097/
  19. I borrowed a pic from this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32451-engine-rattle/# which shows the timing actuator on the intake cam. Note the engine is not a variocam+ though because the intake cam is single lobe. However, it has the same timing actuator as in our variocam+ 3.6L Here's my understanding of the tool. Note the BIG hex (part of the timing actuator sprocket) and the center bolt on it. The cam tool JFP showed is used to hold that big hex so you can unbolt the center bolt to seperate the sprocket from the intake cam. Similar to a crankshaft pulley holding tool that holds the pulley in place when you loosen the center bolt on the pulley. The elongated piece on the tool is adjusted to rest on the edge of the head case (exhaust side) to get leverage and lock the tool in place. This way the tool can be used even when the engine is in the car. If the engine is removed from the car, all you need is a regular tool to hold that BIG hex in place.
  20. Btw, the Bentley manual is a joke on this one and most of the detailed instructions on the web is for mkI. I couldn't find good mkII instructions or I found some but they did'nt work for me.
  21. That's correct. I wasted a lot of time going from the top with some success (I got one of the hex allen bolts of the AOS from the top) but it's not a reliable way. Regarding getting the hands there, you can't especially if you have big hands. You prwtty much have to work with your fingers. When down there facing the rear of the car, try to slide your right hand (fingers) from the side above cyl #3 to reach the bottom aos hose and the most difficult hex bolt.Let me know if you have more questions and good luck!
  22. The rear plenum rubber sleeves are designed to LOCK the rear plenum and they won't shift left or right no matter how hard you try to twist them as long as both the left and right intake manifolds are still bolted firmly on the engine.
  23. There's no need to remove the rear plenum BEFORE you remove the left intake manifold. Please, just read the link I sent above for this exact reason (to save people time). The rear plenum will come out with the left intake manifold in step 16.
  24. Have you tried jump starting it using another car?
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