Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,804

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    If it changes with revs, I doubt it's the SAI pump. However, while we are on the subject of SAI, I have codes p0491, and p0492 that reoccur. These are secondary air injection bank 1 and bank 2. I'm thinking about replacing every hose + the reservoir. Looks like you can access all of that if you remove the intake plenums? Any other ideas? It's strange in that I only get the codes when it's above freezing. I've been able to clear the codes, and not have them come back until the temp reaches about 34º on a few different occasions, so I don't think it's a coincidence. If you can read O2 sensor voltage from the scanner, you may want to try some diagnostic here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47862-help-diagnosing-possible-sai-problem/?p=263337 It will be a lot easier to diagnose if you can see what the DME sees (hence complains about). I suspect your SAI changeover valve is bad or you have a vacuum leak somewhere. To overhaul those vacuum components, check out my thread here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/849770-mkii-996-vacuum-line-routing-and-related-components.html You only need to remove the alternator and the rear (rear of the car) intake plenum.
  2. Ahsai
    I highly doubt you will miss the intermix. Coolant will show up as froth in the oil and oil will make milkshake in the coolant. Sounds like you have neither. You could just top up the coolant to the level between min and max when engine is cold and keep an eye on it. Make sure you have the latest coolant cap. If you are losing coolant and it's not in the oil, you need to pressure test the cooling system to locate the leak. Mayo in oil filler tube is only condensation from driving in cold and humid weather and the engine is not hot enough (e.g., long freeway driving) to burn off the water vapor. Nothing to do with intermix.
  3. Ahsai
    You may want to remove the serpentine belt, hand spin each pulley and see if they have any free play and noise. Can also run the engine briefly and see if the noise is from the engine.
  4. Ahsai
    You're right, I see it now after I checked some pics of the sump.
  5. Ahsai
    So there seems to be no warning. I guess we should also inspect the oil pickup screen at every oil change, maybe using an inspection camera via the drain hole if possible.
  6. Ahsai
    Power flow : battery-> ignition switch -> relay -> starter solenoid. You have a break somewhere along the line. Try this. Remove the relay and see if you get 12v on pin 30 on the relay socket when you turn the key to crank. If you don't, it's likely your ignition switch is bad. If you do get 12v, it's likely your relay is bad. To verify, check continuity between pin 30 and 87 of the relay. They should close when the relay is energized. If that checks out, you may have a wiring issue between the relay and the starter solenoid (much less likely). If the relay is bad, you can temporarily put a short and fat jumper (awg16 or thicker) between pin 30 and 87 of the relay socket to start the car. A thin jumper will not work as the solenoid needs 30~40A to operate.
  7. Ahsai
    So the chain of events is Worn timing chain guide shedding bits -> the bits clogged the oil pickup -> low oil pressure -> massive oil consumption + toasted bearings + scored cylinders? Did you notice the low oil pressure when the engine was still running?
  8. Ahsai
    They all have identical part number and all made in Germany.
  9. Ahsai
    Thanks for the kind words, Martin. Yes, my new AOS sucks very well now. Just tested it yesterday and it's still between 4-5" of water so I'm happy. My last new one lasted only 1k miles (in fact it was bad out of the box sucking 10" of water once I installed it) and I hope this one will last longer. The bummer is my old one (9yr 50k miles) was still working well. I replaced it only as a PM.
  10. Ahsai
    Hi Martin, thanks! All those check points and numbers are from my experience based on both general automotive charging system knowledge, and measurements from multiple alternators, regulators, and cables at different temperatures, load, etc. specific to our cars. I also verified the expected voltage drop by computing the resistance on the cables based on their conductivity and physical dimensions. Also usually when there's a problem, the measurement will be significantly out of range of the above numbers.
  11. Ahsai
    I always recommend this handy tool to monitor the voltage. This is very useful as it shows you the voltage in real-time extremely accurately. It can also show you any battery drain overnight if you leave it plugged in and check the voltage in the morning. http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427393920&sr=8-1&keywords=inova+battery+tester
  12. Ahsai
    It's normal to drop 0.2 to 0.3v when you turn on the a/c (due to the load from the compressor and blower fan). Your drop is on the high side. With a/c and low beam on 12.5 to 13v is low for sure. The only question now is whether it's your alternator (regulator most likely) or it's one of the cables (e.g., ground, the starter "y" cable). You can reproduce the above low voltage condition, then measure the voltage between the back of the alternator (the alternator output) and its casing. If it's below 13.5v, the alternator is bad. Otherwise, you will have to perform the other voltage drop tests I mentioned before to pinpoint which cable is bad.
  13. Ahsai
    I stumbled on these while surfing http://europeanpartssolution.com/products/over-sized-bearings/ Seems to be something new and I wonder if anyone has tried these. [Edit] Looks like they are available only for MkI engines though.
  14. Ahsai
    Keep the photos coming! How many miles on the engine and was it rebuilt before? The main bearings look pretty worn out. The thrust bearing On the left seems to be facing the wrong direction. Was it flipped before the photo was taken?
  15. Ahsai
    Yes, there's an o-ring inside that was hardened like plastic. It's not available separately so I just bought the whole elbow (not expensive) and that fixed the leak. Part number and photo added here http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1483659/
  16. Ahsai
    Looks like a coolant vent line that's supposed to connect to the coolant tank. The coolant tank should have 2 hoses connected to it on the top and one hose connected at the bottom. Can you show a shot that shows the other side of the coolant tank?
  17. Ahsai
    +1. Also, it looks like the PO also plugged a hose (looks like coolant) with a big bolt on the upper left in the photo? Wonder what that's about.
  18. Ahsai
    Porschepartshub is Sunset and imo it's the best. Low price and low shipping charges.
  19. Ahsai
    Update: after ~1,000 miles, the crankcase vacuum went up to 24" H2O so I decided to swap a new one it. Took only 4hrs this time including a 15min break. Also took the opportunity to replace some spring type hose clamps on the AOS with OE spring clamps. Crankcase vacuum is a very nice 4~5" H2O now and I'm happy. Still not sure why the previous new one was bad out of the box. May do a post mortem later when I have time.
  20. Ahsai
    Note the switch can still be bad even if it clicks. That happened to me. What do you mean by you get current but not 12v? How did you measure the current?
  21. Ahsai
    Good choice...good choice..I'm drooling now :)
  22. Ahsai
    This is why the should both be tested in tandem; a bad CPS would also give you no fuel pressure, but if you then jumper the fuel pump at the relay panel, the pump should run, even with a bad, or no CPS. Yeah, maybe the shop just stopped there after they found a bad CPS....would be interesting to ask the shop exactly what tests they performed on each visit.
  23. Ahsai
    That fits the symptoms but it's quite a coincidence that you had the fuel pump failed right after the crank position sensor failure... could the crank position sensor be a misdiagnosis? I guess you'll never find out..
  24. Ahsai
    I don't quite remember whether I have that bracket but it felt like a lot of metal around that area. I didn't have much trouble undoing that lower vent hose from the top once I lifted up the AOS a bit with all the other lines still connected. Are you sure you squeeze the plastic rings pretty good to disengage the ring lock before trying to pull it out?
  25. Ahsai
    Nice photos! Just wondering if you had low oil pressure reading before the failure? The oil pick up seems to be clogged by ~40%. Wonder if those are worn chain rail material clogging the oil pick up, which leads to oil starvation then cylinder scoring.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.