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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    That is interesting. Wonder what's the correlation there.
  2. Ahsai
    How many miles you've put on the car since then? It may take some time for the P0491/P0492 codes to come back after a DME reset.
  3. Ahsai
    Excellent and thanks for closing this.
  4. Ahsai
    Just unplug the two wires on the start lock microswitch and then connect the two wires with a jumper.
  5. Ahsai
    Take your time to measure them. That's the only way to be 100% sure. A bad connection/wire will show up like a sore thumb with voltage drop test.
  6. Ahsai
    First don't trust the look. The starter cable can look shinny and still fails. Ask me how I know. You can use a stiff insulated wire like this to measure the alternator output http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44652-alternator-terminal-b-access/?hl=weapon#entry241245 Connect one test probe to this wire and the other to the alternator casing. It should read 14-14.5v with a/c and low beam ON. Then with a/c and low beam ON, connect one test probe to the back of the alternator (using the same wire) and the other probe to the engine jump start post. If you see 0.2v or higher, your starter "Y" cable is bad. If not, connect the test probes to the alternator casing and the engine brace or any exhaust component. This tests your ground strap and it should be very small ~0.2v or less.
  7. Ahsai
    I have nothing to contribute but did you write your last post in German then ran it through "google translate"? :)
  8. Ahsai
    No problem at all. I found one of his posts here talking about it http://986forum.com/forums/393408-post9.html
  9. Ahsai
    I think Jake had explained before the 3rd gen bigger bearing when stronger at regular street driving rpm, the ball speed will be too high at higher rpm (track use). Bigger bearing means the balls will have to travel faster around the IMS at the same rpm.
  10. Ahsai
    Good job! That's why they use smoke :) Hope that fixes the idle problem.
  11. Ahsai
    Sounds like the alternator to me. Check out my write up here and do test #5 first, which tells you whether your alternator is bad. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47504-troubleshooting-low-voltage-and-charging-issues/#entry265666 Then use a jump start cable to connect the engine brace behind the rear bumper to the brass bolt on the airbox close to the engine lid lock. That will bypass a bad ground strap.
  12. Ahsai
    The 997 part number is OK. Lots of our updated parts have 997 numbers. Check with your indy to see if he measured the voltage directly at the output of the alternator (which is very difficult to access). It's possible the alternator is good but you lose voltage over that infamous "Y" starter cable.
  13. Ahsai
    Sounds like it should connect to the intake plenum, which supplies the vacuum (parts 10 and 20 in post #1).
  14. Ahsai
    Second what Loren suggested. Also check the battery cables, terminals to make sure the connectors are tight. Also, check the ground cable on the engine right side behind the right rear wheel.
  15. Ahsai
    Have you checked the battery and how did you rule out the alternator?
  16. Ahsai
    Thanks John for the info. Jake's post is post #39 here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/863686-noticed-a-rod-knock-noise-in-my-car-3.html
  17. Ahsai
    That may be true too but I doubt that's the root cause as the OP mentioned when he turned the key, all the electrical things work and he could hear the fuel pump. That indicates the battery at least have some power/voltage and the ignition switch is getting power from it. It's just not sending power to pin 30 of the starter relay.
  18. Ahsai
    I think to tell whether the noise is from a lifter or from a scored cylinder, Jake Raby suggested using a stethoscope to listen on the cam cover and on where the engine block meets the head. If the latter is louder, it's a scored cylinder. John, any reco for distinguishing lifter noise and scored cylinder knocks?
  19. Ahsai
    I would suggest you retrace your work. Could be just the socket not fully seated. Remove the electrical connector to the ignition switch and find the solid yellow wire on the connector. That wire connects directly to pin 30. Check continuity between the connector and pin 30. If there's continuity, it's almost certain your switch is bad.
  20. Ahsai
    Also, if you meant the ignition switch, you can check if the electrical connector is still fully seated. Maybe it's loose.
  21. Ahsai
    Power flow : battery-> ignition switch -> relay -> starter solenoid. You have a break somewhere along the line. Try this. Remove the relay and see if you get 12v on pin 30 on the relay socket when you turn the key to crank. If you don't, it's likely your ignition switch is bad. If you do get 12v, it's likely your relay is bad. To verify, check continuity between pin 30 and 87 of the relay. They should close when the relay is energized. If that checks out, you may have a wiring issue between the relay and the starter solenoid (much less likely). If the relay is bad, you can temporarily put a short and fat jumper (awg16 or thicker) between pin 30 and 87 of the relay socket to start the car. A thin jumper will not work as the solenoid needs 30~40A to operate. Tested the above. No +12v on pin 30 of the relay socket. Does that make it the starter switch? What if the battery does not have enough amps? It was tested at NAPA at 750CCA, but the headlights are dim. I replaced the starter switch only two weeks ago. Thanks, -Don No 12v on pin 30 when you turn the key to crank, meaning 0v right? If yes, then your ignition switch or the wiring between the ignition switch and pin 30 has a break. The former is much more likely. By starter switch, do you mean ignition switch? If so, it's also the last thing touched... A weak battery may not be able to energize the solenoid but at least you should get some voltage on pin 30.
  22. Ahsai
    Ok, in that case you may want to give your VIN to the dealer and ask for the part number of the pulley.
  23. Ahsai
    Have you tried throttle body recalibration? i.e., turn key to last position before cranking and leave it there 60s (foot off the gas pedal). Then remove key. Also did you check for any air leak (smoke test) on the engine?
  24. Ahsai
    Not 100% sure on this but per Porschepartshub and autoatlanta, it does seem like '99s only use the plain pulley 99660315156, regardless of the transmission. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=902-05 http://www.porschepartshub.com/auto-parts/1999/porsche/911/carrera-trim/3-4l-h6-gas-engine/electrical-cat/alternator-scat
  25. Ahsai
    BTW, your observation of 34F (with some margin) is correct since the pre-conditions for those diagnostic codes are: • Intake air temperature 4.5 - 60 ° C • Engine temperature 4.5 - 102 °C
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