Ahsai

The 500mA draw was measured at least an hour after the car had been off/armed?

:thumbup:

You're welcome! Glad you have everything back up running well.

When the engine is runnng, the oil can splash onto the balls of the bearing lubricating them. The hot oil vapor will do the same.

Sorry I wasn't clear. I meant if you have any shots of the new case that shows the other side (the TDC side) of the case.

Beautiful! That's 5 large right there! Do you have some shots of the head side of the cylinders?

Sounds like emission readiness flags. With the current various codes, you won't be able to pass these tests or the SMOG check. You can ignore these for now and just focus on the codes, which pretty much tell you MAF wiring issue and the engine is running lean. May also have O2 sensor problem in bank 2 (P0150). The rest of the codes are NOT pointing to any O2 sensors. Rather, they are reporting what the O2 sensors see (extreme lean condition).

Looks like the DRL relay/module supplies power to the running lights whenever the engine is running. You can probably just remove the relay/module (socket #6 and #7 in foot well kick panel) to disable this feature. However, not sure if the cluster will flag any errors but it's free to try and it's reversible :)

BTW, you said "Torque says that the o2 heaters work, but that the sensors themselves were not Green or Red, it gave a yellow undefined value. " Where did you get these readings? I've never seen color coded readings in Torque. Can you show us a screenshot?

It's always helpful to give us all the codes you have :) Looks like MAF wiring issue. If you use Torque, the MAF reading should be around 3.8g/s at idle with a/c off and engine warmed up. Everything also points to lean on both banks. I would address the MAF first before anything else. P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor – Above Upper Limit Below lower limit. – Open circuit. – Short circuit to ground. P0150 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) – Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase Crack in ceramic material Reference air polluted Short circuit in signal wire to sensor ground (intercore short circuit). – Oxygen sensor – Wiring harness – DME control module P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) – Rich Threshold Fuel/air mixture is so lean that sensing has reached its rich threshold. – Intake air system leaking. – Fuel pressure too low. – Volume supply of fuel pump too low. – Fuel injectors fouled.

What codes are back now? If they are 1124 and 1126, please re-read post #3.

ECSTuning seems to have a better deal http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1493894/ They carry the ND8 oil too. http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2703169/?gclid=CLrIwdOD9MUCFRSEfgod2nwApg

Yup, they look like the same type. They should work.

Note that you can't use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the LED light directly as it's not a pure resistive load. You will need to measure the current it draws and then derive its resistance. Most people just wire a 8 ohm 50w load resistor to each light in parallel and that should solve the problem. It's a good approximation because each LED light draws a lot less than 21w. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-50W-8Ohm-LED-Load-Resistor-Blinker-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulb-Fix-Hyper-Flash-/371304409490?hash=item567377a992&vxp=mtr

The quickest way is to get a scanner that can read the O2 sensor voltage (any generic OBDII will do). Watch the signals of all 4 sensors so you can see what the DME sees and doesn't like about.

For iOS, the OBDII fusion app is great for daignostic purposes. Hopefully you could catch the problem in action e.g., if you hear the pump running but yet the O2 readings don't drop, you know the exhaust is not getting the injected air, which points to a vacuum/valve problem.

Best parts diagrams are on autoatlanta.com You should find all the parts you need here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/porsche_911_parts.php Yes, I think it's wise to just replace all the vacuum components including the vacuum reservoir since the parts are relatively cheap and they are prone to leak anyway. You can eliminate a lot and has a good chance to fix the problem too.

Btw, do you use an Android or iphone? You can get a wireless OBDII adaptor that can read and plot the four O2 sensors when you are driving. I have a smartphone holder attached to my windshield for this purpose.

Yea, this one looks great. Seems to me the cold start is fine. Do you drive on highways a lot and the SAI pump will run after exiting the highway?

I see corrosion on the pins. You may want to clean those with Deoxit.

I agree the bank 1 precat sensor voltage looks strange between 55s to 90s when it should have followed the green dots. Your plot and mine are very similar except for this bank 1 precat sensor reading, which did go low and merge with the green dots after 90s. Somehow it just took a lot longer to get there. From the plot, we can conclude the following components are working. - SAI pump - SAI change-over valve - All O2 sensors (maybe except for bank 1 precat) - Both cats - O2 sensors all have expected range of voltage (maybe except bank 1 precat) Based on this, I think either the bank 1 precat sensor is acting up, or it's working correctly but somehow bank 1 is not getting enough air from the injection pump. To eliminate the former, You can swap the precat sensors between the two banks and relog during cold start. If the problem now shifts to bank 2, it's likely the sensor is bad. However, if it gives you the same reading on bank 1, it means the problem is bank 1 not getting enough air, which will be harder to diagnose. There is a combo SAI valve sitting close to bank 1. It's purpose is to let the air from the SAI pump to pass on to both banks and it's a one-way valve. It's difficult to explain why bank 1 is getting less air. However, all of the above could have only explained P0491. Why you also get P0492? Could this be an intermittent problem that some common part for both banks doesn't work sometimes (e.g., SAI pump, change-over valve)? If you clear the codes, does it take long to reproduce both of the codes consistently? Do you always hear the SAI pump running when cold? I suggest taking one more cold start log to see how consistent this peculiar bank 1 precat reading is first before you swap the O2 sensors if you're up for it. The precat sensors are quite accessible.

If you lower the engine as much as it goes, you could get that aos bolt from the bottom with a mini ratchet and 5mm hex bit like I described in the first post of this thread. You attack from the top of the cam cover around cyl #3, directly from the side.

Btw, you just rediscovered the whole reason I started this thread. I had problem removing that bolt when the AOS was still installed. The u-channel of the AOS is blocking any socket on that intake manifold bolt. You could probably use a wrench but it will be very slow. So I unbolted the AOS and lift it up and that allowed me to put a socket on that intake manifold bolt. Basically we have two choices, either fight that intake manifold bolt like you are doing now or fight the rear most AOS bolt when bolting down the AOS.

Have you tried a short 10mm 12-pt/open wrench? A cheap one from harborfreight is good because it's shorter than the regular ones. It's unlikely you can use a socket on that bolt with the AOS already installed.

Have you played with the wifi setting in Torque pro? It supports both wifi and bluetooth.