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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    My guess is also sound dampening.
  2. Ahsai
    Any reco on good machine shops that work on (or specialize in) Porsche watercooled engines? Looking for a shop to do M96 heads and crankshaft reconditioning.
  3. Ahsai
    2002-2204 should have almost identical engines (except a small difference in crank case venting in the '02 model). The IMS and IMSB are the same. To replace the IMSB (I assume you meant the bearing and not the shaft), there's no need to split the case. You only need to split the case if you need to replace the shaft itself or your engine has a bigger bearing, which requires splitting the case or boring the IMS engine case hole to make it bigger. The larger bearing doesn't come with the stock 02-04 engines though (maybe on a reman engine though). IMS retrofit should run about $1.5k (depending on the type of bearing you choose) just for the IMSB but will add more parts depends if you need a new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, etc. Major difference is MkII use the single row IMSB (most MkI use the double row which is more robust) but you can address that by retrofitting a single row LN ceramic bearing or the latest Single Row Pro (which actually has 2 rows of bearings to increase its load carrying capacity) http://imsretrofit.com/gen-2-single-row-ims-retrofit/
  4. Ahsai
    Sounds like something is wrong in the evap system. Maybe it's obvious but you won't be able to pass smog until it's fixed.
  5. Ahsai
    Yes, that bolt is a bear. Please see my post #2 here for my way to remove it. There could be other ways but this works for me. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47759-mkii-aos-diy-sanity-check/?fromsearch=1
  6. Ahsai
    Yeah, I wonder if this is the LN unit.
  7. Ahsai
    I may have found the pic...in the middle of the page here http://www.porscheenginebuilding.com/ims_upgrade.asp
  8. Ahsai
    Oh wow, that sounds interesting. I wish they had some pics of the said bearing and I wonder what's the recommended replacement interval of that, if any.
  9. Ahsai
    John, when you said triple row, are you referring to the gear/sprocket on the flywheel side of the IMS? Or are you referring to some new design of the LN bearing?
  10. Ahsai
    1) If the leak is coming from the RMS, all you need is a new RMS seal. However, if the leak is coming from the IMS flange, that may be an early sign of IMSB failure. Unfortunately there's no way to tell for sure which one it is until you open it up and take a look. If it's the IMS, you may as well replace the IMSB. 2) See 1) 3) I personally would not take it to the track with this condition. Not so much about the small leak but more about what's the potential underlying issue of the engine. 4) There's no connector there so not sure which connector you are referring to. Also never heard of the car will never be the same once transmission/engine is removed. I've heard of that comment on body shop repair after a serious accident.
  11. Ahsai
    Makes sense. Good luck with the repair!
  12. Ahsai
    That's good know. Is it required to send back your broken IMS as a core?
  13. Ahsai
    Agree that 400 PSIG sounds high for 90F ambient. I wonder if you have overcharged the system. I think the best will be to do a full evac, vacuum and refill and go from there.
  14. Ahsai
    Did he run the oscilloscope test as described here? http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48439-p1341-code-engine-cuts-off-at-4k-rpms/?hl=p1341 Also when you said the electrical lines were swapped, did you mean the tech made an extension to connect the Bank 2 solenoid connector to the Bank 1 solenoid. So basically use the Bank 2 wiring to power the Bank 1 solenoid. He then used Durametric to trigger the Bank 2 solenoid and observed that the Bank 1 solenoid was indeed triggered but the Bank 1 timing adv/retard reaction was slower than expected?
  15. Ahsai
    P1126 is most likely intake air leak as you said. Have you checked the oil filler tube for cracks? Is it very (too) easy to remove the oil filler cap? You can monitor the MAF voltage using Durametric. Going by memory here...key ON engine OFF should be about 1.0v and idling warmed up engine should be about 1.3v. Your Bosch MAF p/n looks correct per http://www.boschautoparts.com/
  16. Ahsai
    Usually it will make itself known if it's faulty so if you don't have CEL or other symptoms, I wouldn't worry about it.
  17. Ahsai
    Hi John, Yes, there's nothing on the outside of the expansion valve. As you charge (refill) via the low pressure port, the pressure will increase on the high pressure side as well so that's normal. The valve actuation (regulation) is all done by the internal parts of the valve. Are you experiencing problems currently with the a/c or you're just curious of how it works? BTW, the document in the link above, pdf page 16 explains how the expansion valve works and pdf page 87 shows the normal high and low side pressure as a function of ambient temperature.
  18. Ahsai
    Classic RMS/IMS leak. Will need to remove the transmission to check both.
  19. Ahsai
    Any paying member can access this document, which will answer all your a/c related questions. http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/file/1663-after-sales-training-climate-control-systems-diagnosis-repairpdf/
  20. Ahsai
    Maybe I misunderstood you. When you put a new fuse in, does the fuse blow right away the first time the fan tries to come on? Or the fan will work for sometime but the fuse blows later? If it blows when the fan tries to turn on, I would suspect a seized fan or there's a short to ground.
  21. Ahsai
    Congrats on the retirement :) C10 should be 30A. You put in a 30A fuse? Maybe its bearing is bad or its sluggish, which increase its load and in turn increases the current draw.
  22. Ahsai
    Thanks, John. That makes sense.
  23. Ahsai
    Oh yeah, you're right. The pdfs are secured and printing is not allowed.
  24. Ahsai
    Hi John, assume the retaining tool is in place but the cams are NOT at TDC, do you think it's OK to back off the CAPs and the retaining tool alternately and slowly to release the pressure? Or we have to rotate the cams to TDC first before undoing the caps and the retaining tool?
  25. Ahsai
    Ahsai, if my reading is correct the 3.6L has journal bearings both integral to the cover but also attached to the head. Will the bearing caps in the head not support the camshaft? Scroll up above to what fpb111 said. Alternatively, maybe I could just turn the camshafts manually by hand until they're at a "no stress" point. I assume they'll happily stay there. Yes, there are 4 standalone bearings supporting HALF of each cam shaft. Then 4 more journals on the cam cover to support the second half (the right half in the photo below). Yes it you can turn the cams manually, you could bring them to the TDC overlap cyl#1 position.
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