Ahsai

Clark, does your fan(s) look like this?

Actually your posts and buzuki's made me search so I also learned something new :) This is very similar to the dreaded BMW electrical water pump. The mechanical motor parts are fine but the electronics within is toasted. It's not clear from the German article how to test the fans though. I would think one can use Durametric to activate the fan(s) manually. I always thought that device was a relay, just called by another name, as Porsche uses relays on their other earlier vehicles. After reading up on this device, apparently this new control unit eliminates the need for resistors to control fan speeds (which were always troublesome), and is also being used in the later cars as well. Learn something new every day. Thanks Ahsai. On the downside, instead of a $20 relay and a couple of resistors, now you need to jump for a $700+ fan assembly. No, John means a simple relay is $20. The electronic modules of these fans are built-in and are not meant to be serviced/replaced so if they break, the whole fan will need to be replaced.

Per the wiring diagram buzuki posted, it does look like the fans don't use relays but rather have solid state circuits within them and are controlled directly by the fan control module. From this document, it sounds like your problem http://cardiagnostics.be/-now/Hella-repairsolutions/Porsche,%20Cayenne,%204,5%20l%20V8%20mit%20Motorcode%20M48.pdf Google translated here if you don't read German (I don't). "Transferability: This case depends on the installed cooling fans. This affects only Vehicles with two fans (dual fan module). This can also at Cayenne models Specialty engines (and diesel) occur. Problem: The vehicle will not start anymore because of a deep-discharged battery. The driver reported unusually frequent and long run of the radiator fan. Fault memory: It is the fault code 16864 / P0480 saved, equivalent to 'Radiator fan control 1, electrical fault '. Tip of the Technical Call Centers: These cases are piling up. In some cases, off both radiator fan even in a parked vehicle. Then run until the capacity the battery is exhausted. The reason for the continuous operation are manufacturing-related dust inclusions in the control unit of the cooling fan 2 (smaller fans), the well Radiator fan 1 controls. Troubleshooting: According to the manufacturer the complete dual fan module needs to be replaced"

Right, e-gas has no idle control valve. You may want to try a throttle body recalibration. Turn the key to the last position before cranking and let it sit there for 2min without touching the gas pedal. Then remove key and it's done. It will also be good to verify the coolant temp reading (via an obdii scanner) when the engine is rough.

Photo of the solenoids in post #17 here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/894568-replace-chain-adjusters-and-solenoid-attached-to-tensioner-2.html What are the cam deviations on both banks and are they rock steady throughout the rev range? Can you monitor the O2 sensors' voltage reading with your scanner?

When you bleed, did you make sure the brake fluid reservoir is full at all times and there's no air introduced into the hydraulic lines? In my '03 996, there's a separate partition for the clutch at the rear portion of the reservoir, which can run empty pretty easily if you don't keep an eye on it when bleeding the clutch.

Yes, the new inspection consists of reading the obdii readiness flags (misfires, evap, cats, O2 sensors, etc) and also a visual inspection.

AOS failure is a possibility and the way to verify is to measure the crankcase vacuum using a manometer (either home made with clear rubber tubes filled with oil or a digital one for ~$US40). It should read ~5 inches of water. The other thing you can try is to swap the precat O2 sensors between banks if you still suspect the sensor. If you have an air leak, your short term fuel trim should be positive and not negative though. You can also check if the variocam+ solenoids (mounted on the cam cover) to see if their brackets are loose or the seals are leaking. Air leak through the seals can cause misfires. Without Durametric or Porsche scanner, you're under-equipped to deal with these codes. Misfires on a single bank could be lifters, variocam+, air leak, etc.

I use the 996 version of these from Carnewal and have no issues passing the CA smog. http://www.carnewal.com/products/P97/p97126/P97-1-Exchange-Sport-Cats

- Also, do the symptoms show up only when the engine is wet?

Some questions: - Do you have access to Durametric? Will be good to check for any pending/Porsche-specific codes. Also good to check for vitals like cam deviations, misfires in real-time, MAF, fuel trims, O2 sensor readings, etc. - The short term fuel trim -23% was on which bank? What are the short term and long term fuel trims on each banks? - Have you checked if the coil connectors are engaged properly (clicked when installed)? - If you remove the oil filler cap, do you feel some suction or no suction?

Have you checked the coils?

A socket and a 4" extension will work (all 1/4" drive).

I warned you about the coolant, didn't I :) Glad you guys can now enjoy a leak-free engine.

No worries about my questions. For some reason I thought you were doing troubleshooting yourself. I suggest bringing the car back to the indy for further diagnostic. P1130 usually is air leak after the MAF but your indy should know how to check it anyway.

It costs a lot to run a site like this so without members' contribution, this site will fold. A lot of members got help and donated in joy after their problems are solved but of course that's up to the person. I'm sure Hilux's comments are just friendly suggestions in good will. I don't think he benefits from any membership fee. Now re some of your questions, the wiring diagram for the WHOLE car is here http://www.ganino.com/games/Porsche%...01999-2000.pdf The spoiler circuits are in sheet 8. Access to the microswitches and spoiler diassembly are here http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/723817-997-rear-spoiler-drive-assembly-rebuild.html Your Durametric readings look good to me. The only thing that's marginal is camshaft position deviation of +6 degrees @crank. The spec is +/- 6 degrees so you are at the edge BUT if it's truly a positive 6 degrees as opposed to negative 6, I think you should be fine. You have some mindset problem I think. First; Without getting any information or support; why should I be a contributing member? Forum's are on the internet to share knowledge and information and help each member of course for FREE. Otherwise it is stupid. Then you can go to a dealer and pay money to them to ask something... If it is just about MONEY in your mind; you have to do sign up with PAYMENT like MHHAUTO forums Then without getting money; you will not let anyone to be a member. I don't want to such expensive books just some small info requests. If no one writes any answer (although a kind person not like you; answered already...) there are several forums on internet. Actually; you seem very funny person; we need these kinds of persons on Earth ahaa

You should go buy a lottery ticket :) Replacing the whole shaft isthe proper fix since its also damaged by the disintegrating bearing.

Wow, took you 2 yrs :) You don't want to use the gasket on top of the o-ring. The o-ring alone will seal fine. Try scotch brite and no acid! As long as the surface is flat (felt by fingers), you'll be fine. 8.5ftlb sounds right as long as you use in-lb torque wrench. In case of leak, clean the area well then drain the coolant into a clean pan and reuse.

What scanner you use and can it log sennsor reading? What are the fuel trims on both banks?

Very nice. May want to consider changing the other postcat (the red line) sometime as well. Compared to the new sensor, it's quite slow :)

No conflicts at all the way I see it. John (JFP) said SOME of the cars in those yrs so it doesn't mean all of them will behave the same. John is a pro and a shop owner so I don't doubt his comments/knowledge a bit :)

Yes, the reason is the DME relies on the O2 sensors to detect if fresh air is actually detected at the exhaust during cold start. In this case, one of the sensors is marginal. Bad enough to not reading the O2 correctly during cold start but not bad enough to trip a persistent O2 sensor code. I also tend to agree with the OP's explanation of why a marginal sensor prevents the SAI readiness from being set.

Btw, your evap readiness should also set in a few days if you drive both local and highway traffic everyday.

Very well done! Your systematic approach and perseverance paid off.

Glad to see finally you got it fixed! I think it should be fine but if it runs into any issues, you can always fix it by cutting (orphaning) the blue wire between the x2/3 plug and the cluster and ABS, then adding your own wires to connect the x2/3 connector, cluster, and ABS unit together. Will be more work to fish the wires through and dash and firewall though.