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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I think you are correct the red line is part of the reason your SAI readiness is not set. I see two issues from the plots: 1) the spike on both pre-cat sensor at the early stage. Since both sensors read the same spike, that tells me you have problems in the changeover valve and/or the SAI combo valve. Could be some sticky or clogged valves. 2) the red line does not stay low enough meaning there's not enough O2 detected on bank 1. Your SAI passages in bank 1 could be partially clogged by carbon. Do you have lots of miles on the engine? For the SAI readiness to set, both the red and blue lines need to stay low for the first 60s or so (other than the first 10s where the sensirs are not hot enough to read anything yet). A normal plot is shown in post #47 here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49155-secondary-air-test-readiness-monitor-incomplete/page-3
  2. Ahsai
    All you need is a digital multimeter. Just probe the two ends of the cable in question with your normal load ON (a/c, low beam, etc) and measure the voltage drop, which should be way less than 0.5v. For battery cables, touch one probe on the battery post that the cable is connected to and the other probe to the other end of the cable. http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/voltage-drop-test.html
  3. Ahsai
    Sounds like you still have the issues with a new battery. You may have issues with your cables. Visual inspection when good it's far from enough to verify the cables are healthy. You need to perform somevoltage drop tests on each cable to find out where you lose the voltage (flickering h adlights and dash indicate that). Your symptoms seem very similar to Swaff's http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46275-power-surges-radio-turning-off-instrument-panel-flicker-light-flicker/ He had a bad battery negative cable, confirmed by voltage drop test between the ends of the cable when the flickering occured.
  4. Ahsai
    That's interesting so basically it's bad gas.
  5. Ahsai
    A good photo of the sensor here. See Figure 5 here http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/26-FUEL-Engine_Sensors/26-FUEL-Engine_Sensors.htm
  6. Ahsai
    Yes, with filter cutter like this http://www.brmotorsports.com/oilfiltercutter.aspx
  7. Ahsai
    Maybe you can try a different autozone store to get it read again. That way, you have some idea what you are dealing with before you bring it to a new dealer. I can magine warranty someone else's work can be tricky.
  8. Ahsai
    Check the gas cap and see if the o-ring has cracks on it and make sure the cap is tight. I think it's likely the autozone scanner not up to task. If the CEL is on, a generic scanner should be able to retrieve some codes. It's best to bring it to the dealer who repaired the evap issue. All repair done by dealer should have warranty. They could also retrieve more codes than a gemeric scanner can.
  9. Ahsai
    Good plan. Hot weather will be the true test and you can always add more R134a if needed anyway.
  10. Ahsai
    I would say ballpark high side pressure is approx 0.6 bar x ambient temp in Celcius. 50F = 10C so 0.6x10x14.5 = 87 PSIG. Sounds like you're very close like John said.
  11. Ahsai
    The high pressure graph for 996 is more or less linear. I picked the followng points. The lowest temp is 15C on the graph. 15C 9bar 40C 22.5bar +/- 2.5bar Low side is relatively constant at 1.4 to 1.7bar between 15C to 40C.
  12. Ahsai
    If air blows cold I would probably leave it alone. There's a sweet spot that the a/c will perform in great efficiency. Either too little or too much refrigerant will throw it off. Do you know how much R-134a (in weight) you put in? Our compressor has variable compression so it doesn't cycle on/off, normally at least. There are some cases it will turn OFF such as under WOT. Hope you also replenished a/c oil with the new compressor.
  13. Ahsai
    BTW, cleaning the throttle body will help smooth out the idle too if it's dirty.
  14. Ahsai
    The easiest is to check the LTFT when you feel the engine is not smooth (either idle or under load). Those should be +/- 10%. If the engine is smooth, I would just keep monitoring the fuel trims and CEL and do nothing yet.
  15. Ahsai
    I saw two issues with your engine: 1) Bank 1 sensor 2 (red line) too slow to respond. That's likely why your SAI readiness flag is not set. You can see engine starts at ~150s and close loop is achieved at ~190s and Bank 1 sensor 2 lags behind Bank 2 sensor 2 when detecting the extra O2 introduced by the SAI pump (excessive O2 => low voltage). 2) MAF reading / fuel trims are erratic. Long term fuel trims (on both banks) drifted from +15% to -10% between your first drive to your last drive. I saw that when idle, sometimes the MAF reading is in spec but a lot of time it's not. Suggest you remove the MAF, reset the DME and re-log.
  16. Ahsai
    Thanks John. I'll see if I could get it from here first before bothering you. http://www.cheetahonline.com/products-page/custom-work/rsmtool/
  17. Ahsai
    Is this tool still available for sale somewhere?
  18. Ahsai
    Great idea for an improvised puller. I'll give it a try. I may also try inserting a short M10 from the back and then punching it forward from the front. Thanks. The idea is from another forum member "swaff" and he said it works well. I've never tried that but it makes sense to me that it should work well. Yes, inserting an M10 and punching it from the front may work too. Since the alternator is out, you have all the room in the world to attack it.
  19. Ahsai
    Spray some PB blaster on the bushing and use a large sockets of the right size on the BACK of that bushing bracket (toward the front of the car). Then insert a short M10 bolt to pull the bushing toward the front of the car to release it.
  20. Ahsai
    I don't have the PET handy but maybe John can shed some light on the correct p/n for your year and model. If the MAF is $50 from ebay, I would not trust it. The Bosch ones are about $250 each and those should be good. You can still try to drive your car with the MAF unplugged and see if that makes a difference, maybe after you finished logging the data with the curret MAF.
  21. Ahsai
    STFT 1 appears twice and LTFT1 is missing. The two "F/T..." are not needed. We still need the O2 sensor voltage from all 4 O2 sensors. Not clear to me but is the MAF by Bosch? If not, I think it's a strong suspect. Not familiar with the desnorkle mod but can it be reversed?
  22. Ahsai
    Btw, any intake mods and have you tried driving the car with the MAF unplugged? From your data, looks like the MAF is over reading the intake air flow at idle so the DME has to pull fuel like crazy (negative short term fuel trim) on both banks at idle. To compensate, the DME has to add back fuel when under load hence the positive long term fuel trims.
  23. Ahsai
    Agree with John your MAF reading is way too high at warm idle. It should be around 4g/s at idle speed ~680-700rpm. What kind of MAF sensor you put in and are you sure it's the right one for your model? It would be useful to log the following (at idle) in Torque during cold start and after fully warmed up: - short term fuel trims on both banks - long term fuel trims on both banks - Bank 1 O2 sensor 1 voltage - Bank 1 O2 sensor 2 voltage - Bank 2 O2 sensor 1 voltage - Bank 2 O2 sensor 2 voltage - MAF - coolant temp - rpm
  24. Ahsai
    Those are not stock LEDs. Could be anything. Can you ask the previous owner?
  25. Ahsai
    I would definitely suspect the cables and the starter itself. You need to measure the voltage drop: - between the positive battery post (the lead post) and the starter positive terminal (that connects to the battery with a fat cable) - between the negative battery post (the lead post) and the engine casing As John said, you should not see more than 0.5v when you crank.
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