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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    It's very simple. Just put the car on a lift with the serpertine belt remved and do a cold start and check around. Also use a mechanics stethoscope.
  2. Ahsai
    Has the coolant cap ever been replaced or pressure tested?
  3. Ahsai
    If your noise is exactly the same as the mp3, I doubt it's the lifters. It sounds more like water pump, altenator, or idle pulley. Just remove the sepertine belt and see if the noise goes away. Also hand spin all the pulleys and accesories to feel if any is gritty or noisy. Last, use a mechanics stethoscope to check for noise. 10w50 is not the proper oil. Its too thick. Try 5w-40 motul xcess.
  4. Ahsai
    +1 to what John said above. Normal should be closer to 13.7v to 13.8v 13v is too low to charge the battery properly.
  5. Ahsai
    Are you sure when the battery measured 12.8v, the cig lighter socket meausured 13.6v? i.e., these readings were taken roughly around the same time and were repeatable? If that is true, I would suspect the positive cable that connects the battery to the power distributor under the dash. Can you measure the voltage drop (set meter to 2V) between the battery positive post and the cig lighter socket positive? Should also clean the battery cable terminals.
  6. Ahsai
    "Alternator shows 12.8v" - where, how and under what condition was it measured? Whenever engine is on, voltage at the battery should be 13.5v to 14.5v, even wirh electrical accesories like a/c and low beam. Don't trust the bench test too much as a lot of times the alternator acts up only when it's hot. Did you get the tool I mentioned?
  7. Ahsai
    Need more info on how the car got into this state. Were you ever able to start it before (sounded like you just got the car). Cranking means the key, the immobilizer, the clutch switch (if it has one), the starter relay and the starter are all good. Next is fuel, air, and ignition. If tach is motionless, it's likely the crank position sensor is bad and DME not firing the coils. Can you verify sparks?
  8. Ahsai
    Glad you got it sorted. I was under the impression that the error msg for fuse E1 will mention something like "term 86s" but that's probably true only for non-Durametric scanners.
  9. Ahsai
    You mean the engine cranks at normal speed but it doesn't start/catch? Checked fuses C1 to C4? Does the tachometer needle bounce when you crank? Is it intermittent? Have you tried another key?
  10. Ahsai
    I assume those those spikes on the cold start MAF plot was you revving the engine? The cam deviation doesn't look steady to me but that should not affect SAI readiness though. The O2 reading on both cold start and hot idle look fine to me. Fuel trims also look fine. Maybe others can comment more. I think it's time to bring it to the dealer to force emission tests if there are no further inputs here.
  11. Ahsai
    These look pretty normal to me. Perhaps you can do another cold start log again just to confrim. What are the cam deviations? Not related to SAI but it'll be good to know too as a generic scanner can't read those. Any pendimg codes?
  12. Ahsai
    Looks promising and hope a new MAF will fix the idle issue.
  13. Ahsai
    http://www.callasrennsport.com/porsche-986-996-987-997-fuel-trim-information/
  14. Ahsai
    From memory, MAF should read around 14kg/hr at idle (engine fully warmed up). You may also want to log the TRA (or RKAT) and FRA, those are the fuel trims for idle and under load.
  15. Ahsai
    Sorry to hear that and please keep us posted. Hopefully the Durametric will give us more clues.
  16. Ahsai
    That's great and thanks for the update. It's indeed a great deal!
  17. Ahsai
    Yes.
  18. Ahsai
    Have you tried putting it in neutral first? http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/21498-engine-wont-start-until-i-do-the-trick/
  19. Ahsai
    Btw, you may want to get this tool I absolutely love for diagnosing battery/charging system. http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0
  20. Ahsai
    That saved a lot of diagnostic :) Btw, I love this plug-in battery/alternator tester. Will be very useful in your case. http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0
  21. Ahsai
    A good read here http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf
  22. Ahsai
    Use an oscilloscope or set the multimeter to AC mV. I don't have the spec for your alternator but usually the AC ripple should be less than 100mV.
  23. Ahsai
    Ok, found it here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47504-troubleshooting-low-voltage-and-charging-issues/?hl=charging It was written for 996s but will apply similarly to your Boxster.
  24. Ahsai
    When the multimeter is set to 200mV, whatever it displays will be in mV. That means all your numbers above were 0.03mV, 1.8mV, and 1.4mV, which are excellent numbers! Anything below 500mV is acceptable. That means those old ground straps were good. Basically there are 3 things in your case. The battery, the cables, and the alternator. The next logical step is to load test the alternator, which requires a load tester. A poor man's method is just turn on your low beam and a/c at idle (after engine fully warmed up) and check if you get 13.5v or above. When driving, you should also get 13.5v or above with low beam and a/c on. Since there are a quite a few cables, you will need to check them one by one. Let me dig up an old write-up I have. When you light flickers, that means you are losing some voltage. The question is where.
  25. Ahsai
    .03 and 1.8. Are those in V or mV? Anything within 0.5V or 500mV is acceptable.
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