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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I have not tried it but I saw one on itune called "OBD Fusion" which looks very promising and it's very diagnostic oriented (approaching the "Torque app" on Android). It also supports mode $05 and $06.
  2. Ahsai
    With Durametric, you can activate and test the fuel pump within Durametric.
  3. Ahsai
    You can use a spark tester like this one http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE404-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSBM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454388016&sr=8-3&keywords=Spark+tester
  4. Ahsai
    Check fuses C1 to C4 and E1. Is the tachometer needle bouncing a bit when you crank? Have you tried cleaning the throttle and the idle stabilizer valve (power it on with a 9v battery to make it turn while cleaning)? Can you verify sparks?
  5. Ahsai
    I don't have the answer but from the video above, it seems to imply the two signals should be on top of each other? If true, that means the reluctor ears' positions (with respect to the sensors) should also be identical between the banks. I could be totally wrong though.
  6. Ahsai
    I think the danger of $1200 intake cam is it may not solve the problem (if something else is the culprit). Without a scope, it's difficult to pinpoint the problem given what you have already tried. If the bank 1 cam sensor is bad, you would expect swapping the sensor will fix bank 1 but it didn't. I think this case is interesting given what you tried so far, nothing can conclude it's the sensor or the reluctor. Perhaps try a new sensor on bank 1. I don't know if visual inspection of the sender and resistance are enough to OK it for it can also act up (signal drop) only when hot? http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0232103022-Engine-Rpm-Sensor/dp/B0074O6XFG BTW, I use this $150 scope and it's excellent for problems like this http://www.sainsmart.com/dso203-mini-kit-72mhz-4-ch-stm32-metal-shell-newest-version.html?gclid=CJLCqOfm18oCFRCqaQodEN0Grw
  7. Ahsai
    A video of how the waveform should look like
  8. Ahsai
    If you use an oscilloscope to probe both cam sensors and compare their waveforms, that should reveal something.
  9. Ahsai
    Np. So it seems PSM/ABS occured first, then after cats and O2 sensors replacement, you started to get O2 codes. Seems to me the O2 sensors are very suspicious and hopefully durametric logs will confirm that. Once those are corrected, you can then see if the cats are good since O2 codes can supress cat codes. PSM/ABS sounds MAF related. Btw, have you cleaned the throttle body and rotate the butterfly carefully to check for smoothness and full range operation? The spring is quit strong so it takes some force to rotate the butterfly.
  10. Ahsai
    Let me tell you what to expect so you have some feel too: - MAF ~15-17kg/hr at idle. 50-80kg/hr at 3,000rpm - MAF voltage ~1.3v at idle - rpm ~700 +/- 40 - coolant ~90C - resistance of O2 sensor ~100ohms, will fluctuate between 64 and 128 ohms - precat O2 should swing between 0.1v to 0.7v about once a second. Postcat should stay at about 0.7v flat - FRA ~1.0 +/-0.15 and RKAT ~0% +/- 15% - cam deviations 0 degree +/- 7 degrees (measuesd at crank). Should be rock steady at all revs Note MAF and rpm should be in the same log. So do the 4 O2 voltage. I'm not aware of the 8 sensors logging limitation. Are you using the latest version of Durametric?
  11. Ahsai
    All in one log will be fine.Excel file with raw values would be good but graphical plots are ok too as long as one can see the values clearly.
  12. Ahsai
    Btw, can you also log the following for 2 minutes during engine idle after fully warmed up? - MAF - rpm - coolant temp - Resistance of all 4 O2 sensors - O2 voltage of all 4 O2 sensors - FRA, RKAT on both banks - cam deviations
  13. Ahsai
    So when were the old cats replaced? I'm trying to understand the sequence of events hoping that could give us more clues. E.g., do the new cats ever work without problems?
  14. Ahsai
    The slight vacuum and idle struggling are normal when the oil cap is removed. Dis you use the MAF specific cleaner and not the regular contact cleaner? Do the K&N filter have too much filter oil that could foul the MAF? More info on how the car got into this state would also be helpful. You mentioned you have had it for some time so at which point you started having idle issues and CEL?
  15. Ahsai
    No, B4 is the only fuse for the engine bay fan but again, your problem is somewhere else if steam comes out of the engine lid.
  16. Ahsai
    No, steam coming out is not normal and your problem is not the engine bay fan. It could be the coolant cap not holding pressure. Should use the latest cap that ends with .04 p/n. Also check if both of your coolant radiator fans are running at both low speed and high speed (at higher temp). Whenever the a/c is ON, both fans should be on low speed. You can put your hand on the ground about one foot in front of the front tires to feel the air flow.
  17. Ahsai
    While the coolant maybe at 200, the engine compartment temp may be much lower.
  18. Ahsai
    How do you know your engine compartment temperature at the spot where the temp sensor sits (between the right intake runners on top of the engine) was greater than 176 degree?
  19. Ahsai
    You may also want to do an e-gas throttle recalibration first before anything. Just turn the key to the last position before crank, foot off the gas pedal and wait for 1min. Then remove key and it's done. Also, per Bosch site, your MAF should be this one http://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/air-management-sensors/mass-airflow-sensors?partId=0280218009 If you punch in your current Bosch p/n, it will say the part is not compatible with your 1999 C4.
  20. Ahsai
    - It's ok to drive the car just like mormal even with the MAF disconnected - the DME is monitoring the heater resistance of the O2 sensor so deviation in aftermarket part may trip the error codes - yes, logging using the actual values. More details here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49414-secondary-air-test-readiness-monitor-incomplete-with-o2-voltage-graph/
  21. Ahsai
    Btw, do you still have your old O2 sensors and the cats?
  22. Ahsai
    A couple of thoughts: - Too many variables with aftermarket cats, O2 sensors, and MAF (what brand is the MAF btw? If it's not Bosch, it's a suspect as well) - The $20 O2 sensors are highly suspicious. I suggest using the Bosch sensors (~$65 each) - Do you still have problems if you drive the car but keep the MAF disconnected? - You can generate a cold start plot (~3 minutes worth of initial start up) and log the O2 sensor voltage for all 4 O2 sensors. That should give us some idea of how the cats and O2 sensors work. Repeat the log but with the engine fully warmed up and at idle ( log for ~1 minute) - Your new cats are of the stock 996.2 style where the post-cat O2 sensor sticks to the middle of the cat, right between the two elements inside the cat. They may not work well for your car, which expects the post-cat O2 sensor way after the cat with the exhaust air better processed by potentially the same two elements or a larger single element (I have not taken one from a 996.1 apart so I'm not sure). - Check your engine oil cap. Do you feel some vacuum when you remove it when the engine is running? If not, you may have a gross intake air leak (check the oil filler tube for cracks)
  23. Ahsai
    Already answered you on Rennlist :)
  24. Ahsai
    I hope not but if you need to get one, this brand new Bosch is a good deal. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYAAYE?colid=32L6BJJIEJIEZ&coliid=I2N2Y94XKY0X04&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl
  25. Ahsai
    I think he means the metal bushing at the back of the alternator where the long bolt screws on. I don't know if they are available separately from the alternator. Most likely not :(
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