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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. You already have the pin out of the OBD port in your wiring diagram above. I typed it out here again for your reference: 1: Switched 12v 3: K-line 2 (abs, airbag, psm, etc.) 4: Ground (body) 5: Ground (electronics) 7: K-line 1 (alarm->DME) 9: TN signal (square pule rpm signal) 16: Permanent 12v (always hot and connected to the battery) Sound like the power/ground to the port is flaky so I suggest you focus on pins 1, 4, 5, and 16. Durametric uses these pins and pins 3 and 7 to communicate with the two K-line buses. With Durametric plugged in and with key ON engine OFF, the two K-line should measure around +12v.
  2. Note also since the SAI system is operated by vacuum, the problem can be as simple as vacuum leak such as an unplugged vacuum hose.
  3. Those codes mean the engine (O2 sensors) doesn't see enough fresh air injected. The most common cause is somethng that's commn for both engine banks sch as one of the vacuum valves and change over valve. If you don't plan to diagnose it yourself, at least you can check if the air pump is running for about 1 min upon cold start (sounds like a small portable vacuum). If the pump is running, further diagnostic is needed.
  4. Do you have an OBDII scanner or Durametric that can read the O2 sensor voltage in real-time? If so, you can try some basic diagnostic first. The problem with your symptoms is it could be anything from a sticky changeover valve, bad one-way valve to partially clogged SAI ports, which require removal of the headers to fix.
  5. Part #12 here. It's a coolant cover and the bracket to support the alternator. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=101-05
  6. Just be very careful with that part...it's ridiculously expensive, like $400-500.
  7. Parts #19 and 20 here. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=104-10
  8. Figure 1 in the second link Schnell posted above, remove the two wires from the grey switch and bridge the two terminals of the wires with a bare metal paper clip. Just make sure you put the gear in neutral before you crank the engine.
  9. Glad to hear you got it sorted.
  10. How about pin D17 (or IV 17)? What was the rpm wen the above measurement was taken? The spike could be the self-induced voltage of the primary side of the coil.
  11. On 996's, Pin 9 on the OBDII port carries the rpm signal (square wave. Frequency = ignition events). 997.1 may have it as well.
  12. The variocam actuator on the intake cam head will park in a neutral position whenever the engine is not running and there is no oil pressure. The intake cam retard could be from worn chain pads. Unfortunately I don't know the reaolution of that thread. The OP never came back. Regarding the cam sensor, you may want to clean up the oil and the electrical conracts. Not sure if it will help. So you have Durametric? If you do, you can get the cam deviation reading.
  13. And you will need this tool kit https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Camshaft-Alignment-Timing-Tool/dp/B00L0ZYKRI
  14. The only way I know to pyhsically inspect the reluctor is by remving the bank 1 cam cover. I posted a photo here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/905331-p0344-and-p0349-error-codes-no-cel.html If your intake cam end slot is truly 10+ degrees off, you shoukd also retime your engine because that's 20+ crank degrees (spec is 0 degree +/- 6 crank degrees).
  15. gcp, any update on this issue?
  16. This is where the bank 2 cam sensor is.
  17. Just so it's clear, the "sensor" you're checking now is not a sensor, it's a solenoid that controls the hydraulic flow to the variocam timing device on the head of the intake cam. The timing device varies the relative phase difference between the crank and the intake cam. The cam sensor that John referred to is actually a hall effect sensor that reads the reluctor on the intake cam.
  18. These readings look OK to me so it looks like you have an intermittent problem in bank 2, where the spec'ed angle and actual angles were very different in one of your earlier posts. You can just reset the codes and see if they come back. The cam deviations should be fixed (during each drive but they may be slightly different across drives) and solid at all revs. If they fluctuate with the rev, you have a very bad problem.
  19. The easiest is to plot both banks simultaneously amd compare them. Should be quite obvious based on your codes. Durametric can do that but I'm not sure if piwis can. It probably can too.
  20. Exactly and I suspect the reason why the deviation is shown as 0.0000 was because the system detected something is not operating properly.
  21. Yes but your problem is at 3,000 rpm where the angle should switch but it didn't.
  22. I think it's crank angle (as opposed to cam angle).
  23. Your's a 997-1 so it should be very similar to 996.2 (variocam+). Check bank 2 and see if it looks like the second last photo in this post by John If so, the one on the left is the variocam timing (as opposed to lift) and that's the one you should be checking. The bank 2 cam sensor is toward the front of the car on the engine head. The cam angle should be very close to what spec'ed angle (which varies per rpm) and the deviation from the spec'ed angle should be less than 10 degrees. For WSM, check with porschelibrarian.
  24. Sounds like you have issues with the bank 2 variocam actuator or its circuit. The workshop manual should have the actual steps. I would expect testing of continuity of the wires between the actuator and the DME, ohm out the actuator, and also apply voltage to the actuator and listen for engine change. To diagnose this further, you will need a wiring diagram.
  25. Wow, it's been a while and glad you found deoxit useful.
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