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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I have not found one hence zip ties.
  2. Ahsai
    Yup, very common. Zip ties will work too.
  3. Ahsai
    Have you checked under the car if the cables are knocked off of their brackets? They could be even when their ends are connected to the shift levers on the transmission.
  4. Ahsai
    Kudos to Porschetech3 for helping out a fellow member!
  5. Ahsai
    Sounds like relatively good news! Maybe get a spring from a used unit?
  6. Ahsai
    Looks like you have that piston up side down. The pin that sticks out from the solenoid should push toward a flat surface, right? If it pushes toward the divot, the piston won't move, right? Another thread that may be useful http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/60995-vario-cam-adjuster-plunger-question-re-p1324-code.html
  7. Ahsai
    Bench test the solenoid yet? There should not be any o-ring for the plunger.
  8. Ahsai
    Yup, you can see that "Zyl 1-3" in the pelican photo I posted above.
  9. Ahsai
    So was the actuator swapped with bank 2 by mistake
  10. Ahsai
    Porschetech, are you sure cam deviation is reported as cam degrees? The reason is the WSM mentions cam deviation is reported in degrees "crk", which I take it as crank angle. All the other angle related values such as timing advance is also in degrees "crk", Durametric also indicates the value in degrees "crk". Re the warning indicator you want to build should not be too difficult. You will need to tap the signal from the "G" pin of the sensor, which connects directly to the instrument cluster (as an input to the oil pressure gauge). Then you have to figure out the signal to pressure mapping by observing the signal while changing the oil pressure. To pick up the rev, you can get the 12v square wave signal from pin 9 of the OBDII socket. The frequency of that signal indicates the number of ignitions per second. Then you will need a circuit to combine the two signal with the correct logic to trigger the warning light (e.g., when pressure < 3bar and rev> 5k, trigger the light).
  11. Ahsai
    Did you measure the crankcase vacuum before the AOS replacement?
  12. Ahsai
    I think that makes a lot sense because despite the cam lock tool fits perfectly on the exhaust cam, the intake cam can still be off, which will be picked up by the cam position sensor on the INTAKE cam. Great tip on the reluctor pointing to 3 o'clock. I found a perfect pic to illustrate your point. One thing not clear to me though. Cam deviation is measured in crank degrees, right? So 15 crank degrees = 7 degrees cam...not quite one tooth (15 cam degrees),
  13. Ahsai
    This problem sounds quite unique and interesting. It's not clear to me the poster intends to perform any trouble shooting himself. The difficulty seems to be catching the drain in action. It sounds like the mechanic had some monitoring/logging device that logs the drain ON and OFF periods (i.e., duty cycle). If the drain was constant or lasted somewhat long enough, I would think the mechanic would have narrowed it down already.
  14. Ahsai
    My guess is the mechanic has a way to log/monitor the periodic current drain. I bet he was not sitting there and staring at the DMM for hrs and hrs just to catch the event every 45min. If true I would disconnect all the aftermarket devices and remove all the fuses. Then every hr add back half of fuses. With some luck, you should be able the narrow down the drain to half of the fuses. Repeat the same on the half that causes the drain. This is assuming the source of the drain behaves after powered cycle and it gets power from one of the fuses.
  15. Ahsai
    Good news about the dme and harness. So the problem is confined to the solenoid/actuator. Are you dropping the engine? Might be a lot easier.
  16. Ahsai
    BTW, i agree it sounds like your solenoid/actuator is not working but I was wondering if there are other faults on the harness/DME side since you said you got 0v from the harness.
  17. Ahsai
    Any chance to try the 2 tests I suggested above (12v test on pin 1 and light bulb test)?
  18. Ahsai
    "3. Camshaft position sensor, Bank 1. I have not read that these fail so this seems unlikely'.Is it possible to make a mistake assembling the cam position sensor ?" <- That is not possible as the sensor goes in only one way. Your case is indeed very strange. Sounds like multiple failures. Look forward to see what you find electrically.
  19. Ahsai
    You're welcome! Yeah, Imo was able to fix his problem by replacing the transistor inside the DME. Based on the 0v DMM reading, that sounds like a DME/harness problem. Um, that's strange...unless you truly have two problems. With key ON engine OFF, do you get 12v on pin 1 of the bank 1 solenoid? The DME grounds pin 2 to activate the solenoid.
  20. Ahsai
    Agree with John. Based on 2, it sounds like your solenoid/actuator is not working. Just to double confirm it's not the transistor inside the DME nor the harness, you can unplug the bank 1 solenoid and connect a small 12v 3w bulb to the harness connector. You can use the bulb from your frunk or engine lid. Now just fire up the engine and rev it to 3k. The bulb should light up. If so, the only explanation is a bad solenoid/actuator.
  21. Ahsai
    Do the smoke come out from tailpipes on both sides? Did you remove the throttle body and the T-plenum and look INSIDE the intake manifolds to see if there's any accumulation of engine oil inside? they can hold a lot of oil.
  22. Ahsai
    Hars to say as you auto cross the car. For a DD the flywheel should last a long time. A new clutch from LUK is about $400 shipped to your door from Partsgeek..if that makes a difference.
  23. Ahsai
    What oil do you use and what's the oil pressure at idle after fully warmed up? You didn't drop any tin foil from the oil bottle into the oil filler tuber, right?
  24. Ahsai
    Any oil in coolant? Two possibilities are AOS ruptured and it dumps coolant into the engine case. The other one is a leaking oil/coolant heat exchanger. Oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure so you should see oil in coolant too. Just siphon out some coolant in a clear container and check for trace of oil. Any work done on the engine end after the accident?
  25. Ahsai
    The AOS rear screw (rear of car) is the fun one :) Let us know how it goes. What is the pelican way?
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