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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. When connecting the coils, listen for the click. If there's no click sound, the connector is not seated properly. Any chance of debris getting into the exposed fuel lines?
  2. I would suggest the following values with the engine fully warmed up and the car stationary: - a/c and headlights off. All other accessories off - Cam deviation on both banks (the values should be rock solid at idle and when you give the gas a short blip) - rpm - MAF reading (kg/hr) at idle and @3k rpm - RKAT on both banks - FRA on both banks
  3. The top two bolts are 23 ftlb
  4. Engine mount to engine carrier - 63ftlb
  5. It looks like the connector for emission testing. It plugs into a holder next to the right engine mount (same holder for the bank 2 O2 sensor connectors). It doesn't connect to anything and you can just leave it alone in the holder.
  6. Also check your cats. Use a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver. Loose elements can knock around inside.
  7. The end of those wires connect to the two big round connectors in the engine bay right side, then to the DME.
  8. BTW P1313 is cly #1 misfire and P1315 is cyl #3 misfire, on the same side as the coolant tank.
  9. Definitely replace ALL the coils (and maybe spark plugs too) first then. What have you removed when replacing the coolant tank? Just the airbox, sai pump, coolant tank and some coolant hoses?
  10. Check the rubber intake tube where the airbox connects to the throttle body and make sure there's no leak. Also check to see if the oil filler tube is cracked. How old are the coils?
  11. I'm a bit confused. You said if it cranks, it will start but you also said it cranks everytime with the key turn (clutch switch bypassed) but yet it will rarely start...
  12. Um, Joe's '99 has only one switch and I was only able to find one brake switch in all the wiring diagrams, regardless of MY. Not that it matters to the OP now anyway.
  13. I also crawled under the dash last night just to make sure I'm not crazy :) I also have one brake switch. It makes sense because from the wiring diagram, it's clear that the single switch controls both the brake light and the cruise control.
  14. You can plot the "Rough running cylinder #1, #2,..." (in 1/s^2) at idle and that will indicate how smooth/rough the engine is. Also, plot the misfire counts in Durametric at idle to see if there's any misfire.
  15. You can kind of see it from under the car. https://www.specr53.com/blog/diy/porsche-996-motor-mount-replacement-diy/
  16. Good info here for the OP http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/93-ELEC-Brake-Clutch_and_Cruise_Control_Switch_Replacement/93-ELEC-Brake-Clutch_and_Cruise_Control_Switch_Replacement.htm
  17. That's interesting, Loren. I have cruise control but has a single switch on the brake pedal with 4 wires going in. The wiring diagram indicates that single switch feeds both the brake light and the DME/cruise control module (SPDT contacts inside the switch for the two circuits).
  18. Hi Joe, are you sure? Mine (MkII) has a single switch on the brake pedal and two switches on the clutch pedal - one for cruise control and one for starter interlock.
  19. The brake switch that sends power to the brake lights should have a black wire and a black/orange wire going into the switch. There is a black/red wire going into the switch too if you have cruise control. Also, once the switch is removed, there should be no power to the brake lights. Normally the switch is OPEN between the black and black/orange wires.
  20. By trunk I assume you meant the rear engine lid. It's possible the diodes or the regualtor in your alternator fail, which causes the large parasitic drain and higher than normal 15v output. The shop should not have let you keep driving the car with 15v charging voltage. It's dangerous as it overcharges the battery and boils the electrolyte.
  21. Oh right. For some reason I thought this filter is from your own car. Glad to hear it's not.
  22. A well equipped shop will be able to use an oscilloscope to check the cam position senor signal to determine if it's normal or if it's truly shorted to B+.
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