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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Those parts are correct. It's ok to clean the MAF as long as you use the MAF-specific cleaner (available in any auto parts store) and do not wipe the sensor with anything. Can you remove the MAF and check if it's a Bosch unit and is it 98660612501? Seafoam in the gas tank does not create any smoke so no worries. Seafoam introduced in intake would.
  2. Ahsai
    It's less likely since you got misfires on both banks but I think it's still a good idea to check the variocam timing and lift solenoids on the cam covers (they are like spark plugs) and see if there's any oil/air leak.
  3. Ahsai
    If the CEL is not blinking, it should still be OK to have short drives. However, in the long run, the misfires will need to be fixed. I looked at the files and didn't see any clear pattern of the misfires. The numbers all look fine to me (other than a few multi-cylinder misfires @~2k rpm). How old is the gas and what's the part number of the spark plugs you used? Any mods to the intake? I suggest you use a bottle of techron or seafoam in the fuel tank and drive the car till the tank is empty. Then change the oil afterwards and see if there's any improvement.
  4. Ahsai
    TRA at .37 but FRA looks great means that you have a large intake air leak, somewhere common to both banks. Typical places of air leak: oil filler tube cracked, rubber air intake to throttle body not seated well, vacuum leak (vacuum hoses), the elbow on the left intake manifold that connects to the brake vacuum line.
  5. Ahsai
    With 93k miles, I agree if you drop the engine, there will be a lot of items to address. Just to fix this bank 2 solenoid though, I don't think you need a lift. You only need the rear jack points to be on jack stands, then support and jack the engine from the bottom, lower it for a few inches to create a lot more space.
  6. Ahsai
    Glad to help! Come to think about it, it may not be that bad. I don't recall any threads that document the process though. You may be able to do it in situ. You can always undo the engine mounts and lower the engine a few inches to gain more space. You need to remove the right muffler, the muffler support bracket and the header. Then with the engine locked at TDC and a special tool to hold down the cams, you can then open the cam cover and replace that solenoid (only held by two bolts). Then reseal the cam cover (needs some workmanship). How many miles on the engine and does it have a double row IMSB?
  7. Ahsai
    Yes, big job that involves removing the cam cover.
  8. Ahsai
    Bad news is what you said. All correct. Most ppl said it's easier overall if engine is removed but it could also be done in situ. Good news is at least you know for sure it's the solenoid and you can explain everything. Basically the somewhat shorted solenoid overloaded the transistor and the heat caused the joint to de-solder.
  9. Ahsai
    That's good news. The bank 2 solenoid connector is right below the a/c compressor. Should be able to access it easily with the airbox removed.
  10. Ahsai
    The one the red arrow points to. This is showing bank 1. Not sure about bank2 but it should be symmetrical.
  11. Ahsai
    Yes, the DME should keep grounding the solenoid until you click "stop". Very strange problem indeed. I wonder if the solenoid is overloading the transistor and that causes it to shut down. A simple test is to check the resistance of the solenoid. Also, disconnect the solenoid and plug a 6w 12v bulb to substitute the solenoid and then try Durametric activation again.
  12. Ahsai
    TRA=+0.37 (adding 37% more fuel at idle) means the engine is pegged at full lean on that bank. What's the TRA on the other bank? Vacuum leak like John said. FRA close to 1.0 is fine.
  13. Ahsai
    Like John said above and look for FRA and TRA (or RKAT).
  14. Ahsai
    Sounds like the a/c is loading the engine more than expected. Have you (a shop) tried vacuuming and refilling the a/c? Any chance of overcharged a/c?
  15. Ahsai
    Well done and my pleasure to help.
  16. Ahsai
    Looks like you got what you wished for :)
  17. Ahsai
    I wanna see a pic of the area in question.
  18. Ahsai
    Your RAKT values look great so it doesn't indicate intake air leak. However, have you checked for any intake leak such as: where the intake tube mounts on the throttle body and any cracks on the oil filler tube?
  19. Ahsai
    I can see the spreadsheet now. Some of the rows at the beginning are missing some columns. The 2000 something numbers should be under "ignition count". i.e., in your capture above, the first 5 rows should be shifted to the right one column! For each row, the actual misfire counters start at the left of the "ignition count" column. Anyways, looks like multiple misfires occurring right off idle, i.e., around 1k+ rpm. Not at idle (680rpm). It would be useful if you can log these again but log the actual rpm (not the spec one) and make sure you don't have missing columns in some of the rows and things get shifted like above.
  20. Ahsai
    BTW, my previous comment was about the electrical connector on each coil. You need to hear a click when you plug each one in. No click = not engaged fully.
  21. Ahsai
    Some formatting issues with your second spreadsheet. The rows are all very tall and I can't see the numbers. the misfire counter counts the number of misfire per k crankshaft resolution, then it resets to 0 and start again so what you observed was normal. Forgot the value of k, could be 100 or something like that.
  22. Ahsai
    All the numbers look great on the spreadsheet. Cam deviation, FRA and RKAT, MAF all are perfect. Was the engine running rough when you took these measurements? I suggest you log the misfire counters (6 of them, one for each cylinder) and rough running values (also 6) when the engine feels rough and when it's at idle. Have you checked all your coil plugs are engaged properly? When you plugged in the coil connectors, did you hear a faint click?
  23. Ahsai
    Has the head (on the leaking side) been removed before? The head gaskets are quite strong on these engines and they seldom fail. Also, is he sure the leak is from the head gasket and not dripped from somewhere higher above? A photo of the leaking area might help.
  24. Ahsai
    Unplug the solenoid and check its resistance, should be around 13ohm. If it is, there are lots of things to check. Check the following thread which can help you isolate if it's the solenoid/actuator, wiring, or DME (transistor). https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/815258-variocam-actuator-trigger-voltage.html
  25. Ahsai
    Yes, it's a Durametric typo! Per the DME7.2 diagnostic manual, P1325 is Camshaft adjustment bank 2.
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