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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Nothing stands out in the excel spreadsheet to me. I saw some mifires and timing got pulled but the MAF readings (kg/hr and voltage) look fine. For further diagnostic, I can only think of intake air leak test, fuel pressure test, and unplug MAF and see if there's any difference.
  2. Ahsai
    If that's the true cause, that means the oil pressure is lower than designed (which makes some metal parts tap). You question will be the same as asking what would happen if I keep driving the car if it's oil pressure is too low.
  3. Ahsai
    Glad to hear and thanks for the update.
  4. Ahsai
    You need to drain out all the engine oil. You can just follow the Pelican instruction I posted in one of the posts on page 2. The alignment tool is the silver one on the bottom left in your tool box.
  5. Ahsai
    A sound/video clip will help a lot in this case. Usually tapping is not from a lifter but rather from bore scoring. To eliminate the pulleys, you can remove the serpentine belt and hand spin each pulley and feel for any grittiness and noise. If it's bore scoring, a thicker oil can only mask the symptoms.
  6. Ahsai
    Both sides and the twist is normal. You may want to try a stud remover like this https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-29895-Stud-Extractor/dp/B000XSCDEA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1499893903&sr=8-11&keywords=broken+stud+extractor
  7. Ahsai
    I like Kroil, much better than PB. The service manual recommends using a flex socket wrench on the top muffler bracket bolts.
  8. Ahsai
    I'll try to answer the other questions here: "I know I should replace all 6 exhaust manifold bolts, Do I need to replace the gasket? What about the muffler bracket bolts? Replace them also? What about the gasket and 3 bolts where the header connects the exhaust system? Replace all?" Yes, replace all those you mentioned above. I also use anti-seize on the header bolts when reinstalled. "How do I get to the top bolts that hold the muffler bracket to the engine head?" I've never done it insitu so I'm not sure. I imagine you can use a 3/8" drive flex head ratchet with a shallow socket. When lowering the engine, pay attention to the O2 sensor wires and coolant hoses to make sure they are not stressed.
  9. Ahsai
    Nice. BTW, you may want to ohm out and bench test your new solenoid to make sure it works before installing it due to all the labor involved.
  10. Ahsai
    Cleaning the idle stabilizer valve is good regardless. To test the MAF, you can use the Durametric or a regular multimeter to back probe the signal and see if you get ~1.1v with key ON engine OFF and ~1.3v at idle/680rpm.
  11. Ahsai
    That plug is for emission and diagnostic and it's not plugged into anything. It is put in a holder next to the right engine mount.
  12. Ahsai
    What if you disconnect the MAF and drive the car? Will the engine still misfire?
  13. Ahsai
    Part #20x1 #26, 27, 28, 29, all x 3 http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=103-00 Re the rusted bolts or head bolts, I recommend soaking them in Kroil and use impact gun on them if possible.
  14. Ahsai
    Looking good. Yes, the muffler bracket and the header will have to be removed. Also, you may want to clean the cam cover and area as much as you can before cracking it open to avoid any dirt/debris getting into the cams, lifters, etc. Cleanliness is paramount.
  15. Ahsai
    There may be other ways but I'm pretty sure the typical way is to lock the crank, then set the cams and lock the sprocket. Of course with the tensioner in place. Also, never turn the crank backwards.
  16. Ahsai
    Um, not sure I got it. Since the cams are 8 degrees (crk) lagging behind the crank, don't you need to rotate the crank 8 degrees past TDC before the exhuast cam can be locked by the tool? Regardless, if you are sure the timing chain links offset between the intake and exhaust cams are correct, you should be able to turn the crank and lock it at TDC. Then loosen the sprocket of the exhaust cam then turn it to the proper position using the timing tool?
  17. Ahsai
    Sounds like a good plan! Also get thia http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?partnumber=DB-07589062376&utm_source=google&utm_medium=nonpaid&utm_campaign=frooglePN&utm_term=07589062376&crossref=07589062376&gclid=CjwKEAjwytLKBRCX547gve7EsE4SJAD3IZV6Z1YKwLaFLHeegZmor_0AaN_2oeRYy02rBT5AvwFiARoCboXw_wcB For parts diagram, use autoatlanta.com
  18. Ahsai
    What John suggested above and also check the whole intake path after the MAF sensor for air leak (spray carburetor cleaner on suspected area carefully and have a fire extinguisher close to you). Also check if you have any vacuum hoses disconnected.
  19. Ahsai
    The click I mentioned was when you plug in the electrical connector to the coil, not when you push the coil in.
  20. Ahsai
    Actually I saw a pattern in the misfires but I'm not sure if the info helps. I'll post it here anyway. The misfires seem to occur at ~2,000 rpm, ~40 ignition timing advance and ~5 degree throttle valve position (idle is 2~3 degrees). Basically just off idle.
  21. Ahsai
    Intesting theory about using a capcitor to zap the short. Re the mechanical work, here's a good link. You only need to perform a subset of these steps (hopefully obvious). I would add that cleanliness and attention to details are critical for a successful outcome. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair.htm
  22. Ahsai
    Gotcha. Actually his dealer's quote $1,600 was for labor only. Definitely need tools, skills and knowledge. It's not like replacing a spark plug :)
  23. Ahsai
    John, yes I saw that on Sunset but autohausaz seems to offer the same (genuine) for $205 hence my link above.
  24. Ahsai
    Also make sure you have these tools before opening up the cam cover. http://www.ewktool.com/porsche-986-996-engine-timing-camshaft tool
  25. Ahsai
    $1600 labor sounds about right for removing and resealing the cam cover by the dealer. The part is $500 MSRP Part #10 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=103-10 You can get it online for $200 here http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?partnumber=PO-99660590200&utm_source=google&utm_medium=nonpaid&utm_campaign=frooglePN&utm_term=99660590200&crossref=99660590200&gclid=Cj0KEQjwp83KBRC2kev0tZzExLkBEiQAYxYXOteySWixt1OPB1FvDIPnYnE6Waam6bQg2TaNfsdPkjgaAv-q8P8HAQ The actuator (wtih the solenoid) is $1,000! (Part #7) "some old school techniques to try to clear the short in the solenoid winding before pulling it apart" <- How? I'm curious.
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