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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    An image from a 40th taken from here https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-marketplace/946036-2004-40th-anniversary-edition-911-a.html
  2. Ahsai
    Prolly marketing loss in translation. Note the next paragraph says the 40th comes with PSM as a standard feature. If you have wired throttle, PSM can't modulate the throttle. Anyways, these are the pics of the wired throttle (left) and e-gas throttle (right). Yours should look similar to the one on the right.
  3. Ahsai
    innov8, in addition to what Loren showed about, the AE can't use a wired throttle because it comes with PSM, which uses e-gas to throttle the engine. If you really have a cable sticking out of your throttle body, that can't be a stock throttle body/engine.
  4. Ahsai
    AFAIK, all 2004 996s (2000+ and all AWD for that matter) have e-gas. Are you saying you see a physical throttle cable on your throttle body?
  5. Ahsai
    Nothing much new other than the cold start log shows the misfires are more prominent at cold start during the open loop phase. Can you log the coolant temp (or engine temp as Durametric calls it) and intake air temp during cold start? Also one thing you can try is e-gas recalibration. Just leave the key in the last position before crank for 60s, then turn the key to OFF for 10s then you're done. I think you would need to bring it to a good shop for further diagnostic.
  6. Ahsai
    Good progress. Have you read these steps in details? http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair.htm It's important to follow these steps (where applicable to your solenoid replacement). The stock black sealant will be a nightmare to clean up. Just be patient with a plastic razor and use the permatex gasket remover to help. That thing works like a charm.
  7. Ahsai
    If memory serves, the crankshaft craddle is directly below that hole so the bolt may just rest on top of the craddle. I saw one post like that before Do you have a borescope to peek around?
  8. Ahsai
    Usually you remove the plastic cam plugs by using a pick, poking a hold in the middle of the plug so you can't reuse them.
  9. Ahsai
    Yes, the cam deviations are likely due to worn variocam pads. Changing the cam pads is significantly more work as you need to remove the variocam actuator and time the engine afterwards. Won't be fun doing those in situ.
  10. Ahsai
    Did the 10K service or AOS r&r involve removing the transmission? If so, maybe they re-lube the clutch parts and somehow didn't seat the shift cables well. You can check if the cables are knocked off their brackets under the car.
  11. Ahsai
    Please try to check this thread and decode the reason behind the blinking warning light. If the reservoir is full, the radiators should be full too, unless you got air trapped in the system. Any recent work on the engine?
  12. Ahsai
    What's the coolant level and are the radiator fans working?
  13. Ahsai
    I'm not sure about whether the steps are exactly the same. Here's another post for a 944 if that helps. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/288809-944-alternator-replacement-photos.html Assuming your multimeter is accurate, your readings point to a bad alternator. You can take the alternator to an auto parts store for testing to confirm. It could be the regulator and/or diodes inside the alternator. The shop should be able to pinpoint that.
  14. Ahsai
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/voltage-regulator/92860314200~bos/
  15. Ahsai
    Sounds like a bad regulator to me. Also check out this Pelican article http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche_944_Turbo/55-ELEC-Voltage_Regulator_Replacement/55-ELEC-Voltage_Regulator_Replacement.htm
  16. Ahsai
    For reference, the battery should measure 12.5 to 12.7v when the car is off. When the engine is running and maybe with some load such as headlights and a/c, the voltage at the battery should be between 13.5v to 14.5v at all times at any rpm.
  17. Ahsai
    Saw that you're in Canada but probably it's the same there. In US here, you can bring your battery to any auto parts stores (that sell batteries) and have them load test your battery. Having the right multimeter is a start but it's in no way a guarantee to be successful. Electrical troubleshooting does require basic electrical knowledge. With a good multimeter, at least you can check the charging system. If you're not comfortable with any of these, taking it to a good garage will be the best solution.
  18. Ahsai
    This one looks like the one from the engine to the chassis. The other major one is the one from the battery to the chassis. I still recommend starting with checking the battery and the charging system first amd see if they are healthy first.
  19. Ahsai
    This?
  20. Ahsai
    This one has a slightly better spec (0.7% accuracy). Re your problem. Have you checked if your battery cables are tight and corrosion free? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O0HLBJ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500248733&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+current+clamp+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=417d7jMeCYL&ref=plSrch
  21. Ahsai
    Btw, you need to set your meter to 50 so the full scale sweep indicates 50v.
  22. Ahsai
    Wow, reminds me of what I used for my childhood electronic projects :) Sorry to say but this meter won't be accurate enough for this diagnostic purpose. Digital meters are very accurate and affordable these days. This one is nice because it can measure voltage and current drain by clamping the meter around the battery cables. No need to disconnect any circuits. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500248733&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+current+clamp+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=41sD0XebR4L&ref=plSrch
  23. Ahsai
    You need to set it to a range that is larger than the expected measurement. DC like Loren said. In this case it's 50v. Is it a digital meter? We also need the first decimal reading. E.g., 12.1v vs 12.7v makes a huge difference. A photo of the meter dial might help.
  24. Ahsai
    Is your voltmeter accurate? I don't think you can get 13v with the engine off. If it's accurate 15 and 16v are way above the proper charging voltage (13.5-14.5v). You may want to have you battery tested first.
  25. Ahsai
    I'll repeat here again in case you missed it. Please refer to the Pelican steps. If you use the cams hold down tools that John mentioned, they will work buy they don't index the cams so you need to make sure you're at the right TDC before opening the cam cover. At the right TDC, the notch at the end of the intake cam of bank 2 above the scavenge pump should point TOWARD the crankshaft (should point away if you were working on bank 1). This is critical because the cams will have the least stress on them (from the valve springs) only in this position.
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