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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Looks like the culprit may be the pedal position sensor. The reading of potentiometer 1 needs to be exactly double that of pot 2. With key ON engine OFF, monitor these two numbers while you press on the gas pedal slowly for the whole range of motion of the pedal, then repeat a few times. Look carefully for spots where these two numbers are not 1:2
  2. Ahsai
    With key ON engine off, use Duratmetric Activation under a/c or dme (I forgot) to activate the compressor clutch, air blower fan, and servo motors on the air blower box. With key OFF, remove both fuses E5 and A7 and leave them uninstalled. Check them and then reinstall them. See if that makes a difference.
  3. Ahsai
    BTW, I agree the problem is not in the cooling fans, resistors, and relays because of the Durametric test results.
  4. Ahsai
    Indeed very weird. Did you scan the climate control module using Durametric? Any error codes? Can you also check if the compressor engages at all? I think Judgejon maybe onto something with the control unit being faulty. I wonder if it's as simple as a sensor issue e.g., a faulty sensor things the temp is way low so that prevents the a/c from operation all together.
  5. Ahsai
    Do your vanity mirror lights work? They are powered off from the same circuit as the door panel lights. The door panel lights are directly controlled by the alarm module. Can't explain why both went out. Have you checked the bulbs?
  6. Ahsai
    Does your window drop automatically for 1/2" or so AND STAY THAT WAY when you open the door?
  7. Ahsai
    Hi Chamilka! Do you have a Durametric? Would be a lot easier to diagnose if you have one. Your problem sounds very strange. when you said no air coming through, did you really mean the a/c blower under the dash is not running? With engine ON, can you turn on the a/c blower fan with the a/c OFF? Do you have air coming through that way?
  8. Ahsai
    Wish all electrical issues were that easy :)
  9. Ahsai
    What was the voltage reading in the dash voltmeter? How old is the battery? Does the LED on the key fob light up when you press the buttons?
  10. Ahsai
    http://fdmotorsports.net/fister-exhaust-996/
  11. Ahsai
    When trying to lock using the key fob, does the car beep? When key fob is working, it can only unlock the doors but not lock tye doors?
  12. Ahsai
    Those two bolts are captured so they can only be loosen and not removed. The middle support member just drops straight down (may need to pry a bit). It has two u channels (and not holes) where it's clamped down by those two bolts.
  13. Ahsai
    Try a new battery for the key fob.
  14. Ahsai
    That is way too infrequent if the engine cranks at a normal speed (say 100-200rpm). Cylinder fires every 2 crank rotations => spark almost every second on EACH cylinder. I'll ask again. Do the other cylinders exhibit the same firing interval? Have you tried new coils? The crank sensor signal should also increase in magnitude as the engine speeds faster. i wonder if you have a weak CPS signal. BTW, those small capacitors are there to suppress (electrical) noise produced by the coils and injectors. Absolutely nothing to do with the strength of the sparks you get.
  15. Ahsai
    Have you tried new coils and plugs? Remove the coil and plug on another cylinder and see if you get the same spark interruption. If you do, that means the DME is not firing the coils. Next is to use a scope to check the CPS signal and the cam sensor signal on both banks (by back probing the DME pins). The DME picks up the TDC#1 from the CPS the but it needs the cam signal to tell between TDC #1 compression and TDC#1 overlap so it knows when to fire each cylinder. However, the DME might also just fire two opposing cylinders at the same time. One will fire up (at TDC compression) and the sparks will have no effect on the other one.
  16. Ahsai
    Glad you got it sorted and it was simple. Re the flashing light, it indicates the underlying cause with different frequency of flashing. Could be as simple as the level sensor or low coolant. Just search here as it's been covered before many times.
  17. Ahsai
    Che k fuse E1 then the CPS as Loren said. Tach needle not bouncing is a strong indication the CPS or its wiring is bad. Any chance of rodent chewed off some wires?
  18. Ahsai
    I strongly suggest you take it to a shop to check for fuel leak. Basic safety issue. If the puddle of gas was truly from your car, I would be very concerned.
  19. Ahsai
    Check fuse c1 to c4. Any CEL? Also, when cranking, does the tach needle bounce for 1/8" or so?
  20. Ahsai
    Sure. Also a good idea to do the test on the other cylinders for comparison.
  21. Ahsai
    Without a leak down tester, it's hard to say because even a healthy engine can have something like 5% leak and you may see even more on a cold engine or if the valve is not completely seated due to the light spring pressure despite nothing is wrong.
  22. Ahsai
    There's a very simple way to flush the whole system.
  23. Ahsai
    Yeah, does sound like a burnt valve or broken valve spring.
  24. Ahsai
    Any coolant/oil intermix? Sounds like your problem is in the cylinder #6. Could you do a leak down test and check for leak from the valves and piston rings? Borescoping the cylinder (valves and cyl wall) might give us more clues too.
  25. Ahsai
    The voltmeter in the dash should move to about 14v after cold start then it may taper off to 13.5v or so as you drive the car. It should be between 13.5v to 14.5v whenever the car is running. You can take the battery to any auto parts store for testing. For battery drain, open the hood and trip the lock with a screwdriver to trick the car to think the frunk lid is locked. Then close all the doors and arm the car and wait for at least 20min. Use a dc clamp meter on one of the battery cables to check for drain. It should be like 30mA or less. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O0HLBJ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501965197&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+current+clamp+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=417d7jMeCYL&ref=plSrch
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