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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Sounds like it. BTW, TDC whistle is a great sanity check to avoid this (and the 360 offest) mistake. I did the whistle test before sealing the cam covers when I rebuilt my engine even though I was 99.99% sure I timed everything correctly.
  2. Ahsai
    BTW, super easy to verify CORRECT TIMING with any TDC tool. Start with TDC for cyl #1 (like your 1st column). It's actually TDC overlap (as opposed to compression) for cyl #1. Put a TDC tool in cyl #3. Rotate crank 120 degree, cyl #3 should be at TDC (compression). Then put the TDC tool in cyl #5, rotate crank 120 degree, cyl #5 should be at TDC (compression). Repeat the above for cyl #1, #6, #2, #4. Firing order 1-6-2-4-3-5 With your current TIMING, I expect #1&#4 to hit TDC compression simultaneously. Similarly for #2&#5, #3&#6.
  3. Ahsai
    If your timing was correct, you start at column 1 reading, rotate the crank 360, you should see column 2 on bank 2. However, since your columns 1&2 were taken at the SAME TDC without crank rotation, you have the classic problem of failing to turn the crank 360 before timing (and installing the cams) on the second bank. The engine will run on 3 cylinders only. This issue should not have caused valves damage though but I'm not sure why the engine is stiff when it's close to TDC (with the spark plugs removed).
  4. Ahsai
    Yes, that whistle works very well. If the problem is truly the 360 degrees offset, correct either bank should work. Btw, I thought you got your missing variocam solenoid spring fixed sometime ago and everything worked well afterwards? What happened?
  5. Ahsai
    Glad you got it sorted. It's a great demo of the voltage drop test.
  6. Ahsai
    Yup, bank 1 and bank 2 should be offset by 360 degrees crank angle and you should only be able to fit the cam lock tool to ONE of the banks at a time. Looks like you could have fit the tool in bth banks above (barring slight misaligment). To further convince yourself, I suggest you remove all the spark plugs and check compression of each cylinder one by one following the firing order. If your timing is correct, you should get compression of each cylinder in the correct order. With your existing timing, I believe you won't (two opposing cylinders will compress simultaneously).
  7. Ahsai
    The 0.7v voltage drop between the alt output and +ve term post in the engine bay points to the y cable. I had one turned bad after a yr of installation so it's not impossible.
  8. Ahsai
    Thanks. I was thinking this could be a good confirmation and easy diagnosis for others in thr future.
  9. Ahsai
    Great, you got a self-healing 996! :)
  10. Ahsai
    Glad you've found your problem. Just curious when your a/c doesn't work, can you try if your wipers work? They get power from the same circuit after the igniti switch.
  11. Ahsai
    Check fuses C7 and D6 and relay #18 inside the left kick panel. Maybe your a/c compressor clutch is toast.
  12. Ahsai
    Yes, you got enough refrigerant for sure so that's not the problem. Does the a/c clutch click and engage at all when you turn on the a/c?
  13. Ahsai
    John is right. However, you can still check the static pressure when the engine is off. It should be ~70-80PSIG on either low/high side (temperature dependent). If you have some very low numbers, your pressure switch will prevent the compressor from being activated.
  14. Ahsai
    A few things come to mind. They may not be coherent... - Checked fuses C1-C4 and E1? - coolant temp reading correct? - have you tried e-gas calibration? - have you checked for sparks when the engine doesn't fire up? - retiming of bank 1...360 degrees offset of bank 2 was ensured? - No special tricks in Durametric AFAIK during staring - Perhaps worthwhile to check for compression in firing order - Have you tried with no MAF? - What's the MAF voltage reading with key ON engine OFF? (should be 1.1v or so)
  15. Ahsai
    In that case, the strongest suspects are the starter y-cable and the engine ground strap (behind the right rear wheel on the cam cover). To diagnose the cables, this may help
  16. Ahsai
    A genuine water pump from Sunset is $323 + shipping https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oem-parts/porsche-water-pump-99710601106/?c=Zz1jb29saW5nLXN5c3RlbSZzPXdhdGVyLXB1bXAmaT02OTMzNTgwNSZyPTEmYT1wb3JzY2hlJm89OTExJnk9MjAwNiZ0PWNhcnJlcmEtcyZlPTMtOGwtaDYtZ2Fz I believe the pump is made by Pierburg so that may not be a bad option.
  17. Ahsai
    Very strange indeed. However, if the 10s delay is actually true, how to explain the ~once per every 3 seconds spark during the 10s? You would think the DME either wants to fire up the engine or cut the sparks completely but not something in between...
  18. Ahsai
    Hence my comment on modulemaster.com but you need to make sure that's your problem first. If the refrigerant is low, the a/c compressor will NOT come on. There's a pressure switch to detect that. You can hook up an a/c pressure gauge on the low pressure side to check for pressure.
  19. Ahsai
    Make sure the battery is in good condition. Then check the output directly at the back of the alternator. If it's as low as it shows on the voltmeter on the dash, it's the alternator. If the voltage is normal at the alternator (say 14v), check the cables (ground, starter cable) using voltage drop test to id where you are losing voltage.
  20. Ahsai
    You can also send your unit to modulemaster.
  21. Ahsai
    You can use a 9v battery to test your bulbs. If it's not the bulbs, I have no other ideas.
  22. Ahsai
    The orientation light (LED) above the inside door latch is also from the same circuit. Are those working? They may be very dim and can only be seem in total darkness.
  23. Ahsai
    You got a strange problem and it's not the fuses (B8, E1, E4) because as I tried to explain before, the vanity lights are on the same circuit as the door panel lights.
  24. Ahsai
    Use a soft plastic spatula to pry it up carefully on the rear section of the cover.
  25. Ahsai
    See this thread here http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=821176
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