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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    A used engine may not be a bad alternative in this case. Check out the seller qualityporscheparts on ebay and they take reasonable offers and have a grrat reputation. This is one example.
  2. Ahsai
    Have you checked fuses C1-C4 and E1?
  3. Ahsai
    Leonidas, You have a c2 so yours a tranaxle (transmission and differential are combined). Only 2.7 liter of this fluid and you're good to go! https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oem-parts/porsche-transmission-oil-man-00004330549
  4. Ahsai
    Did you mean P0507 (Idel air control at stop)?
  5. Ahsai
    Inside the airbox, unfortunately
  6. Ahsai
    ^That and check fuses C1-C4 and E1.
  7. Ahsai
    If memory serves, I broke the bolt loose with a 1/4" dr 10mm deep socket fist, then backed it out using the swivel socket.
  8. Ahsai
    Have you tried a 1/4" drive socket? I also have a 1/4" dr swivel 10mm socket just for that bolt. Works like a charm.
  9. Ahsai
    Should be like this
  10. Ahsai
    Are you sure your coils have no cracks? A lot of the cracks (black on black hair lines) are very difficult to see unless you examine every inch very carefully. How old are the coils?
  11. Ahsai
    Have you checked if fuses B1 and B10 are blown?
  12. Ahsai
    I noticed that but the instrument cluster is also powered by unswitched power (fuse B1) from the battery so I had to ask...
  13. Ahsai
    You mean the gauges stay frozen even after you disconnect and reconnect the battery? Or the gauge needles will go back to 0's once battery is disconnected and they will move back to the positions in the photo once the battery is reconnected? Without power, I would think the needles should all go back to "0"...
  14. Ahsai
    Try this. Remove fuse B1 for a few seconds and reinstall.
  15. Ahsai
    ^+1 not just because they are the board sponsor but because their price and services are great. I've been buying parts from them for more than 10yrs. Last rebuild I had I got thousands dollars worth of engine parts from them, all shipped to my front door.
  16. Ahsai
    You'll be fine with the traditional 4/5 arms stand as long as you spread out the load evenly and add washers between the arm and the engine case to protect the engine case. 996 yoke is available for about $400 but I have not tried them https://www.ebay.com/i/261764559369?chn=ps&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fi%252F261764559369%253Fchn%253Dps%26itemid%3D261764559369%26targetid%3D376697423265%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9061210%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D962146729%26adgroupid%3D46733577494%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-376697423265%26abcId%3D1129816%26merchantid%3D113744743%26gclid%3DCj0KCQiAnuDTBRDUARIsAL41eDrldA7xai4s9iFiXwr3tF75qw5ujgzVqe2UAVU4xIV2Ndp18P9WlLsaAmy7EALw_wcB%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1433758051698 Also here, even cheaper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1662099 Personally I use this one. Works great! https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/1250-lbs-U-Style-Engine-Stand-P12047.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnuDTBRDUARIsAL41eDpsinJZL2Tunp6ejjm45romqGFBjn4y_3qNxU6KEoXrI7NB38pqnbAaAokJEALw_wcB
  17. Ahsai
    Wow, that's extreme and I agree you are lucky. My guess is some debris got sucked into the pump and almost seized it completely. The bump will draw a lot of current in that case. Will be interesting to remove the pump and check if it's seized. There should be a teabag filter at the inlet. Also make sure the fuel tank bottom is free of debris.
  18. Ahsai
    There is only one fuel pump relay like you described. Not sure what you meant by the second relay. Assume you meant the DME relay, then it should be fine because your tach needle moves. Relay locations ...more links here
  19. Ahsai
    ^What Joe said. The e-gas calibration has nothing to do with error code reading. Definitely use the Durametric to retrieve any error codes on the DME.
  20. Ahsai
    First do an e-gas calibration (key in last position before crank for 60s then key OFF for 10s. Do not touch the gas pedal the whole time). Do you have a scanner that can retrieve error codes? When you crank, the tach needle should raise about 1/4" if you look closely. If not, it's likely a bad CPS or wiring problem. Next check the fuel pressure and flow rate like John mentioned above.
  21. Ahsai
    Yes, there's a 15 amp fuse protecting the cigarette lighter. In the event of alternator failure, it's likely your car will need more than 15A of current to power its engine, DME, headlights, etc. If your battery is healthy, it should last you some miles. A healthy battery should have tens of Ah reserved capacity.
  22. Ahsai
    ^Agreed. IMS Solution is the best, period.
  23. Ahsai
    ^Agree with John above. I also checked with Jake and that's what he said "Only the M97 IMSB should be left as it is. See the future IMS Video series from PCA for the details on this from Mr. Raby. Those videos are yet to be posted, but they have been recorded." So if you plan to remove the flange, you may as well change the bearing to the dual row ceramic from LN. Note the ceramic bearing is open so engine oil can enter and leave it freely. Because of that I also recommend installing the LN spin on filter to avoid any debris from entering the oil (and IMSB) (e.g., if the bypass valve in the stock oil filter is tripped)
  24. Ahsai
    Yes, your imsb looks like dual row because of the shallow dish flange. Don't quote me but I think the latest reco from Jake is leave the dual row alone. You can just use some water and simple green to clean that area under the heat exchanger. The deposit will be difficult to remove though.
  25. Ahsai
    The oil leak looks like faulty AOS which allows excessive oil vapor sucked into the intake. Remove the throttle body and check deep inside the intake manifolds and see if you got puddle of oil. Definitely replace the AOS. Calcium deposit under the coolant/oil heat exchanger is normal. Replace the rms for sure (it's the old style).
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