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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    On a stock 996, the fuel pump (relay) will be run for only about a second when you turn the key to the last position before crank and stays there. Then once engine is running, the pump will keep running. Any sparks when cranking?
  2. Ahsai
    Um, sounds more like fuel pressure to me. Still no tach bounce? Have you tried the waekon tester again? If there are sparks but still not fired up, it's very likely fuel related. If no sparks, given you have the correct voltage on the start lock relay (means immo and DME are happy) and no code, the only thing I can think of is CPS related.
  3. Ahsai
    My posts above were the starting points. There are quite a few more things to check before we even hit the immo.
  4. Ahsai
    What kind of diagnostic have you done so far to fault the immo? There are a few non-immo related faults that can produce the exact symptoms you mentioned.
  5. Ahsai
    Also check out this excellent article by Richard Hamilton. It explains how every works, which will give you more confidence of a correct diagnosis. https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/217-door-microswitches/
  6. Ahsai
    Check fuses C1 to C4 and E1 first. If it is a stick shift, jump the clutch switch too. Do you know if your key fob ever works on the car? I.e., are you sure it matches the immo?
  7. Ahsai
    "when I release the latch the window goes up and the door clunks and won't shut. " <- That is in indication the external microswitch on the door latch is bad, a very common problem. You will need to remove the door latch to address that. See post #43 of this thread here. Also this thread.
  8. Ahsai
    Yes, it looks good now and agree with your explanation as well.
  9. Ahsai
    You may want to retrace your diagram above. Pin 85 of the ignition relay should be ground and pin 30 should be connected to fuse C2 directly. Fuel pump relay pin 86 should connect to start lock relay pin 86.
  10. Ahsai
    Looks like it's pin 66 of the DME, "Actuation start lock". It supplies GROUND voltage (close to 0v) when the DME and immo are happy. Or pin 85 of the start lock relay - relay #7 - yellow/violet/brown wire. See the diagrams in the last post here.
  11. Ahsai
    On a stock car there is a starter interlock relay that is powered by the DME that activates ONLY if the DME and immo are happy. Since your car had been rewired, not sure where that wire is connected to now. Alternatively you can find out the corresponding DME pin.
  12. Ahsai
    Have you verified the Waekon tester on another running car?
  13. Ahsai
    Any error codes on the DME? MAF having voltage means the DME has power. Is it easy yo get to any O2 sensor connector? If it is, you also want to check for +12v on any black wire. The coils and the injectors are on the same circuit. Any tach needle bounce while cranking?
  14. Ahsai
    May also want to check out this shop. People have good experience with it.
  15. Ahsai
    The air volume is low even if you set the fan speed to full speed? Sounds like an air distribution issue to me. Any error code of the unit (e.g., read by Duramatric or Porsche scanner)?
  16. Ahsai
    Ah I see. Is the 40amp fuse the one for the SAI pump? If so, it's connected directly to the battery +ve terminal so having 12v there really doesn't tell you whether the DME gets power.
  17. Ahsai
    No need to remove the MAF sensor! Just disconnect its electrical connector and check the pins on the connector like I described. If no voltage there, you will need to trace the relays below the parcel shelf.
  18. Ahsai
    I misunderstood your post. I thought you were saying P1508 points to the TB per Porsche. I looked it up and the documentation of P1508 is thin. The only troubleshooting step is to replace the DME like you described. The only clue I saw now is the majority of the P15xx codes are related to the throttle body. Of course it's obvious now after your experience. It's not a very common failure for sure and good job tracking it down. I'm sure this thread will be useful for others in the future.
  19. Ahsai
    Well, you never told us about the P1508, which correctly pointed to your throttle body. Glad you got it sorted though. BTW, just want to comment we should really trust the DME codes (most of the time). In this case it's easy for the DME to see the fault because there are TWO independent sensors (really potentiometers) inside the throttle body so if one of them acts up, it's obvious by comparing the readings of the two.
  20. Ahsai
    BTW, I mentioned the MAF sensor and O2 sensor +12v power because those are the easiest to access in then engine bay (very easy to disconnect and don't affect cranking and firing at all). It may be worthwhile to hook up the multimeter to them and see if they get power during cranking. If not, then the engine electronics basically does not have power to them at all. I've developed the following troubleshooting steps for a stock 996/Boxster to check the two main circuits. With key ON engine OFF, check if the main MFI relay supplies power to the DME and sensors: o Unplug MAF and verify pin 2->+12v pin 4->+5v With key ON engine OFF, check if the Ignition relay supplies power to the coils, injectors, and O2 sensors o Unplug any O2 sensor and verify any black wire has +12v
  21. Ahsai
    I use this tool and it works very well on our engine with the limited clearnace of the coils. There are cloned versions that are a bit cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/Waekon-76562-Quick-Variable-Sensitivity/dp/B0021UPE58?crid=W1J35BKWCACE&amp;keywords=cop+spark+tester&amp;qid=1537915077&amp;sprefix=cop+spark&amp;sr=8-1&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_1 Is it cable throttle or e-gae? If e-gas, you may want to do an e-gas recalibration. Then next is still to check for sparks and fuel presaure.
  22. Ahsai
    Btw, may want to recheck fuses C1 to C4 and E1.
  23. Ahsai
    Since it's not stock wiring, the typical troubleshooting steps (that assumes certain DME behavior) may not help. You may want to check if you get +12v on your MAF and O2 sensor with key ON engine off (not sure what that corresponds to your system). If not, your engine electronics are not even getting power, which would explain the non bouncing tach.
  24. Ahsai
    No tech bounce likely means the crank position sensor is bad but if that:s the case, jump start should not have helped. The immobilizer is likely fine because otherwise the DME won't allow the starter to crank at all (assume you did not rewire the starter circuit). Have you checked for sparks and fuel pressure?
  25. Ahsai
    Yes as Loren showed above. You can see the ring of the cabke hidden between the bottom of the A-pillar and the door hinge with the passenger door opened.
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