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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Real simple: - Disconnect both cables at the spring loaded connectors when the shifter is in neutral position - Put alignment tool to lock the shifter in neutral - Reconnect the cables. They will fall in the correct position automatically BTW, the white alighment tool in the pic seems to be for the 996 stock shifter but I could be wrong. The 997 stock shifter tool is green and looks a little differently to me...you will see find out anyway if it's not (it won't fit).
  2. Ahsai
    It is similar to the B&M short shifter install (http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/45135.pdf skip steps 23 - 31 inclusive) but simpler because the 997 stock shifter comes with the shifter tower, which you just swap out with the stock unit as a whole. Basically you remove the center console and the shift knob, then disconnect the two shifter cables, then remove 4 bolts to remove the whole shifter tower. Then swap in the new shifter, use the centering tool to lock the new shifter in the neutral position, then connect the cables. No marking, cutting, etc are needed.
  3. Ahsai
    Congrats! Certiainly the best answer should be the whole thread.
  4. Ahsai
    Agree that -4v and -6v makes no sense. If indeed that's what the DME sees, you found your problem. Again, the O2 sensor 1 on both banks should swing between 0.2v to 0.8v about once a second when fully warmed up and idling. If it does not, either the sensor is faulty or you have a wiring problem. The post-cat sensors should read very steady at around 0.6v and swing only from time to time (much less freq than once a second) if I remember correctly when idling and warmed up.
  5. Ahsai
    Even w/o durametric, you can use any obdii scanners that can display real-time data to check if bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor is swinging between 0.2 and 0.8v at idle about once a second. Is the b1s1 disconnected?
  6. Ahsai
    Glad you like it. The stock shifter is a joke.
  7. Ahsai
    Why not bring it to a shop that has a smoke machine to check for leaks? That way, you address all the leaks in one shot if there are more than one.
  8. Ahsai
    Where exactly is the crack on the hose? That hose inserts into the plastic elbow, which has an o-ring inside. The hose is then locked by a plastic c-clip on the elbow. The o-ring on mine has hardened and I could hear hissing sound (air leak) where the hose meets the elbow. O-ring replaced and problem solved.
  9. Ahsai
    Agreed. My bad, I thought he meant the engine did not even try to turn. In addition to what you mentioned, the only thing I can think of is some parasitic drain. The voltmeter should read ~14v when the car is just started. It stays between 13-14v when driving regardless of rpm. If yours reads lower, your alternator is failing or you have bad wiring.
  10. Ahsai
    Number 16 in this diagram. Very common problem. Car would not crank until this switch is activated by depressing the clutch pedal fully. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/29196-clutch-switch-what-functions-are-they/?hl=%2Bclutch+%2Bswitch This switch fails sometimes. The other suspect would be the ignition switch itself.
  11. Ahsai
    Try to jump the clutch switch next time if it's a stick shift.
  12. Ahsai
    I'm not sure it should do that, it is supposed to only run at start up to aid cold start emissions........... Yea, that's what I thought too until I saw a document (most likely in renntech) saying there other non start-up conditions that it will run as well. I can't locate the document now though...
  13. Ahsai
    Are you sure it's not the secondary injection pump you are hearing? My sec inj pump turns on for 10 seconds or so sometimes when in stop and go traffic.
  14. Ahsai
    Yes, 2586 spark plug firings, which is 862 revolutions (3 firings per revolution) ...at redline that's about 9 seconds worth total for the whole life of the car up to now. The hr shows the time of the last occurrence. The 1 firing for range 2 means practically the redline was exceeded for only 1/3 of crank revolution, which means nothing practically. Yes, 60k miles in 2258.2hr equates to 26 mph averaged over the whole life of the car up to now.
  15. Ahsai
    You have a total 2586 number of spark plug firings during all range 1 rpm (Rev limiter was hit) where the last occurrence was at 2224 hr of operation of the engine. Similarly, you got only 1 spark plug firing during range 2 rpm (mechanical overrev) which occurred at 1925.5hr. Your engine has a total of 2258.2 hr.
  16. Ahsai
    Already did but thanks:) Car is an '03 with 55k miles. Thinking whether to replace the idle pulleys. No free play but some gritty sound. They are expensive for a pulley...
  17. Ahsai
    Yes, I already bought those parts (a low temp version). I just want to replace as much coolant as I can at the same time.
  18. Ahsai
    Hi , I plan to change out my coolant and just want to find the easist way to do that. I plan to drain from the coolant drain plug on the engine, then disconnect the lower coolant hoses from both radiators.Would this work? Total capacity should be about 6 gals and I hope to get at least 4 gals out with this method. TIA
  19. Ahsai
    Bentley's repair manual calls for removing the bolts on the rear stabilizer bar (anti-sway bar) and let it hang under the engine. Does anyone do this and know why this step is needed? TIA
  20. Ahsai
    Why not get the OE cap (<$10 from Sunset Porsche) to eliminate that as a problem first? I just replaced mine preventively as there are small cracks on the o-ring on my old cap. The o-ring is already $5 or so so I decided to just get the whole cap.
  21. Ahsai
    BMW wheel cleaners work really well too. You would think they are the experts with all the excessive brake dust on the bimmers :)
  22. Ahsai
    Hi, does anyone know how this vertical vacuum hose seals with the L-shape elbow? I removed the gray c-clip and pulled out the hose and expected to find an o-ring somewhere inside the elbow. Instead, I found a hard plasic bush inside. Maybe hardened-o-ring? Definitely feels more like hard plastic tough. Any ideas? Cannot find this hose and elbow in the porsche parts catalogue either... The leak comes and goes when I wiggle the hose so defintiely it could seal better. TIA
  23. Ahsai
    I used wurth hhs2000 which is quite light. I never tried to spray the inside of the clutch master cylinder as the bubble portion shows. I was afraid of destroying any rubber seals inside with the wrong type of lube.
  24. Ahsai
    For me, the squeak was from where the red arrow is pointing at.
  25. Ahsai

    tool

    Ahsai replied to coleta's topic in Workshop Tools

    I use this one from Sears which looks identifcal to what's in your photo. $40+, made in USA and super sturdy. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-strut-spring-compressor-tool-with-built-in/p-00947057000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
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