Ahsai

+1 on what perryinva said. For the hoses, they feel like they're GLUED to the metal flanges. You need to break loose the surface between the hose and the metal. You can use a pick or something similar. Be careful not to mar the metal or cut into the hose with the pick though. Just insert the pick and try to go around the hose perimeter to break the surface, then just twist and pull, it should come off. I only disconnected three hoses for complete coolant drain and water pump and thermostat replacement. Each hose took me only a few minutes.

The item I listed MAY slow down the wear, not stopping it or reversing any damages already there. I see no logic to rebuild my engine now. My engine is strong and smooth and has no symptoms. Even Jake himself did not even hint I should rebuild it now.

1) Most likely not. I have a 20 gal, which kicked on continuously at the end of the vacuum draw 2) I used 1/4" sockets for all the 7 bolts on the pump. I used a 3/8" drive semi-deep socket for final torque on all 7 bolts. Please see post #15 http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=737700&referrerid=32590 3) Please don't. Can block coolant passages if oozed out 4) I think that means 4 revisions newer than stock

First I'm not panicking :) Actually I have two reports saying the same, each covering 5k miles and one year on the oil. I've been using the same oil and 5k oil change routine for the past 5 years but only started UOA 1 yr ago. So I would say they are consistent and they eflect a two-year period. Current plan is to get another report in 3k and re-evaluate if anything needs to be done. Thanks for your reply.

BTW, this is a pretty good video to get the idea (except the sealant part. If surfaces are properly cleaned, sealant is not needed).

The support engine part is easy. Just jack the engine at the strongest point (see Oriental express post on putting the car on jack stands) using a wood plank/hockey puck. You only need to raise the engine something like an inch to release its pressure exerted on the engine support bracket that's bolt on to the car frame via the engine mounts.

Yea, I may consider that on the DT40. I already have one done on my current oil (Motul x-cess 5w-40).

My used oil (5k miles) has ~25 ppm copper and ~18 ppm iron. Jake's expert opinion is that the rod bearings have been compromised.The car has 50k miles with oil change every 5k miles. Very well maintained and driven. Currently no symptoms and no oil leak. Engine feels smooth and strong.Now obviously I'm not going to tear the engine apart at this point. My current plan is to try the following to slow down the wear, if possible.1) JG break in oil + DT402) LN full flow oil filter adaptor3) Filtermag4) Oil change every 3kI'm considering doing the above in stages so I can tell the difference of each change. However, Even though my car is a DD, I only put about 5k miles on it so the next oil change will be a year from now. That will take a few years to try all of the above.Any other things you can think of that I should try?

+996 I just did the pump and low temp thermostat recently as a preventive maintenance. My car is '03 with only 55k miles. Even at that low mileage, it makes some grinding noise when spin by hand.

Thanks for sharing.

Tesla Model S! You've got good tastes :)

You may also want to do at least a visual inspection to make sure the lines it hooks up to are in good condition and not leaking. The most definitive way is to remove the valve and test it by trying to blow through it, with and w/o power applied. Good luck.

Thanks for the rep! Hope that's really the culprit. You're so lucky to have a Porsche mechanic as your neighbor :)

Ah, Loren comes to the rescue :)

Ill check that, but wouldnt the purge valve show up as a different code? thanks. My understanding is, not necessarily. I just checked the Bentley manual and it also mentions the purge valve (or PCV valve) for P0440. There are two other PCV codes P0444 and P0445 which seem to concern more about the electrical behavior of the valve (driver stage check).

You may want to check your purge valve also

Thanks! Looks like something that belongs to WWI LOL

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/249229-bad-oil-pressure-sensor-whats-inside.html Can someone please confirm? TIA

Oh I see. Thanks for the data. I measured mine using a bucket so that may not be very accurate. Even with compressed air, there will always be some residual coolant here and there. At least I'm happy that I was able to drain the radiators and heater core easily, which normally requires a lot more disassembly.

Hey, Logray, care to elaborate? Spec is 22.5L, which is 5.94 gal

Yes, that's why I mentioned a few PSI will do. The steps above also made sure there's always an outlet for the coolant to be pushed out before introducing air. So practically the system is never sealed hence minimal pressure build up. Ok, warning added in the oringal post.

Hi guys,Just want to share with you I've found a simple way to drain all the 6 gal coolant out. I've looked at other DIYs and even the factory procedures but they all involve disconnecting coolant hoses that are under the car, which requires removing the underside panels. I'm too lazy so I studied the coolant diagrams and came up with a much simpler way.The total capacity is ~6 gal and you will drain ALL of it if you follow the steps below. Real simple.1) Remove the coolant reservoir cap and open the coolant drain plug at the bottom of the engine (SOP) and out come ~2.5 gal - all the coolant trapped in the engine block. Now put back and tighten the drain plug to seal the system. 2) Put a 5gal bucket under the big hose connected to the thermostat. This hose is the coolant return hose from the radiators in the front. Disconnect the hose and out come ~0.5 gal. Now this is the fun part. Introduce compressed air to the coolant reservoir neck (a few PSI will do. DO NOT EXCEED 10 PSI. I used a simple rubber gasket to seal it). Be prepared, 2.5gal will gush out with force from the big hose - Congrats, you just drained all the coolant trapped in the front radiators! Basically the air goes into the radiators via the vent hoses and forces the water out from the big return hose. 3) After steps 1 and 2, you've already drained 5.5gal (>90%) so you can stop here if you're lazy. For the perfectionists, of course we need to track down that remaning 0.5gal. Where the heck is it????You guessed it.....it's trapped in the heater core!! There's no valve. Forget about turning ON the heat when draining, etc. The coolant just recirculates the heater core whenever the engine is running. Now go disconnect the heater core coolant supply line from the engine and remove the two bolts holding the hard metal line so you can tilt down the hose like below. Remove the drain plug again and introduce compressed air at the hose side. 0.5gal will gush out from the drain plug and from the metal flange where the hose is connected to. Note this is the ONLY way to drain the heater core because the IN/OUT hoses connected to the heater core are at the top of the core. You can disconnect hoses all day long. Without force, the coolant will just sit at the core.Now go reconnect the two hoses and tighten the drain plug and you're done So in summary, the engine holds 2.5gal, the radiators and hoses under the car hold 3gal, and the heater core holds 0.5gal. There's your 6gal I used the cable operated hose clamp tool and a pick to break the surface between the hose and the metal part. Took me at most 5 minutes to disconnect each hose, if that. i think with practice, you can finish the above within 1/2hr. Note you need the uview vacuum tool to refill now that you've replaced all the coolant with air.

Can you retrieve the code(s)?

Forgot to mention, you should disconnect the cables at the spring loaded connectors and when reconnecting the cables (as shown in post #3 here). Do not push or pull the cables. Just let the male ends (with threads) "fall" naturally into the spring loaded receving ends for the threads to engage.

The cables don't adjust themselves once you reconnect them. However, you align the cables by putting the gearbox in neutral, locking the shifter in neutral, and then reconnect the cables. You may want to check at the transmission side under the car how the cables are connected to it. The cables may be knocked out of the metal brackets and also the cable ends (sockets) could have worn and created extra play.