Ahsai

Sounds like your clutch is not completely disengaging even when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Can you confrim also with car on jack stands, and motor running, the tranny will shift into all gears but the wheels will be spinning even with the clutch fully depressed? I would pressure bleed the clutch properly first.

The Verdict is in ...... The drive plate bent tooth was without doubt the reason for the long crank problem. :thumbup:

I would say pass also just to be safe.

+1 I see your dilemma and reasoning. As JFP said, if the CPS signal disappears, the DME will shut down the fuel pump. That itself means the CPS is monitored all the time.My speculation is at cranking, there's no reference point for the DME to synchronize with the CPS signal so the DME is looking for the "reference mark signal" to syncronize with it so it's less tolerant to any imperfect waveforms. However, once synchronized, the DME is still continuously monitoring the waveform but it's tolerant for small variations so the engine still runs fine even the CPS is not optimal?The DME complain is pretty clear though. The mystery continuous....

Good point. If the crank signal is weak/not proper, I think the DME would not even try to fire the plugs. No expert by any strech of imagination but I'm pretty sure the CPS is continuously monitored since there are so many other functions depending on it (e.g., relative camshaft position, misfire detection, etc.) As far as I know, there's nothing in durametric that directly displays CPS signal. There's a rough running value, which itself is based on the CPS measuring the acceleration/decceleration of the flywheel. Not sure what we can derive from that though.The mystery here is why it doesn't work when cranking but it does when the engine is up and running.

I do not have and oscilloscope im going to try using a bosch hybrid multimeter set on the ms-pulse setting to test it that wayIm trying to avoid spending 2000.00 for an ocilloscopetypically this tool im using is used to test for example the injector pulseNot sure the hybrid mutlimeter can verify all the info of the waveform though, especially the reference mark signal as shown herehttp://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40945-cam-position-sensor-resistance-readings/?p=217349I have a 2-(analog)channel DSO203 ($170 from eBay. 2 analog channels. It also has 2 digital channels but that's irrelevant for our usage) and it works well for occasional use (not rugged enough for a shop environment).I've read some threads about issues of the gap between the sensor and the flywheel tooth. Someone had to use a washer to space out the distance a bit but if you're using the correct OE parts, I don't see how this is a problem.

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state. A lot of people make that expensive mistake, often damaging the CTEK before the fuse lets go.Actually the ctek has circuits to potect itself from overloading in supply mode. Way smarter than I thought. From the owner manual" In this mode, MULTI US 7002 can also be used as a power generation unit for operating equipment that requires 13.6V and a maximum of 7A. If the selected current exceeds 7A, the output voltage will drop as the load increases. The charger has electronic overload protection in this mode, which is activated if the charge is so great that the output voltage from the charger falls below around 9V and the current ís around 7A. In the event of an overload, the charger goes into error mode (lamp 0). Supply mode is indicated with lamp D and lamp 5."Is there also a physical fuse inside? I would expect so for last line of defence....maybe i will open up mine and check. The owner manual doesnt mention any fuse. There is a fuse (3 amp if memory serves) in the line going to the load, it is not in the box itself (the box like bump in the wires): Just to satisfy my own curiosity to see what's inside the US7002 ctek, I opened it up. There is a min-blade 30A fuse soldered in.

I just measured the resistance of my fan (996 624 036 04, same as your original fan?) It has 1.7 ohm, which also explains why I saw ~6A initial draw (12v/1.7 ohm = 7A). Your fan has 1.1ohm instead so initial draw is about 11A, still not 15A but getting close. Keep in mind the meter is not 100% so maybe the true resistnace is below 1.1 ohm...

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state. A lot of people make that expensive mistake, often damaging the CTEK before the fuse lets go.Actually the ctek has circuits to potect itself from overloading in supply mode. Way smarter than I thought. From the owner manual" In this mode, MULTI US 7002 can also be used as a power generation unit for operating equipment that requires 13.6V and a maximum of 7A. If the selected current exceeds 7A, the output voltage will drop as the load increases. The charger has electronic overload protection in this mode, which is activated if the charge is so great that the output voltage from the charger falls below around 9V and the current ís around 7A. In the event of an overload, the charger goes into error mode (lamp 0). Supply mode is indicated with lamp D and lamp 5."Is there also a physical fuse inside? I would expect so for last line of defence....maybe i will open up mine and check. The owner manual doesnt mention any fuse.

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state.

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter.

I guess I missed all the fun but good to see you're making good progress. I would consider swapping in a new fan or a known good fan because even if the measured steady current drawn of the fan is less than the fuse rating, it may still blow the fuse. The reason is the DC motor draws maximum current when it starts to spin but as it's picking up speed, it produces electricity in opposite direction, which reduces the current drawn at the steady state. If the motor somehow get stuck even momentarily, it will blow the fuse (e.g., if you hold the blades with your hand) However, check the steady current first if you can. If that exceeds the fuse rating, you found the sucker. Btw, you can actually put the same fuse in series with the motor and supply 14v or so to power up the fan and see if the fuse blows. That would be a definitive test. 14v you can get from an idling engine or your ctek.

I see that you are already getting a lot of help. I only have two suggestions to make. Get a smart fuse from harborfreight http://www.harborfreight.com/30-piece-self-testing-ato-atc-auto-fuse-set-67693.html Plug it in and let the fuse blow. After that, the LED on the fuse will light up whenever the circuit is powered (when you use durametric to turn on the fan). Now you can go disconnect each segment of the cable starting from the fan end. If the LED goes out, you found the segment that is shorted. Another way is to use a short finder http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-25100-Short-Tester/dp/B000RFLR0U then trace the cable from the source all the way to the fan to see where the short is. This needs knowledge of how the cables are routed though.

Use an oscilloscope to check the DME side (pin #46 signal and pin #32 GND) to make sure it's actually seeing the proper signal?

I used a 1/4" drive swivel 10mm socket + extension. See post #15 here http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/10175752-post15.htmlJust use a little bit of electrical tape to tape the bolt onto the socket and remove the tape once the bolt is in but not tightened.

As promised, here are my measurents taken by Mastercool 52224-B infrared thermometer. Left and right wheels have similar readings so I just listed front and rear. Local drive 30 min in moderate traffic. Outside temp 72F Front Tread 111F Hub 128F Lugnut 102F Rear Tread 120F Hub 115F Lugnut 96F Any possibility of overtightened axle nuts? Though at 350 ftlb, it's hard to imagine over tightening them...

Interesting. Your 85F run, the tires were 132F. I don't think the tires heated up the rims because the rear hubs were only 109F. However, the front hubs were 165F, even hotter than the rotors at 141F. Does look like the heat source is from the hub, as opposed to be from the tires?

Frank, yes I noticed your racing and instructor background and completely understand and agree with you on tire temp. I have same wheels as yours. I happened to pay attention to the wheel temp before because I thought I heard some front bearing noise. I checked my rims' temp like the OP but only using my bare hands. I felt all the wheels are just a little warmer than ambient so when the OP said 170F, that's clearly too hot to touch and hence my comments. Would be curious to see what the OP finds. Maybe there's no problem like you said so he doesn't come back :)

Frank, thanks for your data and taking the time to verify. It's interesting to note the fronts are always a little warmer than the rears, may be attributed to some minimal braking to stop the car before the measurements. I think your last run was closest to my DD routine and it also reflected my experience of wheels just warm but comfortable to the touch.

If you want to try DIY, you can use durametric to log the following to start with during cold start idle: Rpm Coolant temp IAT MAF TRA on both banks FRA on both banks Voltage of all 4 O2 sensors Misfire counters Close loop/open loop status Ignition timing Secondary air injection status Keep logging the above for 5min then give a steady gas just enough to reproduce the symptoms for 10 seconds or so. Repeat the above after car has warmed up and symptoms no longer exist.

Just like JFP said, someone needs to log a lot of parameters during cold start to see what the DME is doing or not doing. Best is to find a shop specialized in Porsche engine diagnostic. IMHO, there is absolutely no guarantee replacing the cats will fix the problem whatever answers you may get here because there are so many possibilities. Since your problem in not intermittent, it should not be that difficult for a competent shop to diagnose the problem.

Did they inspect or replace the #2 coil?

Another indication of margianl AOS is oil sweating and dirt accumulated at the bottom outside of the throttle body due to excessive oil collected via the AOS hose from AOS to intake.

You can use a digital manometer http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FU5HFI Or make your own "U" shape hose version by drilling a hole in a spare oil cap, connect about 5' clear rubber hose to it, and put some engine oil in the hose. A 6" oil reading at idle is good since oil is lighter than water. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/738090-measured-my-crankcase-vacuum-6-water.html Logray has an elegant setup here if you search his posts.

It's 99742401000 and it will fit. It comes with the whole black shifter assembly so you just disconnect the two cables from your assembly and swap out the whole thing. Some good photos here http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-2009-911-997-Carrera-Coupe-H6_3.6L/Search/99742401000/ES1499714/?salesrep=jcrabtree