99911

Not sure if the tension rope for the 2003 is attached differently or not from the '99. Mine is attached at the top to the roof frame via a small metal grommet-like attachment riveted to the roof hardware. The rivet seems to be the weak link. Replacement of the rivet on the "99 is a fairly straight forward process: Tools: Torx drivers - 15 and 20 Phillips head screwdriver Pop rivet and tool 1. Put the top in the service position; 2. Remove the torx screws holding the roof frame seal onto the most forward piece of roof on the side of the broken cable, and also remove the torx screws securing the front roof frame seal retaining strip ( there is no need to remove the roof latch or either centering journal); 3. Carefully loosen and remove the roof frame seal from the side and front side of the roof frame you are working on. There is probably some water tight goop holding it on at the corner, and there is also a clip retaining it to the roof frame at the corner near the front corner forward-facing torx that had to come out. It has been suggested that not all torx along the front retaining strip need to come out. I removed all of them and completely removed the retaining strip since it seems pretty lightweight, and I did not want to run the risk of twisting it inadvertently. 4. Once the seal is out of the way, the phillips screws retaining the forward-most side frame piece can be accessed and removed. 5. At this point you can access the folded under roof material and carefully fold back the side and front material at the corner and work along the side. There again may be some waterproof goop and/or two sided tape. Be careful not to tear the roof fabric. There is an "L" shaped piece of metal that runs along the side of the front frame piece and that is what the rivet holding the tension rope is attached to in my '99. the roof is attached on the side to this piece via clips. The entire piece is folded over with the roof material still attached to properly align the tension rope spring with the retainer with the replacement rivet all at the same time. This would be a good time for an extra set of helper hands. 6. Pop in the new rivet, and reverse the entire process. Should not take more than 15-20 minutes. Word of caution. Have an extension magnet handy for when you drop the torx screw, or it gets stuck up in the rubber seal but not in line with the screw hole. It's probably not a bad idea to cover with a towel any nearby body opens that a dropped screw might fall into. Next time I'll try to take some pictures.

121,000 miles on '99 cab., and still going strong. If something breaks, I fix it. As of 9/30/16, right at 132K and still has excellent pressure and temps. Latest DIY was repairing the passenger side tension rope retainer for the cab top. Last year replaced the IACV to address a rough idle. Both were pretty easy operations.

I've added the third radiator. What is the "fan mod" referred to? I just jumped in on this page, so if it's discussed on a previous page, I'll just apologize for my laziness now and get it out of the way. 120,500 miles and counting. (It's my daily driver.)

I picked up Pentosin CHF 11S at the local NAPA for a little over $20.

I have had the book for about a year and have found it to be very helpful. Not unlike this website. :thumbup:

Hey, tolum, I live in Fort Worth. Can tell us what the steering wheel ran you from Dallas Steering Wheel?

My '99 996 Cab. is still running strong at 107K. No real complaints. With the mileage it has now, I just had some preventive maintenance done (ie: water pump, expansion tank, aos, clutch, IMS upgrade). Love the car, but I think the next one will be a coupe.

Yep, wind screen definitely helps, especially if the windows are up. Helps keep the wind off the back of your neck. Wind still blows your hair around. If you can't stand that, dive a coupe. Every time I think about trading the cab. in for a coupe, I get past it in a couple of minutes. Nothing like a little (lot of) fresh air on a cool morning/evening to get things going.

Excellent, Doohan! Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks

I think I'm going to have to replace the heat exchanger on my '99 Carrera Cab. 6 speed. There is a good how-to here on removing the exchanger but in order to access it I first have to get the wiper linkage and motor out of the way. Does anyone have any tips on the steps necessary to remove the wiper linkage? Obviously, remove wiper arms is probably first on the list, but where do I go from there?

Coolant was replaced along with the water pump less than six months ago.

This might be a dumb question, but I'm asking it anyway. I want to replace the heater core/exchanger in my '99 Carrera Cab 6 speed and am thinking about the Uview Airlift system as part of the process. Has anyone used it to purge air from a filled system, or do I need to drain the entire system, replace the core and then refill the whole system using the Airlift? I'd like to avoid draining and refilling the entire system if I can. And while I'm at it, does anyone have the directions for removing the entire wiper linkage with motor? And the torque specs for reinstallation. (Yes, I did a search.)

Oh, as it turns out, the "I93 code" was the station it was stuck on.

As it turns out, it was as easy as pulling the fuse and reinstalling it. All better now. :D

Hard top is definitely quieter, and keeps out those annoying intermittent drips during downpours. It will also improve visability. A suggestion you also might want to think about is investing in the hanging gear and an electric winch. Makes installing and removing a one person operation, plus you can store it by hanging it from the ceiling in your garage when not in use. Definitely worth the price.