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wross996TT

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Everything posted by wross996TT

  1. Oops...yes boost. 1.0 is fine for K16s...they really are not very efficient at boosts higher than that. Remember is not just about boost, but power. Read all of the codes (use a durametric, PST2 or PIWIS) Green with no shims...1.0 bar.
  2. OK why don't you start randomly changing components instead of understanding what the problem is? Your symptoms do not even sound like plugs...sounds like leaks, but if you want to change them out....why not change the coil packs and MAF while you are at it...then of course you will have spent more than enough to get a code reader and understand what the issues are. After you change the plugs and it isn't fixed we'll give you another list.
  3. broken record....get the codes read....anything from a leak to plugs. same oil.
  4. What are all of your mods? and what turbos do you have? (if you have K16s, then 1.0 is probably right for pump gas) First....what is your sustained flash? Spikes don't really count...so is it possible your sustained boost was 1.0 before? (to check sustained boost do WOT in 3rd and 4th). Second, get your codes read as this may provide some clues. Third, did you install the Forge DVs properly? Check the connections. Fourth, you do need the Forge DVs set-up properly with your other mods. I believe there are 2 springs (green and yellow) and some shims (washers)....check with your tuner for their advice for your car.
  5. First get the codes (I think I heard that somewhere before). It could be many things....from bad gas (fuel) to plugs to idle rpms...
  6. Sorry, Chuck (definately not flaming here)...could you help me understand this...perhaps provide a scientific hypothesis as to why your boost would go up? If your DV goes bad you can't hold boost, lag increases....If your dvs fail...I don't consider that a vacuum leak BTW...if they can't detect the vacuum build up in the intake manifold to remove pressure from the other side of the throttle plate....then serious turbo damage.
  7. a problem is that you have correlated the fuel fill up to the performance problem....this could be pure coincidence (vs. causal). what tool did you use to read the codes....it does sound like a leak or plugs/coil packs.
  8. if it is a leak....it would reduce your boost, not increase it (boost is lost on a leak). Plus you would likely throw codes and feel a performance hit. You could spike .8 on a stock non-x50 with the right environmental conditions.
  9. A non-X50 (or S) will get between .6-.7 stock....we are not talking spikes. This is what you maintain at WOT in 3rd or 4th +. Anything over that is not stock.
  10. i don'T capitalize aNything beCauSe oF the RuLES Cheers cHUCK
  11. Come on Chuck, get that GT3RS clutch package and LWFW....no vibration here.
  12. Some folks attach the release cable with a wire to the back of the tow hook on the front bumper...just somewhere you can get access from the front is OK.
  13. MY and model car, please. If it is MOST, You may need to use a PIWIS or PST2 to re-identify the player in the ring.
  14. Thanks, my next guess is the hydraulic fluid may be low... go here: Fluid fix
  15. I would re-check the connection (where the smarttop module was plugged in).
  16. car model & year please....do you have aftermarket equipment, like SmartTop?
  17. Mine is tight on the top, but relaxed on the edges...by the windows. I think it has to be to allow for the top to operate.
  18. Did you try a search? It works really well...kind of like google. Anyway took me less than .0001 seconds to find this: cab hydraulics
  19. Actually I run the Bosch plug (my tuner recommended it) & I have changed those once as well. With my bone stock car :unsure: none of the plugs last that long. My indy takes care of me :beer:
  20. Chuck, You will love this thread...Denso Platinums The only thing I have read is the Bosch last longer, with no explanation as to why (running colder, material difference???)
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