mhall1019

PM sent. Thanks.

Loren - Is the parts list available in a database format - text or excel? I could use it for organizing large parts orders - prevent making duplicate orders, keeping track of what's been ordered, received, backordered, etc. I'm trying to place a 300+ part # order to Sunset and am having a serious issue keeping track of what's been ordered and received and keeping up with supercessions.I've been downloading sections of it 50 lines at a time, but it's not working real well. Thanks, Mike

Loren: 10 years later, and I read about "sport" pads (genuine, buy from the dealer) in other forums but, I've never seen the part numbers mentioned and its not clear whether they are talking about the PCCBs or not. So, is there now a sport pad for the non-PCCB brake setup and, if so, part numbers please. (PET is not very helpful) Thanks, Mike

Thanks, RFM. I went back to look at the service manual and read again what was said about the procedure and I think my problem is finding the right tool to surround the red ring enough not to break it. My most recent attempt was with a battery cable removal tool and it was very close to working. I am going to write to PCNA and demand they put that tool in the tool kit. I like the idea of lube, primarily because it is something I haven't tried yet..

I managed to break the fitting on the top/side of the PS tank when I tried to remove the hose last time. I bought a GT2/Tip tank and then just had to slip the PS hose into the fitting. Am I the only one in the world who has ever had extreme difficulty removing the hose - its inserted into the fitting that has a reddish/orangey O-ring (?) that actually seems to be made of plastic,This O-ringy part is pushed in while putting inward pressure on the hose fitting. Then, at some point, the fitting on the tank releases the hose. But, it just doesn't happen for me. I don';t seem to be able to push the fitting on the tank in far enough for it to release the hose and using a screwdriver will break off a section of the o-ring. What am I missing? If I find out soon, I will get the engine/trans dropped this afternoon. Thanks, Mike

Does anyone know the layout of the Motronic program and how to update it using a PST2? I just wanted to try to do my own "tune" and couldn't find any instructions on any of the forums. The "tuners" can't be the only ones that can do it. Thanks, Mike

A Datsun 510! Wow, you actually owned one. I used to watch them racing BMW 2002s, Mazda RX4s, and other great IMSA race cars of the day. Anyway, the same fuse is still running in slot C3. I'll wrap the wires before I put it back together, and we'll make sure it isn't the sun sensor. Thanks again for your help.

jp- I think I may have done it when I took the defroster panels out to replace the CF trim that had curled up and fallen off. That is a job I wouldn't try again with the windshield in the car. The problem is that I couldn't get the cable out in the open enough to look at it thoroughly. I think I'll just wrap them and hope I can get the cable back up to connect to the sensor. Its sitting in the cavity where the nav system goes and it will be just about impossible to get it back up through the maze onto the top of the dash. What's the sun sensor for? Can't they just use the clock and see what time it is (adjusted for DST) ;) ? Mike

I have a PST2 clone, but it doesn't have the meter inputs. I documented a summary of the diagnostic procedures above and, after replacing switches and sensors, the only solutions left are to either " check wiring harness" or "replace alarm logic module". Most wiring harnesses are buried behind heater ducting, carpeting, and generally, a cable, for instance the sun sensor 4-wire cable joins a big bunch of cables behind the middle air duct and in order to "check wiring harness", every other group of wires going into that bundle would have to be removed from their termination points so that the wiring harness could be pulled out enough to be able to check it. What Loren did in his last response was to point out all the things that got their power from C3. I had already eliminated a couple of the items, so, when I got to the last one, the sun sensor, and pulled off the connector, and the fuse still blew, I was really frustrated. But then I looked at the four wires going into the sun sensor connector and they looked suspicious - like they might have some insulation scraped off. I untwisted the wires and separated them and the problem hasn't come come back for a whole day. If that is the solution, then it was arrived at by using the simple old technique of checking every path of wires to the fuse. If I find out that the sun sensor is important, I will have to pull out more of the wiring bundle that the sun sensor wires is tied into on the way back to the fuse box. If I can replace that one wiring harness going to the sun sensor I could do that, or I could wrap each of the 4 wires individually with tape so if there is a short between two of them, I will insulate them from each other. If the problem is gone for a week, then I'll start putting things back together and hope its fixed. Mike

I have personally seen a 996 series car burned from a dash fire - you don't want to do that. Yes the sun sensor is part of the same assembly. My first 911 - a '74 that I bought in '84 caught on fire and burned up on my way home from picking it up from the PO. Probably a leak in the oil cooler running onto the exhaust. Anyway, disconnecting the central locking system button had no effect. Fuse blew right away when I inserted it after disconnecting the cable. But the problem could be in the cable itself, I guess. After disconnecting the sun sensor, I got a few locks/unlocks before the fuse blew. The cable going to the sun sensor looked scraped up - potential for a short there. I untwisted the wires a bit, tried a new fuse, and I was able to lock/unlock without blowing fuse, but, it got too dark and cold to try to fish the cable down to where I could look at it closely, so I decided to leave it overnight. I probably scraped up the cable when I took out the defroster panels a couple of years ago. The CF just curled up and fell off. I think you really need to take the windshield out to change those panels. I still have the sun sensor cable to check out and if that's not it, I guess I should check out the other cables getting power through that fuse. I don't have a tilt sensor and siren - I wonder where those cables are tucked away? How likely is it that a cable that is sitting still can have a short most of the time and occasionally isn't shorted? Since the switches have been ruled out, and the cables are just sitting there, its not likely they have a short in them with the symptoms I'm having. This acts like a problem with something with moving parts like a relay. Or a device with semiconductors giving up the ghost. This whole troubleshooting process has been a series of connecting and disconnecting switches, devices and cables and every once in a while the problem goes away for a few clicks of the transmitter, but then the fuse blows. But the same action 5 minutes later doesn't have the same effect. Just a bunch of thinking out loud. Mike

Thanks, Loren, but that can't work. Its too easy. I never bothered to follow the lines from fuse C3 to see where they went. Is the sun sensor up by the red light that shows the alarm system status? I'll check them out tomorrow. I was also thinking about putting a 300 amp fuse in the C3 slot and see which wire melted. Mike

This is Part II of the process of trying to find out why fuse C3 blows as soon as I put the fuse in. This disables the things in the title and prevents the doors from locking other than the driver's door with the key. Story started August 13. So far I have done the following (some unrelated) without finding the solution: 1) Checked battery, voltage was low (12V) due to low output from alternator; changed voltage regulator. Now runs about 13.5 volts. Bad battery is apparently main cause of alarm logic failures. Replaced both oil temp. senders. 2) Looked at wiring diagrams which led me to fuse C3 which was blown. Replaced it and things lit up. Shortly thereafter fuse C3 blew. 3) Removed seats and checked the condition of alarm logic box on driver's side. Disconnected airbag connectors on both sides. Replaced fuse C3. Everything worked. Put airbag connectors back together and everything still worked. 4) Removed headliner. 5) Put seats, etc. back in. Fuse C3 blew. 6) Bought PST2 laptop clone on eBay. Learned something about it and troubleshooting with it. Found out about Diagnostics Manual that was sitting right on my computer. Learned about IPAS codes which are required to activate and teach modules (e.g., "program" new key). Dealers are reluctant to give people their codes even after showing proof of ownership because they don't want to lose out on the money if people fix their own cars. There is also a security issue. But, there are dealers that will provide the codes. You just have to find one. 7) Replaced Passenger Compartment Sensor (senses presence of either kind of passenger - driver or passenger) and central locking switch. Fuse C3 blew. 8) Left front turn signal stopped working. Changed bulbs, worked on socket for about two hours. No help. Swapped sockets/lamps left to right. Problem followed socket/lamp. Right turn signal now not working. Ordered two new sockets. Got in car next morning and both turn signals were working and have continued to work ever since. No affect on Fuse C3. Sockets are cheap - $13 and are the major cause of turn signal failure. Turn signal lamps last longer than sockets. 9) Removed fuses D8 & D9 to isolate the removed PCM module from power. No help. So, almost a month later I am about $1200 (including $50 worth of 15 amp fuses :blush:) poorer and still have same problem. I am resisting the temptation to buy a new alarm logic module until I've done more testing. The modules aren't cheap, but not outrageous. The diagnostic manual has whole sets of troubleshooting sequences for each of the alarm module codes. Yesterday, I had alarm logic module codes 34,60,61,47,46,10 &11, I reset the codes. This morning I had just 47, 34, & 60. Later this morning I reset the codes, drove home from the store and still have no codes. I could go through the diagnostic procedure for, lets say, code 34. However, there are only two solutions for fixing a code 34. One is to replace passenger compartment sensor (already done) and repair wiring harness. So, I need to check wiring harness for problem and repair it - what wiring harness? The two that go to the alarm logic module or the one that goes to the passenger compartment sensor? For code 47, first check input signals from doors that are not locked. If PST2 indicates Driver's and Passenger's doors not locked (which mine did), check door locks. The following steps include removing connectors from door locks and from alarm logic module, checking continuity between terminals. This means taking door panels off (?) and front seat out. But, the only two options for repair are repair wiring harness or replace alarm module. What wiring harness? The diagnostics for code 60 are very clearly written but has lots of steps. Since I already know that the central locking switch is not working (but, it is good because its new (?), so I think its not working because fuse C3 is blown) I go to step 5, 6, and 7 or 8 which say to repair wiring harness or to step 9 which says to repair wiring harness and then maybe to step 10 which either takes us to check fuse C3 or repair wiring harness or replace alarm system control module. Step 11 is not feasible because during the few short times fuse C3 stayed closed long enough to lock the doors with the key fob, the doors locked. So, the door locks are OK. My conclusion is that I should check every wiring harness in the front of the car or replace the alarm system control module. Maybe I should just buy an alarm system control module. "Andraya, please ship alarm module". Mike

jp- I think there have been a couple of them and a lot of write-ups. With mine, the rod that goes across the headliner behind the sunroof was broken off on both sides. Right now, the thought of doing a sunroof delete is more appealing than doing a sunroof repair. I'll be driving the car all winter. With snow wheels/tires on, I can fit on the tracks of car wash without scraping the rims and will be able to get an underside cleaning once a week. Mike

jp Yea, but the most frustrating thing is not being able to lock the passenger door. I will check other fuses tomorrow that might control the locking mechanism in the passenger's door. One good thing to come out of the other job - stopping the rattling in the sunroof - its gone. Didn't fix anything. Took the headliner out and the noise went away. Next step, I'll remove all the rest of the sunroof assembly, replace the sunroof cover with a cf one and try to find a good used non-sunroof headliner or have one made from my old one. Mike

No, no evidence of there ever being dampness under there. The cable connector pins were all clean. The proper operation was restored after reconnecting the module to the cable. It was after reconnecting the airbag cable and a few of the other wires on the upper console and pushing all the cables back into the hole in the dash where the PCM used to be, that the problem was back and worse (the fuse D3 only used to blow when the button on the fob was pushed. Now it blows as soon as its installed (battery connected, no key in ignition). I still think its a wire associated with the PCM/Pioneer Stereo Navigation system, but, I figured out a 90% method for determining the fault. Take out all the fuses associated with items on the front cable assembly, put in a fresh D3 fuse, then put the other fuses back in one at a time until the fuse blows. I don't think its a problem with a logic device of any kind (unless its got a short inside or in a cable to/from it). I thinks its some wire with the insulation scraped off it, or somehow or other being shorted to ground. I'm hoping to have it fixed by Spring. Thanks, Mike