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Everything posted by Long Islander
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Last weekend, I participated in a PCA autocross, and once again experienced significant understeer in my 2001 C2. One of the instructors who had a 996 race car told me to have the front wheels aligned by a Porsche dealer to GT3 specifications, which should make them tilt inward more at the top and lessen, if not eliminate the under steer. Has anyone had this done? If so, what does it cost, and was the difference noticeable? On a related note, I left the PSM engaged the whole time, but this didn't do anything to elimiinate the understeer. Is it supposed to kick in only to prevent oversteer? One last thing. Just after the finish line, hard braking was called for, which resulted in plenty of front wheel lock up in my case. Isn't the ABS supposed to prevent lock up? How can I test if my ABS is working at all?
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windows down and doors open
Long Islander replied to timo996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I realised later on that I had pressed the car key in my pocket against the side of the chair I had sat in and the radio signals from the key activated the unlocking of the door and beacause the pressure was applied for longer than a few seconds the windows also came down You mean I can open the windows using my remote? I have a 2001 US version. What do you have? -
child/baby seat
Long Islander replied to skipp's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Congratulations. $800 for a Porsche seat? Yikes! I believe Britax makes the Porsche infant seat, so you can just buy that from BabiesRus or Buy Buy Baby. When our 4-year-old was an infant, I used a Graco infant carrier without the base (which didn't really fit) in our 911 coupe. It was a bit of a pain getting the infant carrier in there and then buckling the seat belt around it, so we hardly ever used our 911 as a family (still don't). If you can get an infant car seat whose base fits in and stays permanently buckled in (with the infant carrier/baby snapping in and out of the base), that should make it easier to get him/her in and out. The other problems with baby in 911 are: (1) you have to push the front passenger so far forward to accommodate the infant car seat that there's little leg room left for your adult passenger; and (2) a baby stroller won't fit in the front luggage compartment, so you can't stray too far from your car with baby when you arrive at your destination (unless you enjoy heavy lifting). Good luck. -
Exhaust tips
Long Islander replied to rval_1999's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Check out these 2002-2004 style double-tips at Automotion (the ones they call "Turbo"). They're supposed to fit 1999-2001 911's. http://www.automotion.com/productpage.aspx...port+Tail+Pipes -
Gas door won't stay open
Long Islander replied to Long Islander's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Help. Has anyone done this? I need some tips. I got stuck trying to remove the filler flap. The directions in the above link seem to indicate that I have to press on two tabs labeled A, toward the rear of the car and pull up on the filler flap. I tried this several times but the filler flap doesn't move at all. Meanwhile, when I got started, I noticed that a small piece of plastic that had been attached to the backside of the plastic hinge had broken off, so the spring had nothing to grab onto on the backside. So, there's nothing wrong with my spring -- I just need a new hinge. I also had no luck removing the hinge using a small screw driver instead of the "removal tool." I'd really like to avoid having to go to the dealer for this. -
I've never heard of a key being stuck in the ignition due to a dead battery. I thought the key insertion/removal was a purely mechanical process. Is your car Tiptronic, and if so, are you sure it's in Park? Is your steering wheel straight? Is the steering wheel stuck against the right or left side, locking it against the ignition lock? Try turning the steering wheel slightly to the left, with one hand while pulling on the key with your other hand. If that doesn't work, try the opposite.
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Ticking noise in roof
Long Islander replied to toddel68's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I'm not sure if I had the same thing or a slightly different version. I was getting a slight buzzing noise from the sunroof (when the roof was closed). When I pushed up on the back edge of the sunroof with my finger, the noise would stop. I then wiped the entire back edge of the sunroof opening with silicone on a rag after fully opening the roof. That took care of the noise. That was two years ago, and the noise hasn't come back. -
Nick, sorry to hear about this. Was the Boxster outside the garage with the doors unlocked? If so, that explains how they got into the garage -- they just used the remote in the Boxster. Otherwise, how'd they get into the garage? Now that they have your remote, you have to change it's code ASAP. Also, your roll-up door must be pretty quiet. Mine makes quite a racket, squeeking and groaning as it rolls up. My precautions: 1. Roll-up garage door is connected to alarm system. You have 30 seconds from when the door starts to roll up to turn off the alarm using the alarm touch pad inside the garage. This is also a good security device in case someone follows you home. Just hit the garage door button and sit in the car, and the alarm will trigger the siren and a call to the police in 30 seconds. 2. Door from garage to inside of house is locked and also connected to the alarm system. 3. House alarm is turned on whenever we're out of the house or in bed. 4. The one car (out of 3) that is always outside is locked and alarmed, so the garage door remote inside it isn't easily accessible. 5. All 3 cars have garage door remote built in, so they can't be easily swiped (like when the car is in the shop,etc.). 6. Spare car keys are locked in a safe.
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Durametric Code Reader
Long Islander replied to philhan's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Yes. The only codes it can not clear (at this time) is alarm codes. See their feature matrix here. Can it read your top speed? If it can, then I assume you can clear that as well. -
Thanks to the RennTech DIY instructions and others on this board, I bled my brake fluid today. The instructions were very helpful. Here are a few other tips I can pass along to anyone else who plans to do this. Drain tube: You should buy 2 feet of clear plastic tubing, 3/16" inner diameter, 5/16" outer diameter. The tubing needs to be clear so you can see if there are any air bubbles in the fluid that's being drained. Less than 2 feet will leave the end of the tube dangling, and you'll have to hold your drainage jar with one hand and the end of the tube with the other hand. Drain jar: Obtain a glass jar (tomato sauce or apple sauce jars are perfect) that has at least a 1/2 liter capacity and mark the level in advance for 250 ml and for 500 ml. Save the lid. Drill a 5/16" diamer hole in the lid. The drainage end of the drain tube will fit perfectly in the hole you drilled in the lid and you won't have to hold either one. Also, when disconnecting the tube from the nipple, the other end will just drain into the jar and you won't spill a drop of fluid anywhere. Turkey baster: The instructions have you using a turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir. Well, the turkey baster my wife gave me was way too wide at the tip to fit around the little pieces of plastic that blocked access to the bottom of the reservoir (yes, I did remove the screen). I'm not sure if they make smaller turkey basters, but the tip has to be thin enough to fit into a small slot at the side of the opening to the reservoir and get way down to the bottom. Instead of a turkey baster, what I did worked really well and was probably much quicker. I used a clean plastic pump from a liquid soap or lotion dispenser, with a flexible but stiff tube attached to the bottom. I was able to push the end of the tube down the side of the opening inside the brake fluid reservoir, and pump the brake fluid into an empty water bottle. Brake fluid: Have at least 2 liters of brake fluid available. I used all 2 liters. Oh, and BTW, the used brake fluid that came out of the car didn't look anything like the nice, clear slightly yellow ATE gold fluid that I put in. It was definitely time.
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Gas door won't stay open
Long Islander replied to Long Islander's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Thanks. Now that I've done the brake flush, I have another project to look forward to. -
Thanks to the RennTech DIY instructions and others on this board, I bled my brake fluid today. The instructions were very helpful. Here are a few other tips I can pass along to anyone else who plans to do this. Drain tube: You should buy 2 feet of clear plastic tubing, 3/16" inner diameter, 5/16" outer diameter. The tubing needs to be clear so you can see if there are any air bubbles in the fluid that's being drained. Less than 2 feet will leave the end of the tube dangling, and you'll have to hold your drainage jar with one hand and the end of the tube with the other hand. Drain jar: Obtain a glass jar (tomato sauce or apple sauce jars are perfect) that has at least a 1/2 liter capacity and mark the level in advance for 250 ml and for 500 ml. Save the lid. Drill a 5/16" diamer hole in the lid. The drainage end of the drain tube will fit perfectly in the hole you drilled in the lid and you won't have to hold either one. Also, when disconnecting the tube from the nipple, the other end will just drain into the jar and you won't spill a drop of fluid anywhere. Turkey baster: The instructions have you using a turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir. Well, the turkey baster my wife gave me was way too wide at the tip to fit around the little pieces of plastic that blocked access to the bottom of the reservoir (yes, I did remove the screen). I'm not sure if they make smaller turkey basters, but the tip has to be thin enough to fit into a small slot at the side of the opening to the reservoir and get way down to the bottom. Instead of a turkey baster, what I did worked really well and was probably much quicker. I used a clean plastic pump from a liquid soap or lotion dispenser, with a flexible but stiff tube attached to the bottom. I was able to push the end of the tube down the side of the opening inside the brake fluid reservoir, and pump the brake fluid into an empty water bottle. Brake fluid: Have at least 2 liters of brake fluid available. I used all 2 liters. Oh, and BTW, the used brake fluid that came out of the car didn't look anything like the nice, clear slightly yellow ATE gold fluid that I put in. It was definitely time.
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Shawn, many thanks. My thinking was that if not changing the brake fluid just deteriorates my braking performance, I should be able to tell when that is, so I could put off the brake fluid change until then. On the other hand, if moisture in the brake fluid is likely to harm the braking system, then I should change now it despite my low mileage (since moisture will creep in based on time rather than mileage). Any thoughts?
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FLAT TIRE
Long Islander replied to RIC480's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Are you sure they didn't put in a plug and a patch? I haven't heard of a tire being plugged for many years now. -
I'm going to take the plunge and change my brake fluid for the first time. I've read the instructions posted here and have a couple of questions. 1. Do I just loosen the bleeding screws with a metric socket wrench? 2. How long a bleed tube do I need, and what diameter (1/4", etc.)? 3. If I want to get someone to bleed the brakes using the brake pedal, at what stage do I do that? Any other tips? Also, do I really need to even do this? My car is 5 years old, but with only 4,800 miles. The brake pressure feels very solid, and the brake fluid, visible through the brake reservoir look perfectly clear and amber.
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I did this on my 2001 911 with tip. Nothing special about the tip other than removing and re-connecting the tip wires on the steering wheel. I used the Porsche connector and VW wires. The key to success is labeling the tips of the wires that have to be connected to the car, and soldering the VW wires rather than crimping them. Also, buy some friction tape to wrap around your VW wires, as shown in Tool Pants' photo. Good luck. Here's my parts list: Porsche parts: 999.650.056.40 (connector) 999.650.057.40 (cover) 993.552.573.01.01C (gasket for steering column) 996.613.219.00EAK (strg column stalk with OBC control) VW parts for OBC: 000.979.009 (wire, quantity, 3) 000.979.010 (wire, quantity, 2)
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Dead Battery
Long Islander replied to stsanford's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Forget that stupid thing. I bought a similar device and then returned it. The problem is anytime your battery drops to below 12V, it disconnects the electrical system, which means you have to press this button (mine came with a small remote) to start the car. Turns out , the voltage can very easily drop to below 12V, so this happens a lot. With me, it would happen when I programmed my automatic interior fan to circulate on my BMW on hot days. My solution was to get rid of this device and just stop using the automatic blower. In your case, you may just need to buy a new battery or find the source of your battery drain. Your battery shouldn't go dead after just 5 days -- 3-4 weeks maybe, but not 5 days. -
Dead Battery
Long Islander replied to stsanford's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
How old is your battery? Mine is just two years old and it wouldn't start the car (but not completely dead) after I left it sitting in the garage for 3 weeks. -
Store cars in the attic?
Long Islander replied to navin in KC's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Bill, It looks like your friend's garage is at least a 4-car garage, maybe even bigger. How many cars can he fit in there with the lift? -
3 Spoke vs. 4 Spoke wheel
Long Islander replied to AG996LV's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I switched from a 4-spoke to a 3-spoke, mainly because my 4-spoke had the vinyl airbag without the gold colored crest. I later learned that you can get a leather/gold crest airbag for a 4-spoke wheel from one of the European parts suppliers. The 3-spoke seems to have a thicker rim. Otherwise, it's the same diameter. -
Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. These instructions show how to install an Optima Group 34R battery in your Porsche Boxster or 996 using a plastic adapter plate. The cost of the materials (other than the Optima battery) should be under $20, and an hour or two of your time. You don't need to make any modifications to your car or to the Optima battery. All you need to do is to make an installation plate out of plastic, and then bolt the Optima battery to the plastic plate, and the plastic plate onto the original Porsche battery tray just like the original battery. Once the Optima battery is installed, you can easily remove it and re-install the original Porsche battery within a few minutes. Optima makes a great battery, but only in a limited number of sizes, none of which is an exact fit for a Porsche Boxster or 996. The Optima Group 34 battery is shorter (by about 2") and slightly taller than the standard group 91 battery found in most Boxsters and 996s. To install an Optima battery, you need to make adapter plate out of plastic. Dieters Motorsports (www.dietersmotorsports.com) has detailed instructions on how to install an Optima battery using a 1/4" thick aluminum plate and a longer positive battery cable. I thought Dieters Motorsports had a great idea, but it requires an aluminum plate to be custom-made by a machine shop and a longer positive battery cable. I asked a couple of machine shops about the cost of a piece of aluminum, and they quoted me between $130 and $190. I found that high-density polyethylene would be a great substitute and is very easy to cut and drill into, so you need to only buy a flat sheet of the polyethylene and do the drilling and cutting yourself. It is black with a wrinkled finish, so it looks like a lot of other plastic pieces that came with the car. I also found that 3/8" thickness works better because it fits more tightly under the tabs on the rear and driver's side of the Porsche battery tray. High-density polyethylene is both very rigid and very light, yet also resistant to battery acid (in case your old battery already spilled acid onto the battery tray). My installation enabled me to install an Optima Group 34R without replacing any battery cables. "R" stands for reversed positive and negative posts, which puts the positive post closer to the end of the positive cable. With the Group 34R, both cables just barely made it on my car (2001 911 C2). Had I used the regular Group 34 battery rather than the reversed-post group 34 battery, I'm not sure whether the cables would have been long to reach the battery posts. Other 996 owners have reported using a regular group 34 without having to replace any battery cables. In any event, the price of the Group 34 and 34R is the same - it's just that the 34R is a bit harder to find. I bought mine for $119 from an Interstate Battery distributor, who had several in stock. All Interstate Battery dealers carry Optima batteries, and practically every gas station in my area is an Interstate dealer, so you should be able to buy the 34R very easily no matter where you live. Interstate's web site (www.interstatebattery.com) allows you to do a zip code search for the nearest dealers. Materials Required: 3/8" high-density polyethylene: You will need a piece of 3/8" thick high density polyethylene, cut to 14 X 6-7/8". I used 14" X 6-3/4" because it was readily available, but the footprint of the Porsche battery is exactly 6-7/8" wide, so you would be better off with that size (I'm not sure 7" will fit, so you should check your battery tray width to see if it can accommodate a 7" wide plate). The 3/8" thickness was just right. A half inch thick piece would not have fit under the edges of the battery tray,and 1/4" would not be tight enough under the edges to prevent the battery and adapter plate from bouncing up and down. Also, 3/8" was thick enough to make the adapter plate very rigid. Locating a plastics manufacturer to sell you a small piece of polyethylene may prove to be a challenge. I was lucky as PlasTEAK (www.plasteak.com) happened to have just such a piece laying around, which they sold to me for $10. I also found that K-Mac Plastics (www.pbt-plastic-resin.com) will cut to size, but they may have a minimum order size. Otherwise,you can check your local yellow pages under "Plastics" and arts and crafts stores. Stainless steel hardware: I bought all the necessary nuts, bolts and washers for around $5 from West Marine. A good hardware store may have these as well. West Marine did not have 1-1/4" long screws of the type needed, so I bought 1-1/2" ones and cut them down with a hack saw. - four #10, phillips, flat head, 1-1/4" long screws - four flat washers 5/8" diameter (needs to fit over the #10 screws) - four #10 locking washers - four #10 cap nuts. Initial Preparation of Adapter Plate: 1. Using 1-1/2" (or wider) masking tape, tape all four edges of the adapter plate. This is so that you can easily see the drilling and cutting marks on the plate, which otherwise would be hard to mark and see on the black plastic. 2. Mark a 1/2" by 1/2" square at two of the short sides of the adapter plate, and cut away these squares. The diagram to the left shows in black the squares to be cut away. Adapter plate next to the Porsche battery tray after the holes have been drilled. 3. Take the adapter plate to the car. 4. Bring a skinny pen with you (I used a ball-point refill from a Cross pen so that my marks would be as precise as possible). Removing battery from car: 1. If you have a battery maintainer or trickle charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter, plug that in, as it will eliminate the need to re-program all your radio settings. 2. Open the front hood, and remove the battery compartment cover by turning the two thumb-screws and lifting out. You will now see the battery. Since you will need to stand in the front trunk, you may want to put down a towel or drop cloth to keep the trunk floor clean. 3. Standing in the trunk, remove the negative terminal cable. Next remove the positive terminal cable from the battery and wrap it in a towel. Finally, disconnect the vent tube and curl it up and place it out of the way (you won't be using this anymore). Move the positive and negative cables out of the way. Handle the positive cable especially carefully (i.e., don't let it touch any metal) if you have your car hooked up to a trickle charger. 4. Unbolt the battery hold-down clamp and set aside the bolt and the clamp. 5. Remove the battery by moving it forward and slightly to the passenger side. 6. Loosen bolt at the other end of the negative cable (the side farthest from the side that attaches to the battery) a bit so that the cable swivels easily. Follow the positive battery cable back to where it enters the car. You will notice a round black plastic cap that covers the other end. Pull this toward you with your hand, and underneath you will notice a nut. Loosen this with a socket wrench. If your car is connected to a battery charger at this time, be careful not to touch any metal while loosening the nut. Loosen the nut so that there is some freedom of movement at the end of the cable. 7. Don't unbolt the battery tray just yet. Marking Optima Battery Location in Car: 1. Place the plastic battery adapter plate inside the battery tray and position it all the way to the back and to the driver's side. Make sure it is pushed all the way in. 2. Take the Optima battery and place it on the adapter plate, with the positive terminal to the passenger side. Make sure the adapter plate did not move around when you put the battery in place. If so, push the adapter plate toward the back and driver's side again. Push the Optima battery all the way to the back. 3. Move the battery toward the passenger side of the car just enough so that the positive cable fits over the positive terminal of the battery. Move the battery to the driver's side while removing the slack from the positive cable. Don't tighten the positive cable to the post. Swivel the negative cable and stretch it so that it reaches the negative battery post and fit it over the negative terminal. Make sure your battery tray is pushed as far to the rear of the car and as far to the driver's side as possible. Make sure you can still remove both battery cables without having to move the battery around. 4. Using your skinny pen, mark all around the edges of the battery. 5. Remove the battery cables (remember to wrap the positive cable in a towel again). 6. Remove the battery from the car. 7. Remove the battery tray from the car, by unbolting the four nuts that hold it in place. Drilling Holes in the Adapter Plate: 1. Take the adapter plate and Optima battery to your workbench. 2. Measure the distance from the left side (passenger side) of the battery tray to the center of the bolt hole for the hold-down that holds the original battery in place (this should be the third hole from the right, or driver's side). 3. Place the adapter plate inside the Porsche battery tray, making sure you push it all the way to the right and rear of the battery tray. Mark the location for the hole in the adapter plate that is equal to the distance you just measured. 4. Drill a hole in the adapter plate that is wide enough to accommodate the original bolt. 5. Once the hole is drilled, test to make sure the adapter plate bolts into the Porsche battery tray. Note: you will not use the battery hold-down with the Optima battery, just the bolt. 6. Take the adapter plate out of the battery tray and place the Optima battery on top of the adapter plate, using the marks that you made to properly locate it on the plate. 7. Take one of your stainless steel flat washers and locate it above one of the holes on the bottom of the Optima battery. Center two of the washers over the holes on one side of the battery, and mark with your skinny pen the exact center of the hole on the battery plate. Before you mark the other side, you may want to drill the holes on one side and bolt the battery to the mounting plate (I drilled all four holes first, and found they didn't all line up, so I spent a lot of time making the holes larger to make them all line up). 8. If you use a 5/32" drill bit, the screws will actually thread their way through the plastic. If you want them to slide through, use a larger bit (maybe a 3/16" bit). You will also have to countersink the flat head screws so they are flush with the bottom of the plastic plate. If you don't have a countersinking drill bit, you will need to use a drill bit as large as the head of the screw, and then drill into the center of the small hole just deep enough to get the screw head not to protrude. This takes some patience and may take a few tries to get it just right. 9. Bolt one side of the battery down (positive side away from the notched edge), then repeat the marking and drilling process. 10. Bolt the battery to the adapter plate. At left is a photo of the battery bolted to the adapter plate. 11. You're now ready to bolt the battery tray into car Back to the Car: 1. Take the Porsche battery tray, Optima battery (already bolted to the adapter plate) and battery tray back to the car. 2. Bolt the Porsche battery tray back into the car. 3. Place the adapter plate with Optima battery bolted to it into the battery tray, and bolt it down with the original bolt that was previously used to bolt the hold-down clamp over the original battery. You will not use the hold-down clamp, but hold onto it in case you need it in the future. 4. Connect the positive cable to the positive terminal and tighten. 5. Tighten up the other end of the positive cable, and snap the plastic cap back over the end nut. 6. Connect the negative cable to the negative terminal and tighten, then tighten the other end of the negative cable. 7. As you can see from the photo to the left, I removed the carrying handle for the Optima battery. To do this, raise one end of the handle as high as it will go and then lower the end until you can slide it past the groove that holds it in, then out. Then slide the other end of the carrying handle out.