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Long Islander

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Everything posted by Long Islander

  1. Long Islander
    I have a 2001 C2 with a Becker Silverstone 2660 6-CD changer (same as Porsche CDC3). I recorded a custom-mix CD (from music ripped in WAV format) in WAV format on a CD-R, and it doesn't play at all. The other ripping options I have are Windows Media Audio, Windows Media Pro, Windows Media Audio Lossless, Windows Media Audio (Variable Bit Rate). Does anyone know which of these will play?
  2. Long Islander
    I guess it's the 17mm one I was thinking of as bolt-on.
  3. Long Islander
    I believe the Porsche spacers are bolt on, rather than bolt through. That means you use your standard lug bolts to bolt the spacer onto your hub, then you use lug NUTS to bolt your wheels onto the spacer. In terms of weight, you've now added the weight of 5 lug nuts plus 5 studs to each wheel. That's why I went with the bolt-through version sold by H&R. BTW, the bolt-through spacers came with one screw that holds the spacer onto your hub, so you don't have to worry about it falling off when someone removes your wheel, not knowing you have a spacer behind it.
  4. Long Islander
    7mm is 7mm, regardless of Boxster vs. 996, and the bolt circles and patterns are the same. That being said, I wouldn't bother with 7mm as you won't notice the difference visually or handling-wise. Anything less than 15mm is not worth the bother. I installed 15mm bolt-through H&R spacers on the front of my 2001 996. I bought chrome bolts from Boothe Design that are 47mm vs. 30mm long, which is what comes with the car (I also replaced the rear ones with standard length chrome lug bolts). I highly recommend both the chrome lug bolts and the H&R spacer. Both are very high quality.
  5. Long Islander
    If it's just a little crack, I would re-dye it. I had Color Plus custom mix some leather dye for me, and I'm very happy with the results. With black seats, no need for custom mix. I dyed the entire seat, using their brush that leaves no brush strokes. You can easily do it without removing the seat. Just make sure you cover up all around. Or, you can just put some dye on a cotton cloth and rub it over the cracked areas, and then wipe off the excess. The cracks will be filled in and you won't even notice them anymore. This should take no more than 5 minutes.
  6. Long Islander
    You might want to take a look at this web site: http://www.hoen-usa.com/fog.htm Only $29.95 per pair for H7s.
  7. Long Islander
    Sounds like the rattle I had some years back. If I pressed my finger up against the back rear edge of the sunroof, the noise would go away. I spayed some silicone or WD40 (can't remember which) on a towel and ran it along the back edge of the sunroof frame (back rubber part). The noise went away and never came back. You might need to do a couple of passes at it. Good luck.
  8. Long Islander
    I hope I'm not too late to this thread, but aren't all these "swirl removal" products merely silicone-based fillers that don't remove the scratches and swirls, but just fill them in so that you don't notice them? The significance of that is that the silicone eventually washes away, and your scratches and swirls come back. In addition, I spoke to the manufacturer of Rejex, and they said that any silicone-based polishes limit the ability of Rejex to stick to your car, so your protection is not as long lasting. They recommended either Menzerna Final Polish II or 3M Imperial Glaze to polish and remove light scratches. I've been using Menzerna for some time now, and I like the results. It has a mild abrasive that's just enough to get out minor surface scratches in the clearcoat without any silicones.
  9. Long Islander
    Well, yes and no. You could buy this Homelink auto-dimming mirror with the Homelink remote, but they didn't bother to make an adapter that let's you directly attach it to a Porsche 996 mirror. http://www.aaaremotes.com/aurevimiwiho.html At least, that was what they told me when I called them about a year ago. You could just remove your Porsche mirror and stick their mount just below it on your windshield, but that won't look too great. You could go to an auto glass shop and see if they can remove the Porsche mirror mount, but I'd ask first before I bought this. Let us know what you find/decide.
  10. Long Islander
    CAUTION! Make sure you get the correct "Carrera" emblem. Starting in model year 2002, Porsche started installing the Carrera emblem lower down (close to the bumper), where the engine lid is curved upward. As a consequence, the top of the "C" in Carrera is concave. If you get that emblem, the top of the C will stick up from the engine lid when you place it in your original location. There's a thread on this from 2005 when I discovered this myself (after torturing myself). You need to get part no. 996-559-237-07-4PU (for silver). If the parts guy says that has been superceded by part no. 996-559-237-10-4PU, go to another parts guy. If you really can't find the 07-04PU part, then you'll need to stick the new one on where the 2002+ models have it.
  11. Long Islander
    Nice upgrade, in both cases. What was the difference in ride quality when you switched to the 18" wheels?
  12. Long Islander
    I'm not aware of any such thing as an exterior motion detector, but when I bought my 2001 coupe (7 years ago), I had a Stinger Doubleguard shock sensor and Directed Electronics 504m tilt sensor installed by a local car stereo shop. Both are made by Directed Electronics, the manufacturer of Viper car alarms (www.directed.com). Both were devices meant to integrate easily with factory alarms, but of course, nothing is so easy. One of them (I think it was the tilt sensor) required at least three return trips to the shop to get sorted out, and only after I got someone from DE on the phone with my installer (who was a very experienced and talented guy). My advice would be to pick a shop that's close to home, because it's likely to take several return trips to them before it works right.
  13. Long Islander
    I doubt they'll fit. I have the standard 17" wheels with 205/55 tires in the front, and with 15mm spacers, they barely clear when turned full lock in either direction. You might be able to get 225/50's on there, but your best bet is to check with a place like Wheel Enhancement or Tire Rack.
  14. Long Islander
    I have a 2001 C2 with standard 17" tires, and the car plows heavily, especially when accelerating. I think Porsche was so concerned about tail-happy handling, that they tuned the suspension for a lot of understeer. I was told you could correct this problem by having a Porsche dealer do a GT2 (or maybe it was GT3) alignment, but I haven't done that.
  15. Long Islander
    It seems finding a small piece of high density polyethylene plastic without buying a large sheet of it is proving difficult for many. I spoke with someone at Plastic Supply Inc. (800-832-6774), www.plastic-supply.com, and they are willing to sell small remnant pieces for a nominal sum and mail it out. You can also try doing a search on the internet for Starboard, Seaboard or Marineboard.
  16. Long Islander
    Don't even bother with 7mm -- you won't notice the difference. Go with 15mm front from H&R. I did this on my 17" stock wheels and the difference is noticeable. I left the rear wheels as is.
  17. Long Islander
    I've found that DOT 4 brake fluid is hard to come by locally in my area, so I order ATE Super Gold from www.cdoc.com. The only other place I've found locally that has DOT 4, of course, is the Porsche dealer, whose prices are much higher and parts dept hours pretty inconvenient (closed weekends).
  18. Long Islander
    Optima batteries come with a 72 month warranty. I have one that's three years old, and I thought there was something wrong with the battery because it went dead in the winter. I took the battery out and had an Interstate battery dealer (a local gas station) test it. They said it was fine and there was no charge. Haven't had a problem since (must have just been lack of charge).
  19. Long Islander
    Thanks Jeff you confirmed what I thought. I figured that they would turn it on for me at no additional cost since they were doing the 60k maint. and were going to have to hook it up to the tester anyway. I really just wanted it turned on so I could do the hack in the future. Will If all you want is the outside temp display, just having it turned on will achieve that. Of course, if you want full OBC functionality with original look, the 4-stalk conversion is a nice hack. I did it several years ago, when I first got my 2001. One thing I would mention is that you should definitely solder your connections and cover then with heat-shrink tubing when you make up your wiring harness -- rather than crimp-on connectors. Also, if you wrap your wiring harness in friction tape (vs. electrical tape), you'll have a very professional wiring harness.
  20. Long Islander
    I did the same thing on my 996 coupe several years ago. Note that I have the base stereo with no door speakers, so I just replaced my front and rear 4" speakers. There are no adapters. The problem is that the Porsche speakers' mounting screw holes are not at standard locations for speakers. What you have to do is to remove your original speakers and cut the plastic frames and use them as mounting frames. Leave the speaker connector plug in place (that way, your new speakers will just plug right into to the original wires). Solder wires from your new speakers onto the connector plug (make sure polarity is consistent). Then glue the new speakers into the "frames." Support the "frames" from the sides with something and let the weight of the speaker dangle down, allowing the glue to dry overnight (silicone will work well). Finally, screw your new speakers (which have been glued onto the frames) onto the inside of the speaker grills. Plug your original speaker wires back together and re-mount the speakers/grills into the openings. Your original speaker grills will remain completely stock, so should something go wrong with your speakers, you can just re-do this whole operation. BTW, Crutchfield has some Kenwood 4" speakers that have excellent specs. I have older versions of these and they sound great and have high efficiency, which is important since the base stereo doesn't have too much power. Good luck.
  21. Long Islander
    My fav five: Garage door opener remote installation in overhead lighting console Painted bumperettes (black rubber from the factory on pre-2002) Chrome lug bolts from Ralph Boothe Non-smoker kit OBC installation with stalk
  22. Long Islander
    Do you have door speakers or not?
  23. Long Islander
    I have graphite grey, and I got the black non-smoker kit. It looks very nice since it matches the black trim around the center of the dash (around the radio and climate controls). It has a nice rubbery texture.
  24. Long Islander
    Has anyone bought a Homelink visor kit and taken it apart to install above the overhead console? Used Homelink devices are often available on Ebay, such as this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...2177&rd=1,1 The appearance of the unit shouldn't matter, since I would just install 3 small black momentary switches and a small red LED in the overhead console, with the Homelink electronic box above the overhead console. But I'm not so sure how easy it would be to take the Homelink unit apart. Anyone?
  25. Long Islander
    I tapped into the switched 12V source in the overhead console area so running wires was not an issue. Easy install. Wouldn't you be better off with an unswitched 12V source so you can open the door when you're in the car before you turn the ignition key? Is there an unswitched power source in the overhead console?
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