Richard Hamilton

It stops the alarm siren from going off, as there is a backup battery in the siren. If the battery is disconnected without the ignition being on, the alarm thinks someone is trying to steal it!! That's the way it works on UK cars anyway.

If cruise was an available option, I'm sure it could be retrofitted. I've never done a GT3, but it should be the same as an 02-04 Carrera. I don't have a wiring diagram specific to the GT3, so I can't check. Use the same method as the later Boxster/997 - wiring between the stalk and cluster only (ie no connections to the DME) and you will need to get the Cluster AND DME coded with a PST2. I'll PM you some details.

Well, I think I've worked out what was wrong, for those who are interested. When the battery was disconnected the alarm controle module went back to the default settings. On UK cars we have an alarm siren and tilt sensor, and the default settings for these devices is "active". I have deactivated these, so now I am back to normal operation. The only snag is that there must be something wrong with either the tilt sensor or siren. Oh, well. Do I worry about it? I was blissfully ignorant about it before................

1998 Tiptronic Coupe RoW (UK). The battery only just started the car last night, so I fitted a new one this morning - Bosch Silver 75Ah. I used the normal procedure of switching the ignition on before disconnecting the battery. When I reconnected it there was a single chirp from the alarm siren about 10 seconds after I connected the negative terminal. Now, every time I remove the key from the ignition I get a single chirp from the alarm siren after a 10 second delay. Then, when I lock the car I get a double-chirp from the siren, but the LED single-flashes every 2 second or so (as it should). There are NO faults shown a PST2 test. I have to say this is the first time I have ever heard the alarm siren. On the occasions that I have left the oddments cover open and locked the car, I got a single-beep from the car horn - not this loud chirp from the siren. I have disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes and reconnected it. Still the same, and no faults in the memory. I KNOW this is going to drive me crazy, so before I disconnect the alarm siren by unplugging it, has anyone else experienced this problem? My initial thought is that something in the alarm control module has been corrupted during the battery change. edit: It just occured to me - Could it be the backup battery in the siren?

You have PM. If that doesn't work, the Radio Code is sometimes stored in the DME of the vehicle, but you need a PST2 to read it.

Funnily enough I have been looking into doing this on my 996. It looks a very straightforward wiring job, but I am coming to the conclusion that it will be too expensive to use new parts. Over here (in the UK) a new control unit is £200, and the sensors are £65 each. With a few other bits and pieces it totals £500, roughly $950.

It's a transmission fault, so it shouldn't give you a CEL.

You are absolutely right Loren, but my brother had a problem with his multi-function switch but the code didn't appear at first. It was a good couple of weeks before the code registered, when the problem got much worse. However, it's worth having the codes read if you can get it done for free. I wish UK parts stores offered that service.

If there is a fault in the tiptronic control unit the 4th gear light will flash - that's why the dealer asked the question. From what you say, it sounds like you might have a problem with the multi-function switch on the gearbox. The contacts in the switch are prone to breaking up. You really need to connect to a PST2 and compare the lever position with the input signals to the tiptronic unit. When you move the lever from N to D the PST2 should display N > D. If there is a bad contact it will show N > Z > D. There is a fault code for the multi-function switch, but the switch can play up a bit for a while before the fault is recorded in memory. Another possibility, although very unlikely, is a break in one of the wires between the tiptronic unit and the instrument cluster. I had this once when retrofitting cruise to a tiptronic Boxster.

GOB, I felt the same way as you - I didn't want to spend a lot of money on a pair of genuine PSE's or the aftermarket equivalents. I bought a set of nearly new mufflers on eBay, and modified them as shown in the top photo by welding in 1 inch diameter stainless steel tube. This was the way that Porsche did it on their "first generation" PSE, but they put a valve in the tube to switch the bypass on and off. Because I was able to buy the new mufflers very cheaply I figured that if I didn't like the effect I could always switch them back. I was told that the "Mark 1" PSE was only suitable for 3.4 litre engines, but I don't know why. I originally saw the modification from a couple of guys on the PCGB forum who had bought modified systems from a company in Germany called Oettle ( http://www.oettle-autodienst.de ). They have a soundfile on the site which you might want to listen to: http://www.oettle-autodienst.de/996soundfile.wmv - Oettle also sell the systems on eBay, but they say that they are suitable for 3.4 and 3.6. My concern was that they might be "boomy" at motorway cruising speed, and also attract attention from my neighbours, as I live in a quiet dead-end road. I needn't have worried. Up to about 2000 rpm they are only marginally louder than standard, and at cruising speed they are as quiet as standard (inside the car). The real bonus is that there is a delicious roar when accelerating between about 2500 and 5000 rpm. On your scale, I guess maybe a 50 or 60 between these engine speeds. The later Porsche PSE had the bypass as shown in the lower photo, but again it had a butterfly valve to shut it on and off. This picture was posted by one of the guys on the PCGB forum, and I havn't heard it myself, but he says it has the same effect. Again I was told that the "Mark 2" PSE is suitable for both 3.4 and 3.6 engines. The cost of mine was a total of £150 ($280) including the mufflers, but I was lucky. I also needed a new set of clamps, as the old ones were rusted solid and I had to cut them off. It was definitely worth the effort though.

Here's the "Mk1" PSE mod I did on mine: And this is the "Mk2" PSE mod: Some of us don't subscribe to Rennlist. There are only so many Porsche forums you can make time for - so we make sure we make time for the best! ;) :renntech:

Cheryl The part numbers for front and rear disks are the same for USA and RoW, so the answer to your question is yes they will fit. I haven't any experience of them, so maybe someone else could comment on how good they are.

Check the coil packs too.

There aren't any power connections involved in the OBC retrofit. The stalk needs a ground connection, which it then connects to the appropriate pins on the cluster plug. If you want some simplified wiring diagrams for your MY drop me an email or PM. You only need the power connection for cruise.

Here is the 111 Point Inspection sheet used by UK Porsche Dealers prior to issuing an extended warranty. 111_point_porsche_inspection.pdf

Here is a quote from the 2002 SIT for the C2: "The camshaft adjuster is based on theprinciple of a vane cell adjuster. The control unit determines the current position of thecamshaft in relation to the crankshaft (actual angle) using the engine speed and hall sensor signal. The position control in the control unit receives the desired angle via the programmed map values (engine speed, load, engine temperature). If the desired angle and actual angle differ, a controller in the Motronic actuates the 4-way proportioning valve to the desired position." I don't know if this is the kind of information you are looking for, but you can download the complete article from here: https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/sit/e.../1_2002_911.pdf Alternatively, go to: https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/index.jsp and select Great Britain (not USA)/Training Documents, and select 911

I made up the 'fake' PSE bypass silencers last week and fitted them. You won't be disappointed with the sound.

I'd love to see a photo of that too. Did you use an external GPS antenna, or does it work OK down there without?

I can't get that link to work, but I think they must be these ones: http://www.oettle-autodienst.de/ (Go to Downloads/Auspuffinfo). Two or three guys on the PCGB forum have bought them and are very pleased with the result. The original PSE had a silencer bypass pipe with a valve to open or close the bypass. The Oettle system is doing the same job without the valve. I have just bought a pair of standard mufflers on eBay, and am about to do this myself. It will probably take me a couple of weeks to get around to it, but here are a couple of photos of what I plan to do. Porsche PSE: Planned Mods:

I can't comment on 2 or 3, but 1 is normal. There is a small fan on the back of the AC control unit, which blows air over the temperature sensor. The fan runs for a few minutes after the ignition is switched off. These fans are prone to failing, which makes temperature control erratic, but if yours is running that's good!

I have looked at the wiring diagram, and everything is connected to the alarm control unit - door locks, interior lights, door switches, monitoring sensors etc, etc, etc. I can't find a wiring diagram for a car without an alarm so I suspect that you have the control unit, but maybe not all the connections. It is under the driver's seat in a LHD car, or under the passenger seat in yours. Obviously your car has some of the functions - central locking, for example, but if the control unit is the same then you can probably add some of the functions, but you may have to add sensors, etc. Unfortunately, there is only one way to find out - try it. If you want the wiring diagrams for the alarm, PM me. edit: Looking at the PET For your MY there are 3 control units shown: 986 618 260 00 - Option M531 central locking but no alarm 986 618 260 00 - Option M534 with alarm 986 618 260 01 - Option M535 with alarm 315MHz If yours is the same part number as the alarm option, maybe you could retrofit parts, but like I say, there's only one way to find out. It would probably be more cost-effective to get an aftermarket remote alarm fitted though.

As I understand it, it is only the valve block orifices and soleniods that are specific to Porsche. If you don't have a problem with the valve block it should be relatively straightforward to repair by any transmission centre familiar with ZF. I have the general spare parts lists for the ZF 5HP 19 transmission in pdf format which I downloaded from the US ZF web site a while ago. If it would help, email me if you would like a copy.

These guys are in Belgium, but do an exchange program: http://www.am-tc.be/porsche.shtml Edit: It is a ZF transmission, so you might find a more local company that could overhaul it. It was also used by Audi and BMW with minor differences.

Yes it is possible, but it is not easy. See here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=16939 I have done it, but compared to an eGas car it is a pain to do.