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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. The code is usually (but not always) within 2 digits of the decoder. Try 4323, 4322, 4320 and 4319. You get locked out after 3 tries, and have to wait a while before you can try again.
  2. Official Porsche Centre. I have heard good things about Noel at Cool-It. If Marque 21 haven't got any diagnostic gear, you might want to try JGM in Bournemouth (http://www.jmgarage.co.uk/) as they have a very good reputation. too
  3. You must be in the UK, because you have the tilt sensor and alarm siren. The tilt sensors are notorious for filling up with water, and that's why they now fit a different one. The replacement goes under the left hand seat next to the alarm control module. I would say that the OPC is correct, as it happened on mine. Just like you, I started to get double-siren blips, rather than double-beeps. You could prove the point by disconnecting the tilt sensor. Before you disconnect it (or the battery), SWITCH THE IGNITION ON. That will stop the siren going off (it has a backup battery inside it). Also, think about finding yourself a good independent Porsche specialist in your area - you will save a fortune on this sort of job.
  4. The engine number is here. Mine was difficult to see after 80000 miles!
  5. I don't know about US cars, but on UK cars they are only connected on one side. Porsche usually fit bulbs to both sides, but only one works.
  6. There is a control module for the seat heating on the underside of each seat. It might be worth trying to switch them side-to-side.986_Seat_Heating_Control_Module.pdf
  7. Joe The easiest way to do it is to take the MAF off with the connector attached. Once it is out of the air box you can turn it to get at the clip on the back. HTH Richard
  8. ECs "old" 996TT is up for sale here: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/219311.htm
  9. J It's MUCH more likely to be the ballast resistor, as that's what controls the low fan speed. There was a guy on PCGB with exactly the same problem.
  10. AFAIK the shape of the outside of the speaker grilles is the same for the dash and side speakers, it's just the rear side of the speaker that is angled differently depending on location. I'm sure it is that way in the coupe, but not sure about the cab. If they are the same, then this might help: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15407
  11. Just a note to add that I spend a couple of hours fitting a nice pair of Pioneer TS-E6996 to the storage box: At last - some bass!
  12. The Valeo looks good. It isn't silicone though - shame.
  13. I get mine from Auto Performance Products: http://www.a-pp.com/ - they are about £30+VAT+delivery for the pair. TBH, I just got two straight blades, which I don't have a problem with, but they do have a curved blade as well.
  14. I use the PIAA silicone wiper blades. Not sure if they are available in the US, but they work much better than the standard ones. Much smoother operation, eliminating any judder. After a while they build up a layer on the scren which gives a 'Rain-X' effect. Pricy, but worth it.
  15. Loren is correct that the PST2 should show if it is the throttle potentiometer at the pedal end, or the actuator at the throttle body which is the problem. Unfortunately, I'm quite a long way from you otherwise I would have been happy to help. If you need an independent specialist, you could try Parr at Crawley, West Sussex. I've also heard very good things about Addspeed Engineering at Horsham - probably cheaper than Parr too. Addspeed: 01403 255616 Parr: 01293 537911
  16. Also check the anti-roll (sway) bar drop links. Any play in one of the ball joints gets amplified really well. The rattle in the engine bay might be the airbox - the grommets in the body often come out, and the pin on the bottom of the airbox rattles against the metal.
  17. It looks that way to me too. It doesn't look like it will interfere with anything else. BTW, I think there is a small blade fuse on the back of the main PCM unit too.
  18. Check the indicator bulbs. If one of them blows it puts less load on the indicator relay, and they tend to flash faster.
  19. Or you can see here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=67481 for the fuse layout. ;) ;)
  20. Russ USA and RoW M030 Sports suspension are different. They use different springs, shockers and anti-roll bars. The USA M030 is softer than RoW, and I think that's why the alignment for USA standard (series) and sports suspension are the same. The RoW M030 is 10mm lower than the RoW standard suspension, hence it has different alignment settings. Sounds like the alignment people have used the wrong settings, confusing the "S" for sport.
  21. I'm sure they know, but they have to run the "Sports Car Handover" routine in the Special Functions menu. Good luck.
  22. I think Izzy is suggesting that the alarm system, which controls the interior lights, may be in energy-saving "transit" mode. If, as he suggests, the interior lights do not come on when you unlock the car with the remote, then this is likely to be the problem. Unfortunately, you need a PST2 and go through the handover programming routine to set the alarm system to normal mode.
  23. 996-618-051-02 does not seem to be a valid number. If I were you I wouldn't risk it - try and find one with the matching part number. Just looked at the Price Search here - That number seems to be for a "Litronic Control Uni", priced at $0.03!!
  24. The pre-facelift 996 Carreras use the ZF tiptronic transmission - post-facelifts were MB. 996 Carrera manual transmissions were all made by Getrag.
  25. BS11 is Bridge Plug 11, one of the bridge plugs on the relay carrier. There are several bridge plugs there with multi-pin connections for speed signal, brake switch, etc. 17/C8 is the "grid reference" to where the wire goes - in this case Sheet 17, gridref C8. It would probably help to have the sheets showing the destinations of the wires you are trying to trace. I'll PM you.
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