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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. The manual makes it sound a lot more complicated than it actually is. The only thing is to have the correct fitting for the valve. It's like a Schraeder-type fitting, but there was an adapter in the Snap=On kit that I borrowed from a friend. It's a fairly universal fitting, so I would expect there to ba an adapter in most kits. Rightly or wrongly I re-used the cap. It has a rubber seal in there that looked in good shape in my case, and it is there as a double-safety feature should the valve itself leak.
  2. You can only get black ones as blanks. I looked a while ago and found that the savannah "blank grilles" come complete with speakers!
  3. On my car, which has TC, the manual says to use the PST2 to bleed the ABD circuit after a fluid change, which it says is a separate circuit. Looking at the schematic for the brake circuit, it doesn't show a separate circuit, so it's a bit of a mystery to me. I do it all the same, just to be sure. I'm probably wasting my time, but its fun to control the pump with the PST2! ;)
  4. If you only need a spare key for emergencies, why not just get a 'service' key or non-remote key? It will still need the immobiliser transponder coding, but is a lot cheaper than a remote key. That's what I did - seemd a shame to have a £200 ($400?) key sitting in a drawer, just in case. My service key has been sitting there for over 3 years and I've never had the occasion to use it!
  5. Don't buy the wire and terminals separately. Buy 8 VW 000.979.009 Repair wires, as they are the correct length, and have the terminals already crimped on. You will not need the wire to OBC Stalk Connector 6. Although it is shown on the wiring diagram, it doesn't appear to do anything. I will PM you with a simple wiring diagram to make it easier. The 4 way stalks I have bought have come with the OBC cap. You can take the Wiper and Turn Signal caps off your old stalk and reuse them on the new one. You should only need the cruise cap, part number 996.613.505.10.A05
  6. The cruse control circuit is built into the instrument cluster (in your case). It controls the throttle electronically in combination with the DME (ECU). The controls are all there - you just need to wire up the stalk, and have the systems activated with the PST2.
  7. Theres a very long thread on cruise retrofit in the 986 DIY section. For a 2003, I suggest you start reading it from here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=43243
  8. I found that the plastic "hinges" on mine squeaked - especially just before it reached the fully up position. Sounded horrible. Some silicone spray lube and a couple of up/down operations to work it in cured the problem.
  9. Thanks for the words of caution Loren. I'm let to believe from a post by member RFM that cruise for 987/997 can be coded with the PIWIS: Posted by: RFM Apr 16 2007, 08:32 AM Hi There are no problems for European 987 and 997 to retrofit cruise control. All you need are: 1 stalk, 1 cover ( under ) steering column, 1 short electric cable ( only for the very first models ) and 2 screws for the fixation of the stalk. Programming with PIWIS tester is needed, max. labour time 0 h 30. Piece of cake.
  10. Yes, it includes the wiring harness, screws, etc.
  11. 997 044 903 00 It's in the Electrical Section of the Tequipment Catalogue.
  12. No I haven't, but I got the details from recommendations from other PCGB members who speak highly of them.
  13. I kinda assumed you had the ground wire connected.... You couls always use another rocker switch to connect ground to pins 21 and 23. Take a look at page 82 of the '03 996 owners manual which shows the operation. You need to use the Lever Up control to change menu levels.
  14. Try Autostrasse at Coggleshall - 01376 562922 or HP Motorsports in Hainault - 020 8500 2510
  15. The PET actually lists a cruise retrofit kit for the 987/997.
  16. OBC retrofits to the dot matrix cluster using a switch work fine, but that's when it is to an existing cluster, and you get the old-type display. The pin connections on the wiring diagrams for the early and late clusters are: Early Cluster: White plug #II Pin 20 - Lever up - stalk pin 2 Pin 21 - Lever down - stalk pin 3 Pin 22 - Lever front - stalk pin 4 Pin 25 - Lever rear - stalk pin 5 Late Cluster: Grey plug C Pin 21 - Lever front - stalk pin 4 Pin 22 - Lever down - stalk pin 3 Pin 23 - Lever up - stalk pin 2 Pin 24 - Lever rear - stalk pin 5 Pin 25 - Lever inside - stalk pin 6 Edit: Pin 1 on the stalk goes to ground. Therefore, you have your switch connected to the correct pins - I just don't think you have enough controls to navigate the menus on the new cluster. Pin 25 on the new cluster has always been a mystery to me. The stalks are all the same - new or old cluster - but the wiring diagram shows this extra connection. It doesn't seem to be connected inside the stalk though. If anyone else works out what this is for, let me know and put me out of my misery. :huh:
  17. Or look in the DIY Maintenance section? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13652 :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
  18. Also, you can only get vehicle-specific wiring looms. You have to quote the VIN when ordering and they are made for your car. They are also horrendously expensive.
  19. It sounds serious to me. Getting it up on a lift makes the job of checking the level much easier. Like RFM, I think it might be worth changing the ATF. I'm no expert on tiptronic transmissions, but it could be clutches, valves, torque converter....... I use an independent specialist (my best friend, as it happens!) - I wouldn't pay Porsche rates, especially on a 9 year old car, but we are lucky to have lots of choice of specialists over here.
  20. Is this a new problem, or has it always done it? There is always a certain amount of slippage until the torque converter lockup clutch locks. The obvious thing would be to check the ATF level first. Izzy Sanchez did an excellent write-up in the Maintenance Section which shows how to do it.
  21. Maybe I should have said this before, but I'm not quite sure what model you have when you say 1985.5. The 111.01 DME was used in 944's from 1982-1985. It looks like the S2 was released in 1985, and 944.618.121.04 DME was used on that car until 1987 on engine type M44.07/08. You can download older (but very useful) pdf versions of the PET by clicking the Links button at the top of the page.
  22. The PET only shows one DME for a US spec 1985 944. The original part number was 944.618.111.01. This was superceded by 944.618.111.AX. Edit: I think 944.618.121.02 is for the 944S2. HTH.
  23. I would also be very cautious. We get one or two Bosch KTS650 units (the hardware on which the PIWIS is based) appearing on eBay UK every week. Always from sellers with zero feedback, a description and photo taken straight from the catalogue, and usually a suspiciously low price. 9/10 are scams.
  24. Paul - the viscosity at 100C is shown as 11.4 cSt which is quite a bit down on the Mobil 1 spec sheet of 14.3 cSt. From your past experience, is this typical?
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