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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. Maurice - I have previously asked both for a part number, but haven't had a reply. One is a member on this forum, so hopefully they will see this and post. They both got them from Maplins in the UK, which is something like Radio Shack in the US. Jpflip - The same microswitch senses if the door is open or closed, so if it is sticking then it would cause all the problems described. Whilst the erratic window movement might be the regulator, this wouldn't cause the interior lights to stay on, or prevent the car from locking.
  2. It won't be one of the switches in the door handle (which are replaceable). The symptoms all point to the switch which detects that the door is closed. This switch is inside the door lock assembly, and operates on a cam on the door latch. It is possible to strip down the door lock and replace the microswitch. Porsche only sell the complete assembly. I have never done it myself, but I know two people who have. I am told the switches are a standard size.
  3. It is one of the microswitches inside the door lock assembly.
  4. Thanks Mike. I've had it up on a lift and checked underneath with a pry bar for movement in the bushings, and there isn't anything noticeable. It isn't the clonk or rattle of a bush or joint. Perhaps 'bang/crash' was the wrong wording to use. It isn't a mechanical noise like that - it's just the harshness, or lack of 'give'. It was the same with my (Euro) M030 996 C2. On smooth roads it isn't an issue, so I think it's a case of 'they all do that'. I would just like to improve it. Maybe coilovers are the only answer, unless anyone has found a non-adjustable damper which gives the same result..........
  5. The snow we had in January, combined with the years of neglect, really caused havoc on the roads. There are potholes everywhere. Most local authorities are in the process of patching them now, but that's what it is - patching. Now we have raised bumps instead of hollow bumps! I would like to achieve is to take the bang/crash out of the ride, without spending a huge amount. A KW V3 or PSS10 kit over here is around £2600 (c $4400), plus fitting and a full alignment, and it seems a bit of an overkill for what I really want to do, which is to have a softer bump setting. Doubtless it would be an improvement, but at that sort of price I'll live with it.
  6. An independent Porsche specialist should also be able to get the IPAS codes for you. You will need to provide a copy of your V5C and a letter giving them authorisation to request the codes on your behalf, and the reason (ie key programming).
  7. I think most would agree that the standard suspension on the Turbo gives a fairly harsh ride. Yes, I realise it's a sports car, but the roads around my area are dreadful, and it is getting annoying. My car has done around 68,000 miles, so the shocks are probably tired by now, although there are no leaks or noises from them (as far as I can tell). I really don't want to lower the car, as we have so many "sleeping policemen" (speed bumps) around here it's a joke. Also, I don't want the major expense of something like a PSS10 coilover kit - which would lower the car anyway. What I would really like is adjustable shock absorbers to replace the standard units. Unless anyone knows different, no one seems to make them. So do you see my dilemma? I would like to try replacing the shocks, but with what? How about Bilstein B6 Sports? Anyone changed to those on their Turbo? I don't want to make it ride like a Rolls Royce - I just want to take the edge of the harshness, and make it a bit more 'compliant' over bumpy surfaces. Any advice, opinion, or comments would be appreciated, especially if any one has been through this and got a result.
  8. Doh! You said flat black - I just misread. Dyslexia rules - KO? Just feel behind the spokes with your fingers and you will feel the ridges or not.
  9. Maybe I've confused things. When you say 'flat back' do you mean smooth faces? The hollow spoke TurboIIs have a smooth face, and the solid spoke have two ridges in them. What option code wheels are they? If they are M415, then they are solid spokes. If they are a different code, then the only way to be sure would be to take them off and check the part numbers cast on the back.
  10. The very early 996 Turbos (like mine) were fitted with solid spoke TurboII wheels as standard, and hollow spokes as an option. The hollow spokes became standard not long after.
  11. Try Porshtek in Leeds. I haven't used them myself, but have heard only good things about them. http://www.porschtek.co.uk/
  12. Sounds like a loose spark plug to me.
  13. Version 3 software is the latest for PCM2.0. When you insert a map CD it asks if you want to update, but I don't think it is a software update. I believe it is updating the Points of Interest.
  14. The codes are often recorded in the DME Vehicle Data, which can be read with a PST2 or PIWIS tester. Drop me a PM if you are near me. Otherwise, as Loren says, an OPC should be able to get them for you. Some charge, some don't.
  15. Next to the search box at the top right of every page is a small link to the 'advanced search' page. See here for instructions (11th topic down): http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=help
  16. A friend of mine and I did a 996 buyer's checklist for the Porsche Club GB forum which might be useful for you. Bear in mind that it is for RHD UK cars, but the main body of the checklist still applies. HTH. http://www.porscheclubgb.org/clientftp/Register/996/tec_buyers_checklist.pdf
  17. One of the guys on a UK forum had a similar problem with the DME fuse which kept blowing. He tracked it down to chafed cables in the wiring to one of the Variocam solenoids. Just thought I would put this forward as a suggestion, as I haven't heard of it happening before.
  18. We lowered my brother's 2004 Cayenne Turbo using the calibration routine with a PIWIS tester. We found that we could lower it 45mm without any problems. Total cost £0.00, but you have to have access to a PIWIS tester....... The way to achieve it is during calibration you have to measure the vehicle height on each side using specific measuring points, front and rear, and enter these figures into the PIWIS. The trick is to ADD 45mm to each figure, to fool the computer is 45mm higher than it actually. When it resets, it settles 45mm lower.
  19. Both could be caused by incorrect ATF level. There is a lot more which should be considered before replacing the transmission. A solenoid could be causing P0732, and the Torque converter clutch could be the cause of P0740. The common factor on the diagnosis sheets is the ATF level though. Beaten to it by Loren, as usual!
  20. Thanks Loren. Just one more thing (for now!) and sorry to keep hassling you. When I click Board Menu > Members, I get the Online User list. Is it me and my browser again?
  21. Loren An observation and a couple of questions: I note that the member's location is no longer shown below their avatar. I found this particularly useful. I thought this would be a good opportunity to tidy up my profile and blog. What is the Member Status feature, and how should it be used? Is it possible to add a "my last 10 posts" link in my Board Panel? Thanks
  22. Thanks Loren - that did the trick. Sorry to have disturbed what must be a busy day for you!
  23. Loren First of all, great job on the new forum software. I really like it. Naturally there are likely to be one or two teething troubles, and I found what I think might be one... When I am viewing New Content, and click the link to 'mark it as read', IE displays the message "Internet Explorer can't display the web page". HTH
  24. 49 (993). Two others since then and more planned. It's a slippery slope.....
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