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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. Richard Hamilton
    Only two choices, I'm afraid: Default (Current Blue) Tanned Hide (Beige) is quite nice The others are a bit 'girly' except Ashes to Ashen (Black) which looks more difficult to read.
  2. Richard Hamilton
    I really don't know. The pressure sensor has two outputs - one for the actual pressure reading for the gauge, and one for the warning light. Perhaps the one for the warning light is failing during higher speed cornering, giving you the "indicator failure" message, whilst the computer knows the actual oil pressure is OK. Like I say, the sensor is a relatively inexpensive item, and would be my first choice of where to start. The alternative would be to start checking the continuity of wiring, or it might be a fault in the instrument cluster, but these would be a nightmare.
  3. Richard Hamilton
    I would say it's a DIY job. The sensor has a threaded piece on the bottom which screws into the cylinder head. It's a bit tricky to get to, but not impossible if you are patient. If I were you I would change the sensor, as it is relatively inexpensive. If that doesn't cure it I would start worrying that there is something wrong with the oil pickup in the 'sump'.
  4. Richard Hamilton
    Just to write a conclusion to this, we fitted a new throttle body today, and it fixed the problem completely. We then stripped down the old unit, and found that the connectors to the actuator motor were slightly corroded. We cleaned them up, but didn't go to the trouble of swapping it back. I get the feeling it would work, but didn't want the hassle of checking. The new throttle body was 140.00GBP, which is amazing compared to the MAF I bought recently at 149.00GBP. I have no idea how Porsche calculate their prices - the throttle body must cost at least twice as much to make as a MAF! And they can't sell anything like the same quantity. There doesn't seem to be any logic to Porsche spare parts prices at all.
  5. Richard Hamilton
    There are instructions in the workshop manual. If you send me an email I could attach them to a reply. There are 5 pages.
  6. Richard Hamilton
    Have you ever taken the idle control valve off one of these? I know it has been done on non-eGas cars, but I'd be interested to know if there is anything servicable/cleanable inside before we go delving into it. edit: Looking at it again, the device must be the throttle actuator itself - there doesn't seem to be an idle control valve.
  7. Richard Hamilton
    This is my brother's 1999 C4 Tiptronic Coupe (UK Car). The problem started a couple of days ago. When he switched on the ignition there was a strange, continuous, clicking noise from the engine bay, and the engine cranked but wouldn't start. After disconnecting the battery and leaving it for an hour, the engine fired up straight away and runs perfectly. This morning the clicking appeared again, but it wasn't continuous, and the car started and runs fine. Now when you switch on the ignition it may or may not happen - it seems to be random. The noise seems to come from a device on the side of the throttle body, shown by the red arrow in the picture. We have checked the connection to this device. There are no faults in the fault memory. The best way to describe the noise is similar to a relay clicking on and off, but a bit louder - almost a buzzing/flapping sound. Anyone had the same problem?
  8. Richard Hamilton
    :oops: Of course! :rolleyes:
  9. Richard Hamilton
    It is on the cylinder head pointing upwards. As you look at the engine it is on the right hand (driver's) side, pointing vertically upwards, about 2/3 of the way towards the back of the engine compartment. item 32 in the picture.
  10. Richard Hamilton
    There are two switches on the clutch pedal. One is the start inhibit switch, which must be working otherwise the car wouldn't start. The other is the cruise switch. In the picture the two switches look different (16 & 17), but I don't know which is which. You need to check that they both work when the pedal is depressed. It would also be worth checking that you are getting 12v +ve to the stalk - the black wire going to pin 2 of the 4-way plug.
  11. Richard Hamilton
    I have a wiring diagram which shows DME7.2 on a sheet labelled "Carrera (996) Sheet 18 Model 99/00" - I was thinking that maybe some 99 C2's might be 7.2, but maybe the sheet is intended for the 1999 C4.
  12. Richard Hamilton
    That's a relief! I have used the Input signals for eGas cars, and it is a very useful test - especially when you get wires the wrong way around!! There is a wire from the cruise actuator to the diagnostic plug on early cars, but I have no idea what it could be for.
  13. Richard Hamilton
    Going back to tmc's problem, have you checked that the brake lights work (as suggested by Tool Pants)? Also, the cruise will not engage if the clutch cruise switch is operated. If it is secured the same way as the brake switch, then it can slip in the mounting bracket and cause the switch not to operate. Another thought - and this is a long shot - are we sure your car is not eGas? I suppose if it was a very late build in 1999 it might be DME7.2 and we are all barking up the wrong tree. Check your option sticker for (M)620 - if it has then you have egas, and there is no mechanical actuator.
  14. Richard Hamilton
    That's interesting. I don't see those options in the Input Signals on mine. I'll have to check the wiring. :unsure:
  15. Richard Hamilton
    Yes, Chris - Alarm/Coding/Country Coding.
  16. Richard Hamilton
    I tried coding my 996 from "GB with Sunroof" to "US with Sunroof" in the country coding to see if it had the opposite effect on my UK car. Didn't work - I got a fault - "wrong door lock". There are loads of country code options, so maybe it would be a question of trying a few different ones to see if you can find one that works.
  17. Richard Hamilton
    Hi Chris It is 986321 for RoW Boxster S's. Have a look in the Alarm Coding with the PST2, and you'll see options for RoW/Japan etc. It might be worth trying to select RoW and see if you get the extra features. The only snag to this might be that the remotes operate on a different frequency, but it is definitely worth a shot.
  18. Richard Hamilton
    Yes, I meant the small 4-way connector that connects the stalk to the loom. The actuator looks like this: Bear in mind that this is for a RHD car so has an additional mounting bracket. In a RHD car it fits like this: The wiring is temporary in this photo, you should have a plug on the end which looks like this: Here's a simplified wiring diagram: It would be a hard job to disturb the plug connection. Other than that, I can only suggest checking all the other connections. I'm not sure if the PST2 will show the input signals on the cruise control module - maybe Loren could comment here.
  19. Richard Hamilton
    Do you have another remote key? Maybe take the battery out the suspect key and use the other one for a while. At least it would tell you if the fault is with the key remote or the alarm control unit. If that doesn't work, you need to get it checked with a PST2 to see if there are any faults stored in the memory.
  20. Richard Hamilton
    Chris On an '03 you only have to make a connection between the fuse box and the stalk, and the stalk to the cluster. No connections to the motronic are needed. edit: I have PM'd you a wiring diagram.
  21. Richard Hamilton
    On UK spec cars you can raise the windows (and close the sunroof) during locking by pressing and holding the remote button. Also you can open the windows when unlocking by holding the button. However, I would have thought that if you do this then the car would auto-lock after the set time if you don't open a door.
  22. Richard Hamilton
    Here's a Quick Start Guide I made a while ago: PST2_Quick_Start.pdf And here's how to change units: Unit_Setting.pdf
  23. Richard Hamilton
    Sorry, been on holiday and just got back. I know it sounds obvious, but have you checked fuse B7? That's the power supply for the cruise. Also, chech that the 4-way connector is in the right way round - it is polarised, but not very well.
  24. Richard Hamilton
    I tapped into the cigarette lighter for a switched supply for my speed camera detector - before I knew about the phone prep connector. The nice thing about connecting to the lighter is that the supply is held on when you switch off the ignition, and switched off when you remove the key. Is this the same with the phone prep connector?
  25. Richard Hamilton
    I suppose my question is WHY? Or rather, wouldn't you be better to leave the switches active on the wheel, and add an extra switch by the lever? My old 993 Tip S had the best arrangement with buttons on the wheel, and the lever slid into a "manual" gate. You could shift with either the switch or the lever. At first, I found the 996 arrangement (with just wheel switches) a bit frustrating. For example, when pulling away from a junction in first you invariably want to hit second while the wheel is turning. I found that the way to overcome this was to flick the lever into Auto and back. This makes the upshift but holds it in second. Hope this helps.
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