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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. Well, by the sound of your username, you might be on the other side of the world to me. However, if you are close by (and believe me, stranger things have happened) I'd be happy to do the same. Meantime, I'll drop you a PM.
  2. I think that the spring rates are different for manual and tiptronic, probably due to the extra weight of the transmission. That's the only reason I can think of anyway.
  3. No, I haven't tracked it at all (yet). I used to get about 12,000 miles from a pair of rears on my '98 C2, so maybe that's a useful comparison for you, although I ran Michelins and Pirellis on my C2. I always keep a good check on the alignment, and stick to the factory recommended specs. I hear that the Contis wear quite quickly on the Turbo, but I stuck with them as the fronts were like new after the 7000 miles, and I wanted to get more use out of them. I'm not a believer of mix-and-match on these cars. Next time, I'll replace them all with something different, but I don't know what yet. I should point out that I'm in the UK, so the conditions are probably a bit different - we don't have so many straight roads over here!
  4. Could be too much toe in, or a combination of too much toe and not enough negative camber. The tyres should wear evenly if it it set up to the factory specs. I just changed my rears (Conti SC2s) after 7000 miles, and they were worn evenly across the tread. An alignment is only as good as the operator. Try another shop.
  5. Come on guys, give him a break - this isn't Rennlist or 6Speed! :rolleyes: The answer to your question is 1.25 litres / 1.33 quarts.
  6. The climate control sytem uses the output from that sensor. If you have an early car (pre-facelift) you can have the OBC activated, and it will display the outside air temperature. If you do a search here you will also find how to retrofit the complete OBC system. A very satisfying hack. Edit: 3 simultaneous posts!!
  7. 700rpm give or take 40rpm. If it's a UK car, you might not get a CEL if there is a fault. Get an indy to do a diagnostic check - it's the only way to tell for sure.
  8. I don't know what code reader gave you C0460, but 4460 is the Porsche code which has the description "Pressure Sensor". The diagnostic sheets for 4460 refer specifically to the brake switch, and give this priority in the diagnostic process. Take a look at this thread: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=40297&amp...60&start=10 Pick it up from about half way down the page, and read it to the result in the last-but-one post.
  9. This fault (4460 - Pressure Sensor) is often caused by a faulty brake switch, or the brake switch not being adjusted properly. I don't think you can purchase the pressure sensor separately, so you have to buy a complete ABS pump ($$$$). If it isn't the brake light switch, I would suggest checking the connector on the pressure sensor.
  10. Here's how to enter the codes: PCM1_security_codes.pdf
  11. Being a '99 your car may have been subjected to the W103 Service Action, which was a repair or replacement to the engine deck lid due to corrosion. You might want to check if your maintenance book was stamped, and when, and if so see if you have any comeback on the dealer on the quality of their paintwork.
  12. That normally causes it to unlock immediately after locking. I haven't heard of it doing it the other way round. mdhorn - can you lock the car at all? If so, you could test the horn beeps by leaving the oddments compartment open in the centre console. Also, check the red LED in the centre of the dash to see if it single or double-flashes once it has locked. Whatever happens, I agree with Loren that you need to gat a diagnostic check done.
  13. Here's a wiring diagram I did for Tim which I extracted from the 2009 997TT diagram, in case it is of use to anyone else. I don't know if the front control unit will need coding to give an output for the LED control units, but I think it unlikely. This is untested, so "e&oe". 997TT_Front_LED_Units.pdf
  14. I just thought that it might be an easy way for him to check the wiring without removing anything. It would be an easy way to check if everything is connected properly as it will give a visual display of the state of each switch and be able to see not only that they all operate in the correct sense, but that two aren't operating at the same time. We all know that this hack works, so it's my suspicion that something isn't wired correctly, or the stalk is faulty.
  15. Try getting it hooked up to a PIWIS/PST2/Durametric tester. This will allow you to read the input signals from each movement direction of the stalk.
  16. Just search +P1123 +P1125 here, and I think you'll find your answer. Nine times out of ten it's the MAF. Cleaning it only works if it's dirty.
  17. Any idea what this device actually does? It looks like it just goes in the connection to the manifold air pressure sensor, so I guess it just fools the DME into thinking that the boost pressure is lower than it actually is. It seems like a simple idea, but what's the downside to this?
  18. If you aren't changing it, you can clean it in place. Just put a rag underneath to catch the excess cleaner. Strange that you are struggling to unclip it though. I think there are two types of clip, but it is usually fairly obvious once you get it in your hands. Edit: this shows the early MAF, where you just squeeze the connector, but the later one is a bit more tricky.
  19. I always undo the two screws and lift the MAF out of the housing before unplugging the connector. It means you can see the clip, which can be difficult with it in place (especially on a 996 C4).
  20. Try calling Gerard Mahoney or Gil Keane at Satnavshop in Birmingham: 0121 773 7000. They have adapted Opel 2009 UK maps to run on PCM1 at a much lower cost than the latest PCM1 maps from Porsche.
  21. If you are local to me I'd be happy to take a look. Drop me a PM. If not, try and get hold of a hardware manual for your laptop. Sometimes there are DIP switches on the motherboard you can select to override the BIOS password. However, the sort of message you are getting sounds like your hard disk drive may be bad.
  22. Well, it seems to have been a simple fix. A clip had come off, and one of the pressure hoses was loose on the intake manifold distributor. Popped it back on, and it all seems OK now (fingers crossed!)
  23. I assume you are considering buying one, and I agree with Loren - they are all about the same as far as reliability goes. What you really need to decide is what model you want to drive, and more particularly how it drives. That's what's different. IMHO a basic C2 is the purest Porsche driving experience in the range, and as the range progresses each model becomes heavier and slower until you get to the GT3. That's not to say they are worse to drive, it's just that they are different. C4 gives you the security of 4WD, and the C4S is reckoned to be the best looking 996. The GT3 is the rawest, and the Turbo is just plain explosive. They are all very different, and you need to look at and drive a few to see what's right for you.
  24. The picture you posted is of the Variocam Solenoid Valve connector, so you are looking at the correct connector. As Loren says, extremely odd that the fault is on both banks.
  25. I'm not sure I can help much, but connextor X59 is a 21 pin plug/socket, located near to the DME control unit in the rear trunk. I got this from sheet 23 of the wiring diagrams, which shows the grid location of all the connectors.
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