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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. Get a cylinder leakage test done, which will give a good indication of the state of the rings and valve seals.
  2. Most likely it will also need rings at 100,000 miles. The Nikasil bores don't tend to wear. As has been noted, valve guides are the other common wear item at that mileage, most people would go for a top end rebuild, but if it was me I would spend the extra and check out the bottom end. Very unlikely to be worn, but new bearing shells and seals would be a wise investment. IMO. As has been said, check out impactbumpers.com
  3. You don't use keys to remove PCM1. Unclip the two switch panels either side of the unit, by levering up from the bottom edge with a butter knife or similar. When you get them off you will see a sprung catch on either side of the unit, which release it from the frame.
  4. Sounds very odd. Do both doors exhibit the same behaviour?
  5. Here's a buyer's checklist we did for PCGB a couple of years ago: http://www.porscheclubgb.org/clientftp/Register/996/tec_buyers_checklist.pdf Hope you find it useful.
  6. I agree with what you say, but what I find difficult to understand is that Porsche will supply gaskets and seals for a 1960's Sportmatic transmission, but not a 2005 Tiptronic. Go figure. Or maybe we just have to wait for the 996 to reach classic status. Could be some while..... ;)
  7. I had the same issue with mine. My indy stripped it and fitted new gaskets, which he got from a friendly Mercedes dealer who let him surf the parts program. The box ix based on the MB722.6 unit. The only one he couldn't get was the one for the transfer case, which is specific to Porsche. Being "old school" he simply made one.
  8. WOW!! Original clutch! All I can say is that you surely have great mechanical sympathy for the car, and I mean that in a highly complimentary way.
  9. I'm not a fan of the look, to be honest. I can't help with a value, I'm afraid, but I expect the modifications would restrict the number of potential buyers. Generally speaking, originality is King when it comes to Porsches. Gemballa is an acquired taste IMO, and not for me.
  10. Nobody has said it yet - "Slow in, fast out".
  11. I don't think the UBOX2 cable will access all control modules. You will be able to access some, but not all. You need a Porsche-specific cable, especially for the earlier cars (986/996 etc).
  12. Check the pins on the KTS-card. They are very fine, and can get bent easily.
  13. Check the connections against my diagram here:
  14. Is the 0.2 amps with the front compartment light on? The drain should be around 0.04 amps with everything off, but if the light is on that would account for the difference. You can get the battery load tested at a good tyre & battery place, and if it checks out then I would agree with Loren and start with the ignition switch. Also check that it is dry under the passenger seat (RHD car) as that is where the alarm control unit is fixed. Edit: You can stop the siren going off when you disconnect the battery by switching on the ignition and leaving the key in that position.
  15. It is from the Porsche PET parts program. You can download PDF's from the Porsche web site. http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/originalparts/originalpartscatalogue/
  16. The sensor is right behind the oil filter:
  17. It is listed in Electrical Equipment>Control Units (Illustration 901-03). Part Number 996.618.210.02
  18. ABS diagnosis can certainly be done with the Porsche 9288 Tester (Bosch KTS300 "Hammer") and with the PST2. I think that cbr786's problem is that the L-line diagnostic connection, which is used in ABS diagnosis, may not be present in the cable. The DME uses the K-line, hence he can read the modules which use K-line, but not those which use the Porsche-specific L-line.
  19. Are you using a genuine PST2 with a genuine cable? Some of the adapter-type cables are not wired correctly.
  20. If it isn't showing a Nav Software Version, then you likely have a problem with the navigation drive itself. The PCM unit is not communicating with the navigation drive. You can check the connections, but it is most likely the drive has gon bad.
  21. You need to get it checked by someone with a Porsche Tester. It should show up any faults in the alarm control module, which contains the immobiliser. Try Addspeed at Horsham, or there is a new Indy near Gatwick called NineExcellence.
  22. I think that Pelican Parts sell them, and there is a DIY on their site also. It is a standard Bosch part, if you have a local Bosch distributor. It is available from Porsche, but it is twice the price. Edit: Bosch Part number: F 00M 145 225 (Replaces F 00M 145 350). Porsche Part No: 000.043.206.37. Pelican DIY here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-996-997-forum/408495-alternator-repair-regulator-replacement.html
  23. He is correct. The alarm module can only be coded with an immobiliser code once. Therefore, unless you know this code it is useless, and the only way of finding it is from the Porsche IPAS system, using the donor vehicle VIN. You then need the IPAS codes for your car, so that the DME can be set to the same immobiliser code as the alarm module. The IPAS system does not store the 24-digit codes for the key remotes. Unless you have those codes from your keys, then they cannot be programmed to the donor alarm module. Any new remotes you buy come with the 24-digit code on the bar code label attached to them. Knowing this, and the appropriate IPAS codes, they can be programmed to any 986/996. ETA: you may have trouble obtaining IPAS codes from a vehicle you do not own, for obvious reasons.
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