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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. I think you'll find the contacts are easy to see. I changed the indicator/main beam stalk on mine last week (again - long story) and the contacts are exposed, and easy to get to. The contacts do tend to suffer, as there is no relay, and they take the full load. Slightly off topic, I ended up with new stalks on both sides. The main beam one is worse still, as those contacts take the full load of the headlights. I fitted one of the J West relay kits to preserve the life, and it does improve the lights too.
  2. Is the noise coming from the passenger side dash vent? That's where the interior temperature sensor is located, and there is a small fan which blows air over it. A diagnostic check should show up any faults in the control system.
  3. You don't give a model or year, which would help, but here is the diagnostic socket wiring for DME5.2.2. Likely one of the orange/blue wires has become disconnected somewhere. Edit: No - you shouldn't join the K lines.
  4. If you are trying to get it going without the need for programming, it isn't just a key set you would need. You would need a matching key set, alarm control module and DME. You would be better to order a new key from the dealer, who will order it against your specific VIN. This will get the correct key blade for the car. Then they would have to program the alarm module to recognise the immobiliser pill and radio remote in the new key. I am sure it would work out a whole lot cheaper than fitting a load of second hand bits. As for the mechanicals, it sounds like you have a good plan. Fix any visible damage, clean it up to remove the sand, a major service and thorough check-over.
  5. The one on the left of your photo is for valve timing, and the one on the right is for valve lift. You don't need to take any special precautions when removing them. When fitting the timing solenoid, make sure the groove in the valve locates in the dowel pin on the head. The valve lift solenoid has a spring on the end, so you need to make sure it comes out with the solenoid, and fish it out if it gets left behind. When replacing, it deosn't have a location pin, so make sure it is orientated so that the plug connector is the right way up.
  6. I think it looks great. The only thing I don't like are the new 'corporate' badges on the rear. De-badging would be the first option box I would tick, should I be lucky enough to be in that position. Natural evolution:
  7. On the Turbo, the reversing light switch is on the base of the selector. It is part of the multi-function switch, and can't be changed separately. As far as I know, there is no relay.
  8. There are 5 separate switches inside the door lock assembly, and Porsche only sell the complete lock. The switches are like the broken one in the photo, and that was an open/close switch IIRC. If you are going to try a repair, all I can say is that you will have to improvise, I'm afraid. I don't know of a write-up, but if you are successful, get your camera out, and post some pics!
  9. Check that the spark plugs are tight. They make a chirping noise if one comes loose. Do a seach here for 'chirp' or 'chirping' and you will fing a video of the sound. Here it is:
  10. I guess it must do, if they installed the fuel map on yours, but the documentation doesn't say so. X51 maps aren't listed for DME5.2.2 (non-eGas) either. I think it must be an oversight in the manual.
  11. You would need the DME programming code to change the fuel map. I did it on my Turbo, and you have to enter the code to access that part of the PIWIS program. I did check on-line at PIWIS TSI, and it still shows the same fuel map list for DME7.2. I was surprised that it wasn't listed, as neither the X51 kit for 3.4's or 3.6's contains a replacement DME. The instructions I have for the 3.6 X51 kit show flashing the fuel map with PIWIS, and I would have thought it would be the same for 3.4's.
  12. Jumped the gun again.... My bad. The X51 map is on the PIWIS for DME7.8, but I can't see it listed for DME7.2.
  13. All the fuel maps are stored on the PIWIS/PST2. You just select the map you want to program the DME with.
  14. Check the load ratings on the Falkens. The ones on offer this side of the pond are a much lower load rating than th P-approved tyres. I use Yokohama Advan Sport V103's on mine, and am very pleased with them. I have done around 8000 miles on them, and they still have 5mm of tread left. I got through 2 pairs of Contis on the rear in the same distance.
  15. A double-beep from the alarm horn means there is a system fault. If it were an open compartment it would be a single-beep. I think investigating the alarm fault should be your priority, and agree with Loren that a check with a Porsche tester should show what's going on. It will save a lot of trial and error.
  16. I assume it is a '99 C2 (mechanical throttle). The throttle position sensor is held onto the side of the throttle body with 2 screws. As far as I know there isn't any special procedure or setup. Are you sure you didn't disturb one of the ABS sensors when you disconnected the brake wear sensors? The plugs are next to each other. Front: Rear:
  17. The snag with that is that you would need the IPAS programming codes (or at least the VIN and a friendly dealer) of the donor car in order to be able to reprogram it with the immobiliser code and fuel map using a PIWIS tester. If the dealer can access both the immobiliser and DME, and have entered the immo code in the immobiliser, then they should be able to enter the same code into the DME. I'm very surprised they can't figure it out, i.e. why the DME isn't communicating with the immobiliser.
  18. Sorry. I misunderstood your post (#32) when you said they still can not talk to the DME. Ignore what I said.
  19. I don't see how they could possibly charge you if it didn't fix the problem. Can they connect to the DME with the PIWIS? Reason I ask is that someone I know had a similar problem with a 996 a couple of months ago. We tracked it down to a bad connection on the K-line which connects the alarm module to the DME. There is a plug and socket in the left hand rear footwell (RHD car), and one of the pins wasn't making a proper connection in the socket. We could read the alarm module with the PIWIS, but not the DME. It uses this connection for the immobiliser.
  20. The alarm control unit can only be programmed with an immobilser code once. It cannot be changed with a Porsche tester. The DME could be reprogrammed with the immobiliser code from the donor car. However, you may have a problem programming your original keys to the donor alarm module. Best bet would be to bite the bullet, and get a new alarm module. They should be able to read out the key data from the old unit, and program it into the new one.
  21. My brother had a very similar thing with his Cayenne Turbo. In his case, it was well worn front tyres, and nearly new rear ones. New tyres fixed it.
  22. It might just be a bad connection to the solenoid coil, or the coil itself. (ie you may not need the complete valve). You should also check the cables to the solenoid, as I have heard of a couple of cases where they have chafed through. The coil can be changed relatively easily from the outside (if you know what you are doing) but the valve is under the cam covers, so more tricky. I'm surprised your indy hasn't told you all this.
  23. It isn't listed on the PET. If it is correct, get a part number and post it here - a lot of people would be interested.
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